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Going To Build A Gt


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#31 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2014 - 10:44 AM

 

What do you mean "making it controllable"?

 

 

Without some sort of friction system, it will jump to full speed without warning.  Then when returning to neutral, it can jump clean past to the other direction.  I know from experience.  If you want to plow a lot, hand control is far better.


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#32 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2014 - 10:52 AM

I plow once a year in your back yard lol.  I haven't even looked at the hydro linkage setup yet.  I hope to get the frame done today.  Once I have that much set up ill be able to visualize more. 



#33 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2014 - 11:31 AM

May I suggest larger front spindles with trailer hubs? Also, Grainger has these very thin thrust bearings that, when inserted between the spindle and cast axle, significantly decrease the steering effort.

http://www.grainger...._AS01?$smthumb$


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#34 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2014 - 12:18 PM

Those are for 3/4" spindles Im running 1" spindles from the 520.  Thanks for the link.  I might order a couple sets just to have handy along with the 1" ones I need.


Edited by BairleaFarm, August 11, 2014 - 12:22 PM.


#35 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2014 - 08:13 PM

Got the majority of the frame built.

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I measured square but after I took it if the hydro I noticed it's got a 1/2" twist. Not happy about that but a least I can twist it back before I do any cross members.

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That frame is starting to get heavy. I wish I had full use of my hand. It's making things difficult.

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#36 UncleWillie ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2014 - 08:23 PM

. I wish I had full use of my hand. It's making things difficult.

 

Just take off your shoe and use your toes.


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#37 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2014 - 10:26 PM

Oil pan and gasket have been ordered. I think I have to trim the oil dipper. Are they longer on the john deere style oil pans verses the flat bottom pans?

#38 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2014 - 12:52 PM

Oil pan and gasket have been ordered. I think I have to trim the oil dipper. Are they longer on the john deere style oil pans verses the flat bottom pans?

 

If you're talking about the flat bottom pans that are only maybe an inch deep, then yes, they have a shorter dipper rod.  I believe most John Deere have the sump extension for the dipper to work in.


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#39 IHCubGuy ONLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2014 - 03:35 PM

 I still haven't decided if I'm doing power steering. It would cost more but be easier. I wouldn't have to spend much for manual steering but it seems like that could be a pain.

I'm also torn on what size tires to use. I like the ones off the 990 but I know it's hard to find rubber. I could get close to the same height with a 26x11x12 atv tire.

 

 

Were you planning on using the hydro to supply your power steering?  If so is the hydro you have a ported hydro?  If not it will not run a power steering or hydraulic circuit like they do on a Cub Cadet.  As far as your rear tire size is concerned I think if you allready have your front tires from your front axle and you have your rearend and front axle allready attached to your frame you need to see how its going to sit with different size tires to determine what is going to work.  Frame should sit fairly level if you plan to use it with a mid mount mower deck.

 

 

If you're talking about the flat bottom pans that are only maybe an inch deep, then yes, they have a shorter dipper rod.  I believe most John Deere have the sump extension for the dipper to work in.

Many Cub Cadets use an oil pan with a deep sump on it.



#40 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2014 - 03:40 PM

I'm getting rid of the deep sump and cradle and going with I direct mount flat bottomed pan. Yes it's a ported hydro. The only reason for me choosing a hydro for this build was the ability to add hydraulics.

I hope to get the rear end mounted up to check for your height tonight.

#41 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 11:18 AM

Today I'm thinking about pivot points and bushings.

There is a lot of slop in the axle pin. It's only got 600 hours on it.

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I'm also trying to decide on the steering. I think I'll be using manual steering due to the cost of the power steering.

#42 twostep OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 11:50 AM

If you have access or funs to have it machined, you can just machine the axle to a larger pin.



#43 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 12:26 PM

I thought about that but it would just wear again.  Im thinking about drilling it out and putting plastic or bronze bushings in it.


Edited by BairleaFarm, August 13, 2014 - 12:26 PM.


#44 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 01:40 PM

Looks to me most all of the wear is just where it fits through the channel in the frame.  I'd just weld up the holes a bit, drill back out, then fit with a new grade 5 or 8 bolt.  That is if the bushing isn't worn too much.



#45 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 13, 2014 - 02:06 PM

No bushings on a Wheel Horse.  I tried a new 3/4" pin and there is still a little slop in the axle.  Ill put it all together with a new pin and see how it is.  If it isn't too bad ill run it as is and wont drill it for bushings.






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