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Electric Pto Clutch Removal

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#1 Markfes1616 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 08:54 PM

I wanted to share with you my recent experience with removing the front electric PTO. After doing some searching for info on the topic and coming up with little guidance, I dove in with success. The 1979 Powerking 1616 I had purchased lived most of its life outdoors, and as a result is quite rusty. so here we go...image.jpg After removing crank bolt, I noticed a larger set of threads that by chance was the same size of the bolt used on the rear mower deck linkage. (see photo) image.jpg After installing the bolt I used a slide hammer to remove clutch assembly. I can tell you it was quite happy where it was, but finally gave up. image.jpg The clutch and pulleys are an assembly.  Next was the rotor assembly. There are 2 holes in the rotor that I found bolts laying around that screwed right in. Here I suppose you should use a steering wheel puller. Here is what I did, and with a couple taps came off.
Finally, end result. Hope this helps, Thanks.

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#2 bill3t OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2014 - 12:44 PM

i just removed mine frome kohler engine. tag said install 5\8 -11 thread bolt and tighten. came rite off. want to remove the cluthe disk pully next not sure how to do any sugestions. thanks bill

#3 Markfes1616 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2014 - 08:57 PM

Mine is working so I have not looked into separating them. Maybe somebody else will chime in. For me, this whole project came about from finding an old mouse nest under the engine covers. I could not get it all out with the shop vac and air hose. So I decided to take off the engine covers to remove the mansion of a house he built in there. It turned into a nice little project. Lol

#4 glgrumpy ONLINE  


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Posted July 27, 2014 - 10:15 AM

Yeah, just use big bolt on those threads you found in the bore, tighten and should pull/push it off. I've had some that were pretty rusty tho and needed penetrant and waiting to let go also. Seems the Key area is the worst for binding. Once cleaned up on shaft and bore and keyway, it all goes back on real easy. I wouldn't try to seperate the unit, not much you can do with them really. Think you can change the center bearing if one, and maybe patch the two main power wires where they just start to go into the coil, but that is about it. There is a guy in WI, that claims he can rebuild them deeper in. Think about $100 for a rebuild if I recall right. I can give name and info if wanted. Last name is something like Galuner or close. He is on the PK group on Yahoo.