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Another Round Of Repairs For The 101

3K views 32 replies 6 participants last post by  Bill56 
#1 ·
Everything seemed to have been running good for my first mowing experience last week. But I wanted to check out the condition of the spindle drive belt on the deck. So I decided to start working on that this morning. The belt definitely needs replacing. That will be the easy and "cheap" part of the deck repairs... Unfortunately, the center mandrel shaft was ruined at some point in it's life. Shaft is undersized at both the upper and lower bearing locations and the top drive pulley key way is all but nonexistent. Found a Simplicity dealer, not too far away, so I ordered a new spindle. ($$OUCH$$) Should have it in a day or two. Good news about all this is, when cleaning the gunk off the drive pulley, I discovered a Simplicity part number... and it's the correct pulley and doesn't seem to be worn any!!!! I thought, since the pulley's flange was wider than the belt, that someone had switched it from the original one. But apparently it is made that way because of the twist in the cross drive belt?? The bearings seem good but I suppose it would make good sense to replace them while everything is apart. I'm still learning about this tractor and mower deck... couldn't figure why it was such a hassle to get the deck in or out from under the tractor. The two front hanger brackets would almost clear the front tires, but not quite. Today, when I had to remove the bolts from those hangers, I discovered that they were supposed to be pins so they could be easily removed and the bracket can flip up out of the way. Guess I should spend some time and read the Owners Manual!!! I am making progress. That's the important part.... Right?
 
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#4 · (Edited by Moderator)
One of the reasons I chose this tractor for a "revival" was the relatively good condition of the mower deck. And it is good as far as the housing. So I don't feel so bad spending some time and money. It just had some neglect of preventative maintenance. I picked up new bearings, belts, grease this afternoon. So when the new spindle arrives, I'll be ready to put everything back together.

One other item I have questions about is the steering. The turning radius seems a bit wide to me. Are the stop pins welded to each end of the axle supposed to be straight? Mine are bent slightly rearward.
 
#6 ·
You should be able to drop the deck and "swing" it out from under the tractor by pulling only three pins. Two at the axle and one at the lift. No further disassembly is necessary. It is a bit of a dance to get it out but after pulling the pins turn the steering wheel far right and if you push it back against the rear tires then rotate it out the left side it will clear the front wheels and the right hand height adjuster will clear the PTO swing arm.
 
#7 ·
You should be able to drop the deck and "swing" it out from under the tractor by pulling only three pins. Two at the axle and one at the lift. No further disassembly is necessary. It is a bit of a dance to get it out but after pulling the pins turn the steering wheel far right and if you push it back against the rear tires then rotate it out the left side it will clear the front wheels and the right hand height adjuster will clear the PTO swing arm.
Unless the rear or front wheels are smaller then original then there is no way, i tried both ways many times with the front wheels turned.
 
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#8 ·
I actually have gotten the mower in and out without taking the pins out, but it's a bit of wiggling this way and that to get to the goal. And if I had to tell someone how I did it... No idea! I'm thinking, when I have the time, of making a lever type jack to lift the axle

You only need to lift one wheel, a couple of inches, and the brackets will slide right under. Maybe someone should take a video so we could remember which way to turn, push, and pull the deck!! :D It also might be a little easier once I get my bent steering stops straightened so the wheels will turn a little tighter.
 
#10 ·
On another note... Didn't get a chance for a test drive, but I think I've successfully completed the mower deck repairs. All new belts, a couple of new bearings, greased, oiled and ready to go... hopefully!!!

Next problem is the fuel shutoff valve. I've plugged up two fuel filters, so far, so I decided to pull the tank for a cleaning. When I removed the shutoff valve I found the screen was missing. So I need to find a new valve. Checked some prices... $$$... Think I'll "borrow" one from one of the other toys!! Hopefully that will get me back in the seat again.

One other question... How are the hood bolts supposed to work? Rear ones are in a threaded hole... no problem. But how are the front two supposed to work in the slotted brackets? I don't have the original "winged" bolts so maybe I'm missing what goes inside the hood?? Tried to look it up on the parts manual, but couldn't make out the diagram clearly.

Thanks, BILL
 
#12 ·
The front hood bolts had cone springs between the hood and a threaded bar the t handle hood bolts thread into, the spring sits on the inside of the slotted bracket against the threaded bar, it compresses against the grill support and threaded bar, usually always rattle lose, lost and spurred some really creative hood latches and hold downs.

For my Squire 9 it will remain as original as i can, for the Allis, it will be replaced by rubber latches.
 
