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Another Round Of Repairs For The 101


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#16 Bill56 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 07, 2014 - 09:57 PM

You can get the fuel shut off with screen from NAPA auto parts. Cost for mine was 5.00 and some change.


I called Napa. They quoted me $15.00 plus shipping and it would have to be ordered. Their part number was 220764S. Is that the same valve you got for $5.00?
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#17 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2014 - 04:23 AM

Those front bolts are notorious for working loose. I recommend that you strap down or remove the hood when trailering as it can blow off at highway speeds. That may explain the numerous round tops out there missing hoods.

:ditto:  Bungee cord when i bought it to the Orange Engine/Tractor show.


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#18 Bill56 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2014 - 06:12 AM

I'll have to put the hood on my trailer "check list" ...Thanks!
Removed the fuel tank yesterday and gave it a nuts and washer bath. Didn't seem all that bad looking,inside. I "borrowed" a shutoff valve (with a screen) from one of the Bolens and reinstalled the tank with a new filter. Then installed the deck. Here's what I found on accomplishing that without removing the front bracket pins... (from the left side) It's easy enough to twist things around and get the first half of the deck under the tractor with one front bracket inside of the left front wheel but the other bracket would be jammed against the front tire no matter how I twisted, pushed, or pulled. Then I discovered that if you push ahead on the front wheel the rear tire will roll tight to the deck and the bracket slipped right past... a lot of explaining, but it actually was pretty quick to do. I think once I get my steering stops straightened, and the front wheels will turn full left and right, that the bracket may not hit the wheel at all... we'll see.
Anyway, got the deck on and mowed the yard. Engine ran flawlessly and mower worked good. Couldn't install the new cross drive belt, though. It was too short, so I had to use the old belt. Not sure what the problem is. New belt is Simplicity #2174911. Seems to be about an inch short.

#19 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2014 - 09:05 PM

I'll have to put the hood on my trailer "check list" ...Thanks!
Removed the fuel tank yesterday and gave it a nuts and washer bath. Didn't seem all that bad looking,inside. I "borrowed" a shutoff valve (with a screen) from one of the Bolens and reinstalled the tank with a new filter. Then installed the deck. Here's what I found on accomplishing that without removing the front bracket pins... (from the left side) It's easy enough to twist things around and get the first half of the deck under the tractor with one front bracket inside of the left front wheel but the other bracket would be jammed against the front tire no matter how I twisted, pushed, or pulled. Then I discovered that if you push ahead on the front wheel the rear tire will roll tight to the deck and the bracket slipped right past... a lot of explaining, but it actually was pretty quick to do. I think once I get my steering stops straightened, and the front wheels will turn full left and right, that the bracket may not hit the wheel at all... we'll see.
Anyway, got the deck on and mowed the yard. Engine ran flawlessly and mower worked good. Couldn't install the new cross drive belt, though. It was too short, so I had to use the old belt. Not sure what the problem is. New belt is Simplicity #2174911. Seems to be about an inch short.

I knew it would go! Key is getting the deck back against the rear tires. Strange that the instructions for the Simplicity 101 with mower 990285 is different from the instructions that came with our Allis B10, 45years ago.
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#20 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2014 - 05:35 AM

I'll have to put the hood on my trailer "check list" ...Thanks!
Removed the fuel tank yesterday and gave it a nuts and washer bath. Didn't seem all that bad looking,inside. I "borrowed" a shutoff valve (with a screen) from one of the Bolens and reinstalled the tank with a new filter. Then installed the deck. Here's what I found on accomplishing that without removing the front bracket pins... (from the left side) It's easy enough to twist things around and get the first half of the deck under the tractor with one front bracket inside of the left front wheel but the other bracket would be jammed against the front tire no matter how I twisted, pushed, or pulled. Then I discovered that if you push ahead on the front wheel the rear tire will roll tight to the deck and the bracket slipped right past... a lot of explaining, but it actually was pretty quick to do. I think once I get my steering stops straightened, and the front wheels will turn full left and right, that the bracket may not hit the wheel at all... we'll see.
Anyway, got the deck on and mowed the yard. Engine ran flawlessly and mower worked good. Couldn't install the new cross drive belt, though. It was too short, so I had to use the old belt. Not sure what the problem is. New belt is Simplicity #2174911. Seems to be about an inch short.

That is interesting, the cross drive should be 44.1 inches #2174911 for Simplicity 101 for the big pulley on the mule drive, it can be a little hard to pull the drive forwards a bit more to wrap the belt around the pulley.

 

Does your tractor have the spring tension lever under the right axle ? if not then try unhooking the spring from the tab bolted to the tranny and putting on the belt, bit of a PIA to hook it back up though.

 

When the cross drive is hooked up does the BGB stay engaged with the drive ? if so adjust the set collar on the pto rod for the idler pulley by loosing it, holding the idler pulley and pulling the rod/lever forwards a bit, to double check the BGB pto to mule drive is 1/2 x 35.

 

I will be mowing with the Squire 9 today.



#21 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2014 - 05:44 AM

I knew it would go! Key is getting the deck back against the rear tires. Strange that the instructions for the Simplicity 101 with mower 990285 is different from the instructions that came with our Allis B10, 45years ago.

Why fight with the deck ? pulling it this way and that way running the risk of bending the bracket by forcing it through, what is the point when two pins can be pulled, brackets flipped back, deck shimmied under and everything hooked up in less the 10 min.

