First hello all, my name is Paul and I live in rual mid Missouri. I just moved to the country and found a pretty good deal on this ol 79 444. It ran when i got it and after a carb rebuild, sharpend blades and an oil change it runs and mows and moves great. Seller parked it about 3 years ago and said he had a new clutch installed about 10 hr before he bought a Gravley Z turn. My problem is shes a smoker, I used Lucas 30 wt plus with 5% Lucas oil stabilizer and it helped a little. This winter I am planning a tear down and rebuild and had a few questions.
I have found kits on ebay but am a little leary of a $90 kit any sugestions or thoughts? Next I need engine rubber mounts, where can a guy find these? Last but not least I read somewhere that the balancer gears should be replaced or removed, where can I find these or should I not bother? Any help will be greatly apreciated thanks in advance.
IMO that is one of the best Case/Ingersoll tractors. Late model Hi wheel Snap fast Kohler motor much cheaper on fuel and rebuild parts than the bigger onans.
Having said that it is still 35 years old i would take it a step at a time lots of parts in the hydro system may be getting tired, pump, drive motor, coupler, tcv, etc. Just mean to say be careful where you put your time and $$ and you can have a good running tractor without breaking the bank..
I'd also change out the hydro oil put in some clean Rotella 15/40. Can put that in the rear end too or 80/90 gear oil if you don't run in winter much.
If you don't have engine manual can go to Kohler Web site bottom of page find a K-series file for your year
Some guys only use Kohler parts, complete rebuild w/machine work around a grand. You may just need a top end, some guys get by with a Stens kit and rebore, still need a good machinist, w/piston a few hundred bucks. Stens may or may not still make K series parts top end kit usually around a hundred buks if can still find one
I'd try to find at least Stens grade parts, it is a lot of work & cleaning to rebuild the motor, i would avoid china parts
If your bore isn't real bad sometimes get by with a dingleberry hone and oversize rings, file the ends to spec. All depends what you find in the bore. Check w/feeler gage between piston and cylinder wall all around the bore make sure not egged out or will need to bore
Balance gears, if you have the motor apart should definitely remove. They damped idle vibration for new sale but 40 years later can grenade the bottom end. Bad risk imo not to remove if motor apart anyway
Good luck welcome to the site