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Going To Build A Gt


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#16 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2014 - 11:13 AM

You could build a step up frame....rear section under the hydro axle tube, then up ahead, block up to the front frame level.  This would give room needed for pulleys & such.



#17 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2014 - 11:47 AM

That's a good idea.

Lots of things, problem solving, and overall thinkage with a project like this.

#18 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2014 - 03:04 PM

I'm going Sunday to pick up a cub 1450 hydro. I can't measure to build the frame until I have it. Project on hold till next week.

#19 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 07, 2014 - 07:07 PM

Not much I can do. I am painting everything as I go before I get it put together. I want 2 coats in everything. I'll do a complete paint job once it's done.

uploadfromtaptalk1407456466108.jpg


Do the k series and the Briggs from the 990 turn the same direction?

Does a cub hydro turn the same way? Or I guess I should ask does the cubs hydro spin off the non flywheel side of the k341?

Edited by BairleaFarm, August 07, 2014 - 08:18 PM.


#20 diesel nut ONLINE  

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Posted August 07, 2014 - 08:49 PM

All gt engines spin the same direction looking at the flywheel.  It just depends how they're oriented in the tractor.  The 990 has the flywheel facing the front and all Cub Cadet gt's with a horizontal shaft engine had the flywheel facing the steering wheel   The Cub hydro is designed to run off the flywheel.  I'm not sure if it will work if its spun backwards.  Some one else on here might know better.  Hope this helps.                 Stewart


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#21 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted August 07, 2014 - 09:38 PM

Of all the many things I've learned here on GTT, the one thing that sticks, is

that when one talks about engine rotation, it's always based on looking at the

PTO end of the crankshaft. (the opposite end to the flywheel end of the crankshaft)

99.999% run CCW

 

The MF14 and 16 have the drive shaft attached to the flywheel, hence the input

into the hydraulic  pump runs CCW when looking at the input shaft of the pump.

 

Now, of course, if you're laying on the floor, looking up under the machine, it's a

whole different story. :smilewink:


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#22 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2014 - 08:05 AM

.

Edited by BairleaFarm, August 08, 2014 - 06:27 PM.


#23 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2014 - 06:31 PM

Of course the ujoint fits backwards for what I'm wanting to do. What size input shaft does the cub hydro have? I doubt it but can you spin the hydro pump backwards?

uploadfromtaptalk1407540577684.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1407540589854.jpg

I would also like to find a flat oil pan.

uploadfromtaptalk1407540659974.jpg
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#24 IHCubGuy OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2014 - 08:43 PM

I think there was talk of turning a cub hydro backwards a few years ago on one of the cub websites.  If I remember correctly it can be done but the charge pump has to be changed somehow on the hydro system.  I don't remember for sure but that sticks in my head.


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#25 diesel nut ONLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2014 - 08:45 PM

The cadet hydro is a 5/8 inch shaft.  After talking to my dad about it, it's possible that the hydro will work being spun backwards by turning the charge pump 180 degrees.  The problem with that is if it works it will now go faster in reverse than forward.  To fix that you'd have to either pull the pump apart and turn the swash plate over or pull the differential out and  put it back in with the gear on the opposite side of the pinion shaft.  The second one is easier to do.                Stewart


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#26 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2014 - 07:54 PM

I've got these two mufflers but they seem wider than the heat shield box.

uploadfromtaptalk1407631999419.jpg

uploadfromtaptalk1407632014967.jpg

Heat box is off a massey 1650 I think.

uploadfromtaptalk1407632064383.jpg

#27 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2014 - 08:26 PM

Does that tab even mount in the home behind it? Or is that for the cover?

I got the parts I needed. One rear and one axle. Hopefully I'll have time to get the frame built this week.

uploadfromtaptalk1407720073778.jpg

Twostep brought up a good question about wear points. I haven't even thought about that yet.

Brakes, steering, and hydro linkage have been the thoughts on my mind today. I want a foot hydro. That shouldn't be hard. Dual brakes would be cool but I don't know if they are really necessary. I still haven't decided if I'm doing power steering. It would cost more but be easier. I wouldn't have to spend much for manual steering but it seems like that could be a pain.

I'm also torn on what size tires to use. I like the ones off the 990 but I know it's hard to find rubber. I could get close to the same height with a 26x11x12 atv tire.

Bobby ask what I was going to name it. I think he's the one that came up with Survivor. I like it. 1 nothing survives stuff here very long and 2 it's built with parts that have survived from other gts.

Edited by BairleaFarm, August 10, 2014 - 09:55 PM.


#28 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2014 - 08:37 AM

May I suggest larger front spindles with trailer hubs? Also, Grainger has these very thin thrust bearings that, when inserted between the spindle and cast axle, significantly decrease the steering effort.



#29 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2014 - 09:38 AM

Foot hydro is easy enough, but making it controllable is not.



#30 BairleaFarm OFFLINE  

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Posted August 11, 2014 - 10:11 AM

I think the 1" spindle will do fine for what im doing.  Races and bearings are fine on the tire side as well so I wont be messing with them either.  Well, at least for the time being.  I did notice that one of the thrust bearings was gone when I pulled the spindles off so I will need to get a new set of those. 

 

What do you mean "making it controllable"?






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