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#15 ·
The front hood bolts had cone springs between the hood and a threaded bar the t handle hood bolts thread into, the spring sits on the inside of the slotted bracket against the threaded bar, it compresses against the grill support and threaded bar, usually always rattle lose, lost and spurred some really creative hood latches and hold downs.

For my Squire 9 it will remain as original as i can, for the Allis, it will be replaced by rubber latches.
Those front bolts are notorious for working loose. I recommend that you strap down or remove the hood when trailering as it can blow off at highway speeds. That may explain the numerous round tops out there missing hoods.
 
#17 ·
Those front bolts are notorious for working loose. I recommend that you strap down or remove the hood when trailering as it can blow off at highway speeds. That may explain the numerous round tops out there missing hoods.
:ditto: Bungee cord when i bought it to the Orange Engine/Tractor show.
 
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#18 ·
I'll have to put the hood on my trailer "check list" ...Thanks!
Removed the fuel tank yesterday and gave it a nuts and washer bath. Didn't seem all that bad looking,inside. I "borrowed" a shutoff valve (with a screen) from one of the Bolens and reinstalled the tank with a new filter. Then installed the deck. Here's what I found on accomplishing that without removing the front bracket pins... (from the left side) It's easy enough to twist things around and get the first half of the deck under the tractor with one front bracket inside of the left front wheel but the other bracket would be jammed against the front tire no matter how I twisted, pushed, or pulled. Then I discovered that if you push ahead on the front wheel the rear tire will roll tight to the deck and the bracket slipped right past... a lot of explaining, but it actually was pretty quick to do. I think once I get my steering stops straightened, and the front wheels will turn full left and right, that the bracket may not hit the wheel at all... we'll see.
Anyway, got the deck on and mowed the yard. Engine ran flawlessly and mower worked good. Couldn't install the new cross drive belt, though. It was too short, so I had to use the old belt. Not sure what the problem is. New belt is Simplicity #2174911. Seems to be about an inch short.
 
#19 ·
I'll have to put the hood on my trailer "check list" ...Thanks!
Removed the fuel tank yesterday and gave it a nuts and washer bath. Didn't seem all that bad looking,inside. I "borrowed" a shutoff valve (with a screen) from one of the Bolens and reinstalled the tank with a new filter. Then installed the deck. Here's what I found on accomplishing that without removing the front bracket pins... (from the left side) It's easy enough to twist things around and get the first half of the deck under the tractor with one front bracket inside of the left front wheel but the other bracket would be jammed against the front tire no matter how I twisted, pushed, or pulled. Then I discovered that if you push ahead on the front wheel the rear tire will roll tight to the deck and the bracket slipped right past... a lot of explaining, but it actually was pretty quick to do. I think once I get my steering stops straightened, and the front wheels will turn full left and right, that the bracket may not hit the wheel at all... we'll see.
Anyway, got the deck on and mowed the yard. Engine ran flawlessly and mower worked good. Couldn't install the new cross drive belt, though. It was too short, so I had to use the old belt. Not sure what the problem is. New belt is Simplicity #2174911. Seems to be about an inch short.
I knew it would go! Key is getting the deck back against the rear tires. Strange that the instructions for the Simplicity 101 with mower 990285 is different from the instructions that came with our Allis B10, 45years ago.
 
#20 ·
I'll have to put the hood on my trailer "check list" ...Thanks!
Removed the fuel tank yesterday and gave it a nuts and washer bath. Didn't seem all that bad looking,inside. I "borrowed" a shutoff valve (with a screen) from one of the Bolens and reinstalled the tank with a new filter. Then installed the deck. Here's what I found on accomplishing that without removing the front bracket pins... (from the left side) It's easy enough to twist things around and get the first half of the deck under the tractor with one front bracket inside of the left front wheel but the other bracket would be jammed against the front tire no matter how I twisted, pushed, or pulled. Then I discovered that if you push ahead on the front wheel the rear tire will roll tight to the deck and the bracket slipped right past... a lot of explaining, but it actually was pretty quick to do. I think once I get my steering stops straightened, and the front wheels will turn full left and right, that the bracket may not hit the wheel at all... we'll see.
Anyway, got the deck on and mowed the yard. Engine ran flawlessly and mower worked good. Couldn't install the new cross drive belt, though. It was too short, so I had to use the old belt. Not sure what the problem is. New belt is Simplicity #2174911. Seems to be about an inch short.
That is interesting, the cross drive should be 44.1 inches #2174911 for Simplicity 101 for the big pulley on the mule drive, it can be a little hard to pull the drive forwards a bit more to wrap the belt around the pulley.