 

The MW manual for the Squire (Landlord early) tractor states the same as the Allis B-10 (early) seeing as both were built in 64, bill's 101 is 65-66, Simplicity updated the tractor and manual, the deck brackets took two pins instead of bolts, nothing strange about that, just common sense so i applied that to mines.


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#22 Bill56 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2014 - 07:52 AM

I'll probably change the bolts to pins eventually. The holes in the brackets have been worn because the bolts somebody used were undersized. So may need to add a bushing of some sort too. I noticed most other linkages are worn badly too... clutch, brake, etc. One of the bolts that tightens in the slot for the deck rollers is worn nearly half way through. That's a welded in bolt, so it will take a bit of doing for that repair!

As far as the cross drive belt... Didn't have time to check it out thoroughly. The center spindle pulley is the correct part number. PTO pulley has been replaced with a single groove pulley maybe around two inch diameter. The dealer told me the diameter of the large (correct) pulley was just under three inches. So if my PTO has a smaller pulley, then the belt should be loose, not tight... doesn't make sense! My tractor has the release lever on the PTO and it moves freely. When I "squeezed" the new belt on it pulled everything so tight that the lever to disengage the PTO wouldn't work. Just a matter of figuring it out. I'm sure I'm not seeing something.

Another issue is the "slop" in the drive, that I mention before. There's definitely something loose... somewhere. When I remove the drive belt from the trans the drive pulley will rotate freely for nearly a full turn before the wheels try to turn. Pulley is tight on it's shaft. I still need to check the two bolts on the axle, so maybe the problem is there... Any ideas, from anyone, on what else to check?

#23 classic ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2014 - 09:54 AM

There is a combination of things that cause slop in the BGB and the transaxle. Here is a small list of things.
1. Worn woodruff keys and key slots in every shaft in the trans and BGB.
2. Worn woodruff key slots in the BGB gears and trans gears.
3. Worn woodruff key slots on the axle tube.
4. Worn woodruff key slots in the differential hub.
5. Worn differential hub gears.
6. Worn gears in the BGB and transaxle.
When you add up the amount of wear at each point of wear, you end up with quite a bit of freewheel at the drive pulley like you are experiencing. The machine will probably be fine for years to come, but you will just have to deal with the slop unless you disassemble the trans and BGB and rebuild them.

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#24 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2014 - 01:11 PM

I'll have to put the hood on my trailer "check list" ...Thanks!
Removed the fuel tank yesterday and gave it a nuts and washer bath. Didn't seem all that bad looking,inside. I "borrowed" a shutoff valve (with a screen) from one of the Bolens and reinstalled the tank with a new filter. Then installed the deck. Here's what I found on accomplishing that without removing the front bracket pins... (from the left side) It's easy enough to twist things around and get the first half of the deck under the tractor with one front bracket inside of the left front wheel but the other bracket would be jammed against the front tire no matter how I twisted, pushed, or pulled. Then I discovered that if you push ahead on the front wheel the rear tire will roll tight to the deck and the bracket slipped right past... a lot of explaining, but it actually was pretty quick to do. I think once I get my steering stops straightened, and the front wheels will turn full left and right, that the bracket may not hit the wheel at all... we'll see.
Anyway, got the deck on and mowed the yard. Engine ran flawlessly and mower worked good. Couldn't install the new cross drive belt, though. It was too short, so I had to use the old belt. Not sure what the problem is. New belt is Simplicity #2174911. Seems to be about an inch short.

for the moment I would measure the belt that works and get one that length. One of the things that happens over the years is parts get changed out on these PTO assemblies or PTO's get swapped out off other models. There were 5-6 different PTO's produced over the years while the FDT's were being produced. Mixing and matching causes a lot of pto headaches amoung enthusiast. One thing you don't want is to be running a belt that is too tight as it will cause premature failure of the center arbor bearings.

Edited by skunkhome, August 09, 2014 - 01:16 PM.

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#25 steve b OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2014 - 03:55 PM

Bill,

The fuel shutoff I purchased was SME 702351. It is right around 5.00 and some change.


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#26 Bill56 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2014 - 08:51 PM

Thank you, everyone! A couple of busy days ahead, for me, so will be a while before I get to work on anything.

Thanks again, BILL
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#27 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2014 - 05:33 AM

We will be here, looking forwards.



#28 Bill56 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2014 - 01:52 PM

Well, my "couple" of busy days turned into more than a week of time gone by. I finally got back in the mowing seat today. Before starting, I straightened the bent steering stops on the front axle. That sure helped a lot. Not near as much trouble navigating my small yard now! I also fabricated a belt stop and belt guard for the PTO.
This tractor and mower deck continue to impress me. My grass was pretty long, and very wet, yet there are no clumps anywhere. Engine just purrs along nicely and doesn't seem to struggle. It is slow to start though... going to have to see about a carb kit someday.
Hoping to get over to my mom's place to mow "the big yard" sometime this week. (The main reason for refurbishing this tractor).
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#29 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2014 - 05:56 PM

Usually i am raising the deck in Aug, with all the freaking rains instead i dropped it to 1/2 '' today even though is was a little wet this morning, can't stall that old Briggs, she just settled in at a solid 1800 rpm and stays there until the end of the swath.

 

It also helps to fine tune the points Bill, does not have to be .018, balance it with the fuel, these tractors continue to prove itself even after 50 years :thumbs:

 

 

 

 

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#30 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted September 07, 2014 - 03:14 PM

As an engine gets older I usually end up opening the gap a tad to .021 to compensate for wear. Just have to be careful not to advance the spark too much.
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