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Going To Build A Gt


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#91 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2014 - 10:41 AM

I wont need the universal because I've ordered a couple pillow block bearings to hold it so there will be limited movements.  I will admit I didn't think about the RPM and chain life.  There is only 4" height difference so belts would be tight.



#92 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 23, 2014 - 08:28 PM

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I wonder how much angle the lovejoy will handle?
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#93 toomanytoys84 ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2014 - 09:04 AM

Well good news is a 420 o ring chain will run on a 40/41 sprocket.

#94 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2014 - 09:47 AM

Will you be adding a belt tensioner on the drive belts ?



#95 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2014 - 10:10 AM

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I wonder how much angle the lovejoy will handle?

 

This doesn't look like much of an angle and would most likely be okay.   If you have more angle, then you might be better off on using a small U-joint.

The Lovejoy coupler is designed for a straight connection and will just about last forever being in-line.

I have used a lovejoy coupler at a slight angle before and the constant rubbing back and forth wore the rubber insulator out.


Edited by jdcrawler, August 24, 2014 - 10:16 AM.

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#96 toomanytoys84 ONLINE  

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Posted August 24, 2014 - 07:02 PM

Love joys hate angles. We use them on a lot of equipment and if they run at much out of alignment they wear the rubber out in a hurry.

Then they start wearing the coupler itself out.

Edited by toomanytoys84, August 24, 2014 - 07:03 PM.


#97 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2014 - 08:25 AM

After some investigative measuring the lovejoy will not be level.   The 5/8" ujoints are currently out of my price range.  Its frustrating trying to build this and not having any metal working tools other than a grinder and drill.  It makes things hard.  All this doesn't really matter seeing how im having a hard time finding a decently priced steering valve so either way I don't think ill make it by plow day.



#98 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2014 - 06:36 PM

Here is an idea: instead of running a chain drive off the engine to a shaft for the hydro, why not extend the engine output & drop a chain drive at the hydro?  In other words, move the pillow blocks & jack shaft up in line with the engine & put the chain drive at the hydro end instead of the engine end.  Make any sense?



#99 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2014 - 06:43 PM

This has been a mess trying to figure out and get everything right. I decided to cut the frame and drop the engine.

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I'm worried about the right side being weak so I'll have to reinforce it.


Engine lowered in and drive shaft mocked. I think the angles will be ok. Anyone see any issues other than structural?

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#100 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2014 - 07:54 PM

I played around with the sheet metal tonight. I really like the cub pan. It gives me a place for the battery and the foot boards are not cut up like some gts.

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I will say it felt comfortable and cozy when sitting on it. I'm going to see if I can trim the fenders to clear the tires and still keep them strong.

uploadfromtaptalk1409014436802.jpg
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#101 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2014 - 07:55 PM

Hind sight I wish I had moved the engine forward a couple inches.

#102 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2014 - 08:23 PM

If you cut anymore of those fenders they will loose their integrity.  I think the more simple route is to just move them UP.  Put some tabs under the mount points on the frame and you got your clearance.  It's something I have seen done on more than 1 cub cadet over the years when switching to 26x12-12 from 23x8.50-12.  As for the frame, do the same thing IH did to the 147 when they notched its frame for the 14hp kohler.  Just add a plate on the outside of the fan shroud that connects the frame back together.  Just makes the frame look like it is "swelled" at that point.  I like what you have going there.  It looks like it WILL be more reliable than your other mockups.  I think you are going the right direction.


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#103 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted August 25, 2014 - 10:00 PM

It's just channel steel... if it isn't right or you don't like it, fix it now. Don't wait until you have it together. The angles on the drive shaft look fine but make sure to phase those ujoints and weld the yokes to the shaft... those set screws are junk.


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#104 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2014 - 05:55 AM

It's not that I don't like it and it will have to be fixed before I really drive it. If I get it some what drivable I can get it on a trailer and get it to the shop. I'll worry about that when I get more towards the end of the build.

I think I would only need to space the pan a inch or so.

I don't want to weld the u joints. I'll be drilling them and running a bolt through them. I didn't think about timing them. Thanks

#105 Nashcub OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2014 - 07:17 AM

Except for the fact that it has cost you more than a few dimes...






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