Does your tractor have the spring tension lever under the right axle ? if not then try unhooking the spring from the tab bolted to the tranny and putting on the belt, bit of a PIA to hook it back up though.

When the cross drive is hooked up does the BGB stay engaged with the drive ? if so adjust the set collar on the pto rod for the idler pulley by loosing it, holding the idler pulley and pulling the rod/lever forwards a bit, to double check the BGB pto to mule drive is 1/2 x 35.

I will be mowing with the Squire 9 today.
 
#21 ·
I knew it would go! Key is getting the deck back against the rear tires. Strange that the instructions for the Simplicity 101 with mower 990285 is different from the instructions that came with our Allis B10, 45years ago.
Why fight with the deck ? pulling it this way and that way running the risk of bending the bracket by forcing it through, what is the point when two pins can be pulled, brackets flipped back, deck shimmied under and everything hooked up in less the 10 min.

The MW manual for the Squire (Landlord early) tractor states the same as the Allis B-10 (early) seeing as both were built in 64, bill's 101 is 65-66, Simplicity updated the tractor and manual, the deck brackets took two pins instead of bolts, nothing strange about that, just common sense so i applied that to mines.
 
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#22 ·
I'll probably change the bolts to pins eventually. The holes in the brackets have been worn because the bolts somebody used were undersized. So may need to add a bushing of some sort too. I noticed most other linkages are worn badly too... clutch, brake, etc. One of the bolts that tightens in the slot for the deck rollers is worn nearly half way through. That's a welded in bolt, so it will take a bit of doing for that repair!

As far as the cross drive belt... Didn't have time to check it out thoroughly. The center spindle pulley is the correct part number. PTO pulley has been replaced with a single groove pulley maybe around two inch diameter. The dealer told me the diameter of the large (correct) pulley was just under three inches. So if my PTO has a smaller pulley, then the belt should be loose, not tight... doesn't make sense! My tractor has the release lever on the PTO and it moves freely. When I "squeezed" the new belt on it pulled everything so tight that the lever to disengage the PTO wouldn't work. Just a matter of figuring it out. I'm sure I'm not seeing something.

Another issue is the "slop" in the drive, that I mention before. There's definitely something loose... somewhere. When I remove the drive belt from the trans the drive pulley will rotate freely for nearly a full turn before the wheels try to turn. Pulley is tight on it's shaft. I still need to check the two bolts on the axle, so maybe the problem is there... Any ideas, from anyone, on what else to check?
 
#23 ·
There is a combination of things that cause slop in the BGB and the transaxle. Here is a small list of things.
1. Worn woodruff keys and key slots in every shaft in the trans and BGB.
2. Worn woodruff key slots in the BGB gears and trans gears.
3. Worn woodruff key slots on the axle tube.
4. Worn woodruff key slots in the differential hub.
5. Worn differential hub gears.
6. Worn gears in the BGB and transaxle.
When you add up the amount of wear at each point of wear, you end up with quite a bit of freewheel at the drive pulley like you are experiencing. The machine will probably be fine for years to come, but you will just have to deal with the slop unless you disassemble the trans and BGB and rebuild them.
 

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#24 · (Edited by Moderator)
I'll have to put the hood on my trailer "check list" ...Thanks!
Removed the fuel tank yesterday and gave it a nuts and washer bath. Didn't seem all that bad looking,inside. I "borrowed" a shutoff valve (with a screen) from one of the Bolens and reinstalled the tank with a new filter. Then installed the deck. Here's what I found on accomplishing that without removing the front bracket pins... (from the left side) It's easy enough to twist things around and get the first half of the deck under the tractor with one front bracket inside of the left front wheel but the other bracket would be jammed against the front tire no matter how I twisted, pushed, or pulled. Then I discovered that if you push ahead on the front wheel the rear tire will roll tight to the deck and the bracket slipped right past... a lot of explaining, but it actually was pretty quick to do. I think once I get my steering stops straightened, and the front wheels will turn full left and right, that the bracket may not hit the wheel at all... we'll see.
Anyway, got the deck on and mowed the yard. Engine ran flawlessly and mower worked good. Couldn't install the new cross drive belt, though. It was too short, so I had to use the old belt. Not sure what the problem is. New belt is Simplicity #2174911. Seems to be about an inch short.
for the moment I would measure the belt that works and get one that length. One of the things that happens over the years is parts get changed out on these PTO assemblies or PTO's get swapped out off other models. There were 5-6 different PTO's produced over the years while the FDT's were being produced. Mixing and matching causes a lot of pto headaches amoung enthusiast. One thing you don't want is to be running a belt that is too tight as it will cause premature failure of the center arbor bearings.
 
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