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Squeal Coming From Under Seat Of A Gt6000


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#16 aaronsGT OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 09:45 PM

Hoping someone will see this. So I put the new solenoid on and still won't start. I have 12v on the lug on the solenoid from the battery. Its a 4 post solenoid. I sanded the frame and wire where bit the ground bolts to frame under the solenoid. There is another ground wire grounding there also. The other small wire attaching to the other post only gets 12v when I disconnect the ground wire from the other small post. I have tried starting with that ground wire disconnected and still won't start. Could I have gotten a bad solenoid? I haven't tried a screw driver jumping top 2 post because I did that before and it worked so I know starter is good. I can't get 12v on the starter post of the solenoid.

#17 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 09:56 PM

Can you take a picture of the solenoid and label the terminals / rephrase the symptoms so its easier to follow and help?

#18 aaronsGT OFFLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2014 - 08:46 AM

Sorry can't get photo.  There a 2 top terminals, one has the battery and another wire to the ignition bolted to it, the other is the wire to the starter.  There are 2 short terminals, the one of the same side with the battery is a ground connection.  The other short terminal on the starter lug side is the wire from the ignition to activate the solenoid.  My digital multimeter reads 12v at the wire from the ignition to the solenoid that activates the solenoid, however, the solenoid does not activate.  This morning I used a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery to the small connection on the solenoid that activates the solenoid and the starter activates.  I put the old solenoid back on and got the same results, so now I know it wasn't the solenoid.  I'm thinking its the ignition switch now.



#19 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2014 - 11:48 AM

If you have 12 v at the short stud that activates it, and a decent ground, you should be all systems go.
Having no voltage at the activation lug OR a bad ground (remember, this doesn't ground thru the base at all) is what one would expect... I ant think of a situation where both proper voltage and good ground would exist and not have good things happen on a known good solenoid.

#20 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2014 - 07:18 PM

I think what you really need is a three terminal solenoid. As I remember it the Four terminal solenoids were designed to work in line with something else and not go to ground. The three terminal solenoids are grounded through the frame of the solenoid. These are the ones I end up using all the time. 


Edited by Cvans, August 14, 2014 - 07:18 PM.


#21 aaronsGT OFFLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2014 - 07:06 AM

Well I started checking the PTO switch and brake/clutch switch. I ended up getting it to fire with old solenoid. I also adjusted the plate that pushes the button on the brake/ clutch switch. So possibly bad contact at switch that wasn't letting enough amps through. So pay to disconnect all safety switches first. On my model the wire from the S on the ignition goes through the PTO switch and then the brakes switch before the solenoid.
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#22 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2014 - 07:10 AM

Safety switches, while very necessary... Can also cause great difficulties.
So, you had intermittent or low voltage at the start pin on the solenoid?

#23 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2014 - 07:14 AM

Safety switches, while very necessary... Can also cause great difficulties.
So, you had intermittent or low voltage at the start pin on the solenoid?

You said it all there! "TEMPORARY" bypass can find the switch causing the issue, but needs to be fixed!



#24 aaronsGT OFFLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2014 - 10:04 AM

It must have been A bad connection because the wire at the solenoid to activate the solenoid showed 12v but wouldn't activate the starter. I found the solenoid was OK by taking a wire straight from +side of battery to the solenoid activation post and the started turned. I havent bypassed any switches. I see the importance of them. I learned a lot as this was my first attempt at something like this.
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#25 aaronsGT OFFLINE  

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Posted August 15, 2014 - 10:10 AM

Now I just have to replace the fuel line, put the tank rear fender and seat back on and then just wait for 2 deck lift parts to come next week before I can put it up for sale.
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#26 aaronsGT OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 08:56 AM

So I started up the mower. Started right up. Carb needs cleaned, no biggie but the noise is still there. I think its the bearing in the transaxel pulley. The big one of the side of the transaxel. What's the best way to removed this pulley? Unfortunately I cant find the pulley for sale. I did find a YouTube video of a guy replacing the bearing on any pully. He drilled out the rivets holding the 2 piece pulley together, separated pulley, popped old bearing out and inserted a new one. Then you either rivet it back together or bolt it back together. So I think that will be my best bet.

#27 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 09:10 AM

Different bearing style.
If you look at the exploded view on Sears website, you will see better what you're looking at.

#28 aaronsGT OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 11:50 AM

Crap, makes sense though because i tried tightening that pulley and the whole pulley turned. I'll listen again and maybe its coming from one of the other 2 pulleys. Both of those are available

#29 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 04:09 PM

Boy I wish you could post a video or one of us could be there.
If its the pulley I think you mean, it is a tapered shaft with a key.
When you say it turned... Do you mean on the shaft or with the nut?

#30 aaronsGT OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 08:12 PM

FYI when there is no oil in the transaxle it may squeal. When you put the recommended 4qts of oil in, the squeal goes away. Just finished mowing with it. I didn't have all the bolts to secure the deck properly so didn't cut very level.




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