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Another Jim Dandy


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#1 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2014 - 04:28 PM

i have a 74 jim dandy pm going to restore. i got the engine out and in process of dismanteling engine. ive got a 3jaw gear puller set up to pull off the pully\ clutch disc. i have a socket over the tranz\pully bushing. will this mess it up the bushing.if trying to remove it this way? any input on corect procedure apreciated thanks. bill



#2 David Brown OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2014 - 05:03 PM

I wouldn't use that puller if it pulls on the flange.  I used a specially designed puller (a friend made it to bolt to the flange) to get one of these off and it still broke the flange.  First things first.  Make sure you get ALL of the set screws out of that clutch pulley.  There should be two in each hole if you have more than one hole.  Too many people take the first one off and destroy the thing because they didn't look for the other one.  Second, give it some generous shots of PB blaster.  You may be surprised and it may come right off but if it's never been off, I would prepare for the worst and have patience.  I use a 4 wedge system that works like a charm.  Wood splitting wedges.  Two facing point up against the engine block and the other two facing point down between the flywheel and the other wedges.  Give a few alternating taps to each wedge and the flywheel will slowly break loose.  This method saves the flange because you don't touch it and distributes the force on the engine block so as not to damage that.


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#3 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2014 - 07:35 AM

i decided not to use the 3jaw puller. didnt think it was the rite set up.got the 2 set screws out. going to try diy set up and some oak wedges. thanks bill



#4 Dave Central NY OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2014 - 07:42 AM

   Don't use a three jaw puller you will break the clutch / pulley disc.  You can get the sleeve out with a home made hook shaped tool. There is a seal in there too.  I made a 1/4" thick  disc, the same diameter as the clutch disc with holes that line up with the holes that hold the pressure plate on . Then put a short bolt of the right diameter and long enough so it stuck out about 1/2" in the center hole. Then put bolts in every threaded hole and tighten them evenly a little at a time , tapping the center of the disc tightening , tapping, etc. til it comes off.

 Do like the other poster says with the PB Blaster and the set screws.  I have never found one with 2 setscrews, but look hard  for them anyway.  If you can't get the sleeve out, just get a bolt that will fit down in there.

 There is a internal lock ring down in there behind the bushing and seal which keeps you from putting the disc back on to far. It won't be a problem taking the disc. off.



#5 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2014 - 12:18 PM

thanks for all the info. i mite have it off today. patience is my key. and god my wisdom. bill



#6 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2014 - 07:05 PM

i made the bolt on disk like in daves post. pully came off this time. thanks dave. bill



#7 Timehunter OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2014 - 05:42 AM

Don't know if you have finished the engine yet but....

I just rebuilt mine and I have not started it yet, just filled it with oil.

It had been sitting for several weeks and I noticed oil seeping out of the

bottom cast iron housing. I know all my surfaces were clean and flat before assembly.

The engine is already installed in the frame and everything hooked up so I don't want to

pull it again. The way I am going to fix it is to just barely lift it and unbolt the bottom cast

iron part of the engine and slide it out, clean all surfaces again, then instead of using a gasket

I will lay down a thin film of sealant then put a piece of thread in the center all the way around.

Hopefully that will work better than that gasket.

Just something to think about....

Good luck with yours!






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