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Free Wheeling Pin Experiences


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#1 red79 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2014 - 04:35 PM

Hello all,

 

I've been wrestling with the free wheeling pin on my G-10 for several days now and the thing is starting to come out.  It takes a very strong hit with a heavy hammer to budge it at all, even after what feels like gallons of PB blaster have been applied.  I have two questions for those who have battled these corroded-in-place pins before me.

 

First, my ultimate goal is to end up with a pin that I can easily move from the free to locked positions.  I'm wondering if this is a reasonable goal and what I have to do to reach it.  I'm obviously planning on greasing the pin liberally after I get it completely out and before it goes back in.  What I'm wondering is whether any of you have soaked the pin in a solvent to get some of the corrosion off in order to get the diameter back to spec.  Any thoughts on this?  I'm debating using one of my favorite solvents -- Coca Cola -- for a 2 day soak to get this thing cleaned up.

 

Second, there is some sort of vent or grease fitting on the axle housing that I'm a bit bewildered by.  Stock, it should have been nearly flush with the housing as near as I can tell, but it now has a metal piece that appears to be jammed into the opening and is interfering with the pin's trajectory if I want it completely out (see the picture I've attached).  What should I do with this? Is it ok to rip that puppy out completely, just leaving the vent/access?

 

Thanks

Attached Thumbnails

  • Tractor Free Wheel 2.jpg
  • Tractor Free Wheel 1.jpg


#2 farmerall OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2014 - 04:58 PM

The small pin in the axel is stock and meant to be like that. It is to keep the free wheeling pin from falling out of the axel if the clip isn't used in the freewheeling pin.


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#3 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2014 - 04:59 PM

Once you get the pin out clean it and the hole it goes into real good don't grind any of the dia off. Once you get it out and cleaned up it will move in and out a lot easier. Also keep it grease and also move it in and out from time to time so it does not freeze up again. As for the other thing that is a roll pin put in at the factory so the pin does not come out. If you need to remove it you will need to take the hub off the axle and drive it out.



#4 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2014 - 05:03 PM

Once you get the pin out clean it and the hole it goes into real good don't grind any of the dia off. Once you get it out and cleaned up it will move in and out a lot easier. Also keep it grease and also move it in and out from time to time so it does not freeze up again. As for the other thing that is a roll pin put in at the factory so the pin does not come out. If you need to remove it you will need to take the hub off the axle and drive it out.

 

:ditto:



#5 Husky OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2014 - 06:24 PM

Wow you are so lucky that the casting is not broke on that pin. Like the guys say keep it greased up good once you get it out. 



#6 red79 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2014 - 06:44 PM

Thanks guys.  I was able to get the pin and the hole cleaned up and now it slides in and out very easily with just a coating of WD-40 (I don't have any grease yet).  One thing I was noticing during this process is that the hub has a slight amount of play in it (probably about a 1/4" wobble when looking at the side of the hub from behind the tractor), especially with the pin out.  How much play is permissible?  It wasn't enough to worry me, but I would like to know whether it's a normal thing or whether I might need to think about bushings at some point.

 

 

Wow you are so lucky that the casting is not broke on that pin. Like the guys say keep it greased up good once you get it out. 

Husky, I am definitely counting myself lucky, although the pictures do make the casting look in rougher shape than it is.  I was full out beating on a punch (to the point the left tire was sliding across the garage floor and the jack stand started to lean) to knock that pin out.  Good thing these old tractors were overbuilt by today's standards :dancingbanana:



#7 68guns OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2014 - 07:55 AM

Had the same experience with my G10. You are probably going to need right side bushings. They run about $35 with shipping. If you can find out what the dimensions are on them you can buy them locally for about $3.00. If you do find out the dimensions post them here. I need to replace mine but don't feel like spending $35 on a bushing.

#8 Justin2655 OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2014 - 03:45 PM

i have seen on some that the cast does end up being broke in two from evadentally people trying to get the pin out or how ever it had happend, id take some fine sandpaper or wire wheel the pin and the hole, ive had pretty good luck with that and alittle bit of grease.



#9 chieffan ONLINE  

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Posted October 31, 2014 - 06:51 PM

Thanks guys.  I was able to get the pin and the hole cleaned up and now it slides in and out very easily with just a coating of WD-40 (I don't have any grease yet).  One thing I was noticing during this process is that the hub has a slight amount of play in it (probably about a 1/4" wobble when looking at the side of the hub from behind the tractor), especially with the pin out.  How much play is permissible?  It wasn't enough to worry me, but I would like to know whether it's a normal thing or whether I might need to think about bushings at some point.

 

 

Husky, I am definitely counting myself lucky, although the pictures do make the casting look in rougher shape than it is.  I was full out beating on a punch (to the point the left tire was sliding across the garage floor and the jack stand started to lean) to knock that pin out.  Good thing these old tractors were overbuilt by today's standards :dancingbanana:

Be sure to remove all that WD-40 before you grease it up.  WD-40 is not a long term lubricant.  It will dissipate over a short time.  It is a great tar and grease REMOVER and could break down the grease you put on it.






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