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Thought It Was A Ss12 Got A St16 Instead!

sears ss12 st16 parts help

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#1 aliwildatwork OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2014 - 04:17 PM

Hello ALL, and Thank God you're out there!  I have this project I've been working on for a while...the last piece of the puzzle was finding a lawn tractor that looks like a tractor. (not so easy in the city & never owned own) So the other day I found one on Craigslist and BOUGHT it.  It said on the hood SS12, but the paint on the frame and the engine didn't match anything I saw on any forum for a ss12.  Carb was missing the needle, but fella swore it ran.  So, Carb in, with needle, engine runs, BUT rough.  Also new battery makes contact with the hood. I have a pretty good guy to work on it as I am not there yet, says leak at the head gasket and exhaust. Also said he didn't think it was the SS12.  So I looked up the serial number as best I could and it is indeed a ST16 from 73-74. Engine is Tecumseh OH160.   Ordered the gasket set, gonna try fab the muffler to a stack.  Any and all advice is welcomed.  

Easy ideas for stack muffler?  Tractor supply is about 40 minutes in three directions...

What battery fits?  

Anyone have the hood and grill for a ST16 to swap or sell for the hood and grill for a SS12?  

 

Mine has some of the 3 point hitch, I'd like to pull a mini-float for a dog parade, what the weight I can safely pull? (Never really drove a tractor but maybe twice)

Anyone in Atlanta/North Georgia with a boneyard?  

I have until October to fix it up and pull the "float", but I also have to build the float.  Thinking of a tandem float, 5x8 trailer with a 52x36 wagon attached, with a lawn cart attatched at the end.  ONLY DOGS on the float part.  (pulling about 6 blocks, less than 15 mins of parade, then back)

 

I'm geeked about the extra power, but have been warned she's a beast, bucking and jumping (hence gaskets)

I'm thinking non-traditional paint scheme since the hood doesn't match, is rusty and it's a parade?

Anyone with a snow plow?  I only need to borrow it every 4-6 years....usually in March.

 

I think I just found a new love...

 

BTW...

68 Chriscraft Cavalier 26' Futura

56 Plymouth Savoy "taxi"

83 VW Rabbit (yes rabbit)

43 Western Flyer Girl's Cruiser

72 Honda 350four

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#2 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2014 - 04:28 PM

Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you have a good project there. I'm sure some of the Sears guys will be along to help you out.


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#3 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2014 - 04:47 PM

Welcome!  Sounds like the upgrade was a great surprise.


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#4 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2014 - 05:33 PM

:welcometogttalk:


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#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2014 - 05:44 PM

You will have no lack of power if the engine is a good runner. Guys have used the 12 hp version to move decrepit vehicles for years. Also, the Sears machines do a decent job on the pulling track. Just watch the rear up. Learn to let the clutch out slow.

Finding that style of hood and grill is going to be uncheap. They were fiberglass and broke easily, they are now in some demand. If its for fun and play, i would keep the hood (raise it enough to clear the battery) and enjoy being creative. As for who would have them here, I would check the site sponsors (on the main page of the forum)

Few things on those engines.
Run it a little rich for valve seat longevity. Some guys run smokeless two cycle gas in them also
Be cautious around the ignition wiring and do research before you change any wiring, especially the switch.
Putting a stack on it gives it a more muscular look, but do be careful to add some kind of reinforcement/support so the cast exhaust hole doesn't try to hold it all. Block can break there and that's not a good day.

Nice machine with lots of potential. Thanks for sharing

EDIT: don't forget to change the rear end oil. I use 80-90w, but others use sae30.
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#6 pharmer OFFLINE  

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Posted July 22, 2014 - 06:48 PM

Welcome. You fooled me with that greeting "Hello All". I work with a guy who is from Macon and he always says Y'all.
Anyway, check in the For Sale section From time to time. In the meantime I'll keep my eyes open for you up here in New England.
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#7 pharmer OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2014 - 06:27 AM

I found on my local CL an SS16 and anSS 18 parts tractors for sale. Same as the ST ,different engine.

#8 aliwildatwork OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2014 - 06:29 AM

Didn't know about the rear end oil, I'll change it!  The ss12 hood is steel so I'll reconfigure it, rig it so it doesn't touch the battery terminals. Also I really like the look of the grill.

 

Tell me more about the wiring difficulties.

 

Is there a battery box for garden tractors like there is for marine batteries?  Great advice about the Muffler support too.  I think the top screw hole is stripped.  we talked about tapping it, but the support bar would be very a wise addition.  



#9 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2014 - 08:10 AM

Welcome. 

Good start, it is indeed a 73-74 ST16 I have one also. Obviously you know the hood/grill are not correct, seat has been changed too. looks like yo do have the optional tool tray under seat. Sadly, it's hard to squeeze too much of a bigger battery under the hood even with correct hood. I have a 380 CCA lawn and garden battery in mine. 

MH is correct on rearend oil. You should drain as they can collect water. Little trick to make it go faster, remove one of the shifter bolts up top before you try to funnel the oil in the left side inlet behind the tire. That acts as a vent. Alos, heat you oil up slightly in a pan of later on stove. thin that oil out and it will go in better.

 

Once you learn the Tec motors, you will love them. I have 3 and my '77 16 is a worker and has never stalled under load before I lost traction ,she just keeps digging. 

 

Exhaust, make sure you support a stack if you got that way. You said the top bolt was stripped, if you go stack, one you remove the stock muffler, the head should be threaded inside so you can use a 1" threaded pip and screw in instead of using the two small bolts. Then just add you stack to the threaded pipe. 

If not already done, you maybe able to shim the bottom part of grill to get hood a little more clearance, the tractors with the twin cyl motors actually have a shim from factory I think.


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#10 aliwildatwork OFFLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2014 - 06:38 PM

Found another st16 for sale, grill in tact although busted, ran when they parked it.  $300. CONTEMPLATING IT... Right now waiting for head gasket and gasket set to show up.  Bought a muffler at TSC, 2' male to male blk pipe, 90 elbow, 6 in blk pipe  then we're off.  

 

I think for the parade I might leave her rusty, restoration/redo to come. 

 

Drove all over trying to hunt pieces and people yesterday, didn't do as well as I hoped.  What happened to the guy with the yard full of small engines around the corner?  The world has changed...


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#11 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2014 - 07:52 PM

Non running- $150 max in my book and it still better be in decent condition. 



#12 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 26, 2014 - 06:34 AM

Non running- $150 max in my book and it still better be in decent condition.

Right, I agree.
I bought three last spring, all rough, bad grills, one running, a rebuildable tiller, a dozer blade, one complete three point, one partial and a basket of parts all for $300 and I thought I should have my head examined.

As for the wiring, the owners manual or the parts book has a wiring diagram. Be sure to use it if you ever make any changes or rebuild the harness. An ounce of prevention is worth a ton of cash in this case. The ignition modules are susceptible to failure if wired to power by accident. This can happen thru miswiring or incorrect ignition switch replacement easily if care isn't taken.

#13 aliwildatwork OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2014 - 05:53 AM

Received my gasket set from Joe's Outdoor Equipment in a timely way.  Spent an afternoon driving around North Georgia trying to find a boneyard but wound up at Tractor Suppply Co. and bought a muffler, battery tie downs and bacon jerky.  Stopped by an Ace hardware for the black pipe nipple, elbow and 6" piece.  Dropped'em  off at the garage on Monday.  My friend Nathan has a old car restoration shop and he and Joe are going to get her running smoothly for me.  By mid week Joe had pulled her apart and was going to bring the valve spring tool from home to get the head off.  One of the bolts broke off in the intake manifold.  NOT worried, yet.  Lots of options to dig that one out, just means we'll take a little more time getting the other parts off.  

 

Anyone know the length and gauge of the bolts? Would stainless be better as a replacement? Has anyone ever put glass in the gas cap to replace the lense?  Going to shim the SS12 hood up from the grill where it bolts onto the frame and makeshift a lock down at the top so the battery will have clearance without contact. Found a few air scoops from our boat and thinking they'd look pretty fun on the tractor...I'm thinking muscle car for the re-do.  Also thought about going for the "wagoneer" look with some wood grain. Who knows, got to get her running first, right?



#14 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2014 - 08:18 AM

Sounds great.
Did you get the head off yet? I had to make my own spring compressor tool out of a piece of 1" angle. worked well.

I think the bolt probably broke off just because it was a steel bolt inside an aluminum head, corrosion and it was froze up.

Not sure about the gas cap thing.

I know a guy who took a suburban and went completely rat rod, customs exhaust, steering wheel, flat black and red paint job, white walls,. It looked really cool.

rat rod tractor 1.jpg
rat rod tractor 2.jpg



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#15 aliwildatwork OFFLINE  

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Posted August 05, 2014 - 05:57 AM

Absolutely outstanding!  The pictures and the tool.  Thanks for the inspiration. 







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