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Got The Motor Runnin


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#1 cherokee140 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 07:33 AM

Rebuilding my old John Deere 300 garden tractor. This machine has been out of service for years....just last week I started to put the motor back together.

Little back story....
Somehow....some way this engine tried to eat the screws out of the throttle plate. Sucked the screws right out of the shaft...both of them, Made their way past the intake valve where it got bent on the way by. Then it rattled around inside the cylinder for a while before the loose throttle plate choked out the engine where it got stuck in the intake....a real mess. The screws while not busting any rings or anything did make a mess of the piston I later found out. So I replaced the carb with a new one, installed a new intake valve and tried to run the engine. The engine had so much blow by it launched the dip stick about 20 feet in the air....I figured busted rings.

In the tear down only the top of the piston was damaged and the walls of the cylinder are in good shape....I just honed them down, replaced the piston, rings, pin..... and put it all back together. Got it running sunday, fired right up.

In the past I always worked on cars, now I have trouble with that so I have started to tinker with mowers. I got an old 1980's Ford YT16 up and going, hopefully this week or so I will have the 300 working, then it is on to an old Sears SS16 / Twin. Thinking of doing a diesel engine in the Sears.

Anyhoo...here is a quick video of the old Kohler brought back to life....the clanking you hear is the engine moving around on the stand, it is not from the engine.

http://youtu.be/cXWMfXRXljA

Anyone else mess with vintage lawn tractors....I am amazed at the people that fiddle with these things.


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#2 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 08:49 AM

Sounds good and sounds like the screw incident could have been much worse.  I have K301 in a 312 that has a busted rod.  I was told it was a hone/re-ring a few years ago then the rod let go.  



#3 cherokee140 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 09:23 AM

Yes....the most odd thing I have come across.  never have seen that happen before.



#4 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 10:06 AM

Yes....the most odd thing I have come across.  never have seen that happen before.

 

I have read about numerous people that have experienced this.  Did you put lock-tite on the butterfly screws?



#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 10:27 AM

Congrats on getting the 300 engine back together and running. I know that carbon buildup on the piston and top of the deck will also cause blowby if it's not dealt with. Did you check the crankcase vent to make sure it's not plugged. 



#6 cherokee140 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 12:42 PM

Yes, the vent is open....I think the only one is on the "valve cover".  As to the screws I never touched them.  Not quite sure what to do with it this time....I sure don't want it happening again.....you really have to work to get them out....Loctite, epoxy, JBweld.....something is going on there I just don't know what....really looking for suggestions....guess I should have come out with that right away.



#7 Gtractor ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 03:50 PM

Our local museum has a '53 Chevy pickup with a 235 [I guess] 6 banger and it ate the throttle butterfly screws a few years ago. The president asked me to "fix it" and after I found what was wrong I went to the local hardware store for replacement screws. I found the correct-thread screws in stainless steel, and knowing they would be tougher and take a serious tightening without galling or flat out stripping the threads, went with those. I also bought screws that were too long and once I had them good and tight I bent the tail ends over slightly so there is no chance they can get away. The next "mechanic" that has to remove those screws will have to use a Dremel tool to cut them off flush before they can be removed. 

:thumbs: 
 



#8 dave8338 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 05:44 PM

Yep.  They should stick slightly past the throttle rod and all you have to do is use a small drift and peen the ends just a tad.   :thumbs:

That is how they were installed from the factory.



#9 cherokee140 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2014 - 07:21 AM

Update:  Sorry no video.

 

I have taken the "body" off the tractor, drained the fuel.  I also painted the old motor mounts and got the rebuilt motor installed.  It runs and moves under its own power.  However I do not think the gov. is working correctly.....seems to get some pretty high RPM's and that really has me worried.  I never removed that so I hope I am not going to have to pull everything apart again.

 

Also I have a small problem....neutral is not quite right....I get a little bit of reverse when in the detent on the safety button. 

 

I have not looked but does anyone know off the top of their head what I need to look for to adjust that.

 

Thanks....and I will post up some photos and videos next time.



#10 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2014 - 09:23 AM

Hydro linkage needs adjusted and a service manual would be very helpful for that. I have one that I can take a pic of for you. What is the serial number on the 300? I won't be able to get to it untul thursday since I am out of town.

#11 richwoodrocket ONLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2014 - 09:26 AM

Not sure if it's the same on the 300, (I would imagine so) but here is what the 317 tech manual says about adjusting the hydro. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1406643945.589286.jpg

#12 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2014 - 09:27 AM

Also, grab the Kohler service manual from the Kohler website as it will help you with the governer.

#13 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted July 29, 2014 - 09:29 AM

Not sure if it's the same on the 300, (I would imagine so) but here is what the 317 tech manual says about adjusting the hydro. attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1406643945.589286.jpg


The 300/316/312/314 share many things with each other but the 317 has a manual of its own so I would suggest comparing closely.




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