13 replies to this topic

[Firemang]

I'm trying to wire up a new PTO switch for my open sided 145.  The old one was part of the rats nest someone called "wiring" when I bought it.  I think the old switch was a 4 contact switch at one time but 1 is broken off and the safety switch was completely by-passed.  The only switch I could find that was close, was a 5 contact switch I got from NAPA.  I cant make heads or tails of how to wire it.  So I put the multi meter on it and found which contacts have continuity in the OFF and ON positions (marked with red arrows.  If anyone who's good at wiring wouldn't mind taking a crack at it and tell me where to wire each contact I'd appreciate it.  Thanks

 

Switch in OFF Position

 

Switch in ON Position

 

 

[Firemang]

Dang, my schematic from Word didn't come through, I'll hand draw and take a pic

[Firemang]

 

Ok so I was only able to load the image that shows the continuity when the switch is in the off position.  But basically what happens is when I switch it on, I only have continuity between terminal 4 and 5, no continuity elsewhere.

[JDBrian]

I'll take a shot at it. I'm not saying this is how it is wired from the factory, but this may work if that switch is what you are going to use. The right hand contacts 4,5 are what will power the coil since they are the only ones that are closed when the switch is in the on position. Power in on 4 and PTO coil connected to 5. The rest of the wiring will depend on how the interlocks are arranged. If it's interlocked with the seat switch then the feed to the ignition coil will go through contacts 1 and 2 when the PTO is off. If the PTO is on, ignition coil power will go through the seat switch which would be wired in parallel with contacts 1 and 2.  This will shut the engine off when the seat is vacated and the PTO is on. Now, if there is a neutral switch that could be wired into terminal 3 of the PTO switch. The power from terminal 4 would be fed through terminal 3 to the neutral switch when the PTO switch was off. Assuming the neutral switch is closed when in neutral it would pass power to the solenoid and allow starting when the PTO switch is off but not when it's on.  With the PTO switch off, the neutral switch would still need to be closed for the solenoid to be energized.

  You all can check my logic on this, I may have missed something. 

[KennyP]

Here is the wiring diagram for your tractor.

[Firemang]

Here is the wiring diagram for your tractor.

Thanks Kenny, I printed that schematic awhile back. Truth be told I'm about as dumb as a box of rocks when it comes to wiring. Was just wondering if someone couldn't decipher for me how my 5 contact switch worked and how I should adapt it to the wiring in your schematic.

[Firemang]

I might add that a couple things that are throwing me for a loop is one, in the factory schematic it has the power for the headlights coming off the pto switch, secondly I don't have an hour meter, just an anmeter so I've got a schematic for things I don't have. Like say I couldn't find a 4 terminal switch and can't figure how to wire it right. Maybe if someone can show me the continuity between terminals in a 4 terminal factory switch?

[Rock farmer]

That schematic is for a later model closed side Ford.
You have earlier open side machine correct?
So, yours doesn't have an hour meter or a seat safty switch.
The other safty switch is for the shifter to be In neutral.
But, the rest of the wiring is the same.

Joe

[Firemang]

That schematic is for a later model closed side Ford.
You have earlier open side machine correct?
So, yours doesn't have an hour meter or a seat safty switch.
The other safty switch is for the shifter to be In neutral.
But, the rest of the wiring is the same.

Joe

Thanks Joe, that helps explain things a little better.  Yes mine is the open sided model.  So all the safety switch does is not allow engaging of the PTO when the tractor is in neutral I assume?  I've been trying to use the schematic I pulled out of the parts diagram I downloaded off here for the 3310 model

[Rock farmer]

If it works, the safety switch prohibits You from starting the tractor unless the transmission is in neutral.

Joe

[FixItCharlie]

The 2 contacts that are connected when switch is in the off position are for the safety circuit. This will prevent the starter from turning the motor with the PTO switch on. The 2 contacts that are connected when the switch is in the on position provide power to the PTO. One wire will have 12 volts when ignition switch is on. The other wire is connected to the PTO Coil. Any double pole double throw switch will work as long as the current rating for the contacts is more then 5 amps. On LGT 145 the PTO switch had been replaced & the one that was used adds another special feature. The DPDT switch used is also a center off meaning this switch has three positions with the center position being off for every thing. Tractor will not start & PTO is not engaged. This can be a handy little feature if someone is around that you do not want playing with your tractor. 

 

Charlie

[Irontooth]

I had a similar problem when rewiring my GT12G. The original PTO switch had been replaced with a SPST switch, and all the interlocks were cut out of the circuit. I couldn't figure things out well enough from the Ford service manual, but then I discovered the schematic in the UT-34001 Parts List, available here: http://gardentractor...1-parts-manual/

I used an appropriately rated DPDT switch, which meant one pole was left unwired. I put a tape flag on each wire, numbered to match the numbers in the schematic, and it was pretty straightforward from there. The only oddity was that the PTO switch in the schematic was 'upside-down' compared to the real switch. That is, the wires shown coming off the top two connections on the switch are actually on the bottom of the switch as installed. You'll probably want to pull the ignition switch and clean any debris off - mine had the terminals labeled with the same letters used in the schematic.

- Don

[Irontooth]

Another thought - If indeed you don't have the seat switch, you could either adapt things to match the 4-pole switch, or use the 5-pole switch, and replace the seat switch circuit with a wire. That way, your wiring would more closely resemble the schematic if you should need to revisit it later.

- Don

[Firemang]

Ok so I completely re-wired the tractor and found that my issue was actually the key switch.  Once I got a new one with the contacts going in the right places everything worked, she turned over, lights all worked, etc.  Now though I cant get it to start.  Was tinkering with it a bit this morning and pulled the plug and it looks like I don't have any spark.  I put a "Points Saver" on it from Kirk Engines that doesn't use a condenser and I wired it up and adjusted my points and timing per the instructions.  Any ideas?