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#31 Alc OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 05:46 AM

Your light shouldn't come on a normal ABS application ( wet roads )   If you want to rule out the ABS system look in your owners manual for the ABS motor fuse , guessing a 40 amp under the hood , Pull it  , your ABS warning light will come on but your brakes will be the same as a non-ABS vehicle . I'm pretty sure the members saying the calipers are sticking  but seems strange more then one ?  I would drive the truck as is with  the ABS  still working a few miles and get out and touch the wheels to see if ones hotter then the others .  I wonder if the master cylinder was changed and the brake pedal rod isn't adjusted correctly isn't letting the pistons retract , that's never happened to me but it's always in the brake troubleshooting stuff .


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#32 WNYTractorTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 06:23 AM

The ABS fuse is in the under-hood fuse box. In my GMC it's on the drivers side next to the battery. The light does not come on as it thinks it's doing it's job.  It sees one wheel stop and kills the brake to the other wheel.  Not a big problem in the summer months but it's another story in the winter!  The only thing that saves me from ditching it is the limited slip front axle..  It's still scary as hell.  I only use the thing for plowing as I have transportation issues in good ole NY (aka- the police state) and I'm sure it will cause accidents as pointed out above.  This is just another recall waiting to spring on GM..  How many have to die for this one??


Edited by WNYTractorTinkerer, July 15, 2014 - 06:24 AM.

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#33 toppop52 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 06:35 AM

AS stated, the ABS light indicates a problem and won't normally activate, you can scan for stored codes, but if you haven't had a light you likely won't see any recent codes. We use three different scan tools at the dealership where I'm service manager, but the problem you describe is caused by the calipers sticking, that's the cause of the hard pedal after a few applications of the brakes. The pressure isn't releasing. The hoses can cause this but if you aren't pulling to one side it's highly unlikely that both hoses failed at exactly the same time, not impossible but highly unlikely. I'd be really sure they replaced the calipers, but I'd also be looking for a failed master cylinder or more likely either fluid contamination or they didn't replace the calipers.


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#34 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 06:58 AM

If the caliper stuck, wouldn't he feel some kind of left or right pull? Unless both went at the same time, every time... And that seems unlikely.

I would suspect something in common with both sides, like the abs, brake booster or master cyl.
My knee jerk is that the master cyl is sticking somehow and isn't releasing or there is a common rubber hose to both sides (never seen that before but it's way newer than anything I own)

IMHO abs is ok, but more often than not a PITA that doesn't need to be there. The over computerization of our rides has been an issue for years


As for the bill... Anything not required to fix the problem or the old ones were worn beyond safety you probably aren't responsible for but the pay or not pay is a moral dilemma and I never do well with those.

If I were in your situation, if he has been fair to deal with in the past, I would take it to him and have him drive it for a day or two. Make sure he understands exactly how difficult it is to control when it occurs. Also exactly when the problem seems to happen.
If he can't make it happen in the shop, it's hard to diagnose. Oh, and be specific that this is his last chance to fix the issue and that after the repair, you and he will go over the bill line by line.
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#35 alleyyooper OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 07:20 AM

I worked on nothing but GM ABS brake systems from 1993 till 2001. I'm here to tell you that you can not believe all the trouble that ABS module can cause.

 

It can lock up the brakes just the fronts, or just the back and not throw a code. It can lock up just one front brake or just one rear brake, it is part of that traction control thing they do.

 

We had a test track we tested repairs on. A 98 Olds 98 scared me so bad I was sure I was going to pile the car into the tire barrier at the end of the track and kill me. Just gently applying the brakes at 50 MPH locked the front up and nothing in the rear and it started wanting to swap ends. letting up on the pedal wasn't helping either Than k the lord for E brakes being in the rear.

 

My money is on a bad ABS module which may or may not throw a code. A eltroniac device that can and will get hot under a hood and PUKE.

 

We used a hand vacuum pump to bleed brake lines. that way we were able to do the job alone and one wheel in order per the service manuals.

 

:D   Al


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#36 TAHOE OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 07:46 AM

I an leaning towards agreeing with Alleyyooper, that ABS module maybe the culprit if the rubber lines.calipers, etc have all been changed. 

My Tahoe never threw a light when the ABS kicked on.

 

I will also say my parents' Dodge van had both sides locking up at the same time due to deteriorated hoses. It never pulled to one side but would brake, then start shaking as you built up speed. Both rotors were warped something horrible. 


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#37 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 08:07 AM

I hope that you are able to resolve this. One thing I do as a backyard mechanic is resolve all mechanical issues before looking at the computers. Check that the calipers are "floating" as they should. Inspect the brake fluid. The "mechanic" may have contaminated the system when replacing the calipers. Make sure all computer wires and connections are good. Then you may need to look at the computor. If you bring it back to him, he may impound it until you pay what he wants. Good Luck, Rick

 

BTW this is giving me more incentive to restore my 1985 C10 and not bother with a newer vehicle.


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#38 WNYTractorTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 08:33 AM

OHHH   BTW-  When you pull the fuse the ABS and Brake lights on the dash will light/stay on..  But the brakes will work!!  Forgot to mention that..


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#39 Trav1s ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 08:39 AM

Dad has also mentioned that some vehicles are very sensitive to how brakes are bled, especially new ABS systems.


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#40 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 06:50 PM

Good question. The first set of pads were the life-time brake pads which are hard, but give off black dust big time. They also screech like heck too. My wheels were clean when I took the truck to him the first time. The next day when I started experiencing trouble again, my wheels were as black as the tires. Although they are hard and usually ruin your rotors over time, these things were wore down to almost nothing. Note sure what brand he used this last time, but I don't have near the amount of brake dust like I did before.

all "lifetime" pads are not like that!


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#41 dodge trucker ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 06:52 PM

BTW this is giving me more incentive to restore my 1985 C10 and not bother with a newer vehicle.

 

yeah that's why I drive older vehicles and continue to maintain them so that I DON'T have to replace them as often....


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#42 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 07:00 PM

Well I have good news and bad news. Although, the bad news I can live with for now. The good news is, I pulled the ABS fuse and the truck seems to be doing good, although the day wasn't as hot today as it has been for the past few weeks. The bad news is, not only does the ABS light, the parking brake light, and the Traction Control light