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Going To Build A Gt


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#46 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 02:12 PM

Wow...NO bushings?  What were they thinking!



#47 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 02:17 PM

Its like putting plastic bearing on front wheels.  Some things ill never understand.  I'm not sure if there is one on the axle but I know there isn't any on the frame.

 

I should have the engine hooked up this weekend.  I'm trying to decide if I should use the u-joints from the 990 or a rag joint drive shaft from a cub.  I think ive got one laying around. 



#48 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 04:40 PM

I might be a cub guy but I would go with the u joint personally.  NOT a fan of the cub rag joints.  I agree with Daniel on the front axle.  Use a grade 8 bolt in it.  I have done this mod to my 100 and it is amazing how much slop you can take out of an axle this way.  I used a grade 8 bolt and then center drilled it and tapped the end to put a grease zerk in it.  With a bolt you can squeeze the axle in the frame to help take up slack in it.  Why not get 2 bushings and a bolt the same size as the axle pin.  Slide one bushing on the bolt to the head, put the bolt into the frame and axle and then put the other bushing on and tighten it down with the nut.  Now you can weld the bushings to the front frame and they will become part of the tractor frame.  When I say bushing I am thinking of something like a set collar.  It will give much more meat for your axle pin to ride on and cause less wear on your bolt.  You could even do the bushing/collar idea and still use a pin instead of a bolt if you like.


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#49 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 05:13 PM

I have little experience compared to you guys but the "pin riding on channel/plate mounts" thing is the norm' from what I've seen. At least none of mine had what I would call a bushing.

 

rag joints vs ujoints... one is cheaper and the other is stronger. I guess if done correctly either can be just as smooth as the other and vice versa.



#50 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 05:31 PM

I have little experience compared to you guys but the "pin riding on channel/plate mounts" thing is the norm' from what I've seen. At least none of mine had what I would call a bushing.

 

 

 

Yes, that is the norm.  I thought David was saying the axle beam itself had no bushing.



#51 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 06:45 PM

Yes, that is the norm. I thought David was saying the axle beam itself had no bushing.

I was. First picture is the axle I'm using. Second is a random wh axle I have on the wall. Neither have bushings...

uploadfromtaptalk1407973333046.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1407973345177.jpg

Starting to put a little bit together. I also have run into my first clearance issue. I think it will be easier to pull the linkage than to pull the rear end again. That thing was a buger to re install.

uploadfromtaptalk1407973478956.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1407973494372.jpg

#52 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 07:01 PM

Not sure, but it kinda looks like there may be a bushing in that beam.  Hit it with a sander & if there's a bushing, then you could make it out.



#53 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 07:02 PM

My 1970 Charger has a grease zerk on the underside of the axle.



#54 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 07:16 PM

My 1970 Charger has a grease zerk on the underside of the axle.

So does the 520 axle. I think most did didn't they?

#55 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 07:24 PM

??? If you keep it greased, where is the problem? The worn shaft on the axle you have implies lack of greasing.



#56 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 08:51 PM

I didn't say it was really a problem. I'm just more or less talking about how to fix my current slop issue.

I installed the axle.

uploadfromtaptalk1407980642839.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1407980655493.jpg

As I was taking a break I was looking. With the sweep in the axle it will be tight fitting steering linkage. I decided to flip the axle and I like it a lot better. I think it looks better and steering linkage will have more room.

uploadfromtaptalk1407980796149.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1407980806664.jpg

I jacked up the rear and to level the tractor I need 30" tires. I feel like I get those sooner than later. I won't be able to fit the fenders or 3ph until I get them.

Now where to go...Do I put the engine and built the dash tower from there? Or do I place the seat and work forward so the seat and steering wheel are comfortably placed?

Here's how I left it. At least it looks like a gt...

uploadfromtaptalk1407981100946.jpg
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#57 Sawdust ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 09:39 PM

Wow a dropped axle on a GT...looking good David far cry from the burnt 990. It looks like the dropped front axle will help you sit more level too. Fun project to watch. I would do some mock ups of the seat & steering wheel to get a good fit...you don't want to be sitting in the middle of this  :D


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#58 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 10:22 PM

Looking good!


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#59 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2014 - 06:48 AM

That attachment bracket/axle mount originally mounted on the end of the frame, not underneath. That is why you need such big tires to get it level.


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#60 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted August 14, 2014 - 09:58 AM

I love the look of those 520 axles... I should have kept that thing.

 

Sawdust, it's not really a dropped axle it is actually a forward swept axle... the angle of the phone makes it look dropped a little though.

 

David, personally there is no way I would run that big of a tire on that rear axle. Unless you can regear the axle, that will put way more strain on the hydro then you would want. If it were a show piece, fine but this thing is going to be a worker. Any heavy pulling (eg: plow, disc) would get that thing hot very quickly. You're looking at a 26% increase in in tire circumference between a 23"  and 30" tire.


Edited by twostep, August 14, 2014 - 10:04 AM.

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