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Going To Build A Gt


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#76 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 07:27 PM

I like the MTD fenders too. The mounting plate LilysDad mentioned sounds like a good option too. Looking good. Have you decided on a name for it yet.
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#77 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 07:57 PM

It's called The Survivor. Major problem number 1. The mounting plate would be a good idea except. The engine is sitting several (3 or 4) to high.

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#78 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 08:03 PM

The crankshaft/hydro shaft alignment was one of my main reasons to suggest putting the frame channel under the axle housings, then stepping up till alignment was reached.  The difference you have now is way too steep & universals won't hold up long.


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#79 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 08:12 PM

How about a chain driven jack-shaft to drive the hydro?


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#80 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 08:23 PM

I can step the frame down or change the frame rails ask together but doing so requires me to load all this up and haul it to work.

Option number 2...

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This makes everything line up. It also turns the engine and I like the looks of that better.
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#81 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 08:53 PM

Could you tilt the engine down in the rear and the rear up , the Power King;s engine trans / drive shaft ,,,though it's  enclosed are not parallel to the frame rails



#82 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 09:20 PM

I could. I'm liking the gear box idea. With the engine turned side ways it tucks nicely under the hood. With it being a 1 to 1 radio and coming from a Allis gt I'm sure it would work fine.

#83 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 09:23 PM

I could. I'm liking the gear box idea. With the engine turned side ways it tucks nicely under the hood. With it being a 1 to 1 radio and coming from a Allis gt I'm sure it would work fine.

That would work!



#84 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 09:26 PM

On the gear box the if you turn the input clockwise the out put also turns clockwise. So if I run it the way it's sitting will it spin the hydro in the correct direction?

#85 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 10:26 PM

On the gear box the if you turn the input clockwise the out put also turns clockwise. So if I run it the way it's sitting will it spin the hydro in the correct direction?

 

Yes, as the Cub did drive off the flywheel didn't it?



#86 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted August 19, 2014 - 11:01 PM

I would reather section the frame out keep the engine crank inline with the rearend over introducing another failure point in the drivetrain.

 

looking that he first picture of the engine sitting on the frame rails the first thought I had was "it's not just the oilpan that is too wide... the whole engine is" the second was "I wonder if that is why WH turned thier engines sideways...."

 

Looking good regardless!



#87 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2014 - 07:25 AM

Cost of a belt drive is cheaper to make that a shaft drive setup.  That could be another reason for putting the engine left to right.  The whole engine is wider than the frame.  Ive been thinking about it and with the engine turned left to right it will look more wheel horseish.  I also like the idea for the gear box to have a second output for a deck or something of that nature.  Who know what it will turn in to in the near future.


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#88 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 20, 2014 - 07:27 AM

Yes, as the Cub did drive off the flywheel didn't it?

 

Yes it did.  Based on what I think I thought it should or could be I figured in theory it would work the way it should the way it sits.



#89 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2014 - 08:50 AM

Its the nickel and dime crap that gets you.  Some of the stuff so far....

 

 

2 each 6408K11 Flexible Shaft Coupling, Hub for 5/8" Diameter Shaft, 1-23/32" Overall Length, Iron   $3.61 each    

1 each 6408K91 Hytrel Spider for 1-5/64" Outside Diameter Flexible Shaft Coupling   $7.90 each    

1 each 6280K492 Finished-Bore Sprocket for ANSI #41 Chain, 1/2" Pitch, 11 Teeth, 5/8" Bore   $12.30 each    

1 each 6280K493 Finished-Bore Sprocket for ANSI #41 Chain, 1/2" Pitch, 11 Teeth, 3/4" Bore   $12.30 each    

1 each 6261K174 Roller Chain, ANSI Number 41, 1/2" Pitch, 3' Long   $13.20 each    

3 each 6261K192 Connecting Link for ANSI Number 41 Roller Chain   $.87 each    

4 each 9414T13 Set Screw Shaft Collar for 5/8" Diameter, Black-Oxide Steel   $1.52 each  

 

2938T19 SAE 863 Bronze Flanged-Sleeve Bearing, for 3/4" Shaft Diameter, 7/8" OD X 1/2" L X1-1/4" Flange OD

Each 6.84  
6338K462 SAE 841 Bronze Flanged-Sleeve Bearing, for 7/16" Shaft Diameter, 9/16" OD, 1/2" Length
Each 5.20

 

$50 for the rear tires

$40 for the steel

$15 for misc collars and bolts


Edited by BairleaFarm, August 21, 2014 - 08:56 AM.


#90 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 21, 2014 - 09:37 AM

Chain drive?  Spider coupling?  I would go twin 1/2" belt & universal.  You won't get much life out of the chains at that speed unless you get high dollar o-ring chain.  Just my opinions, your results may vary.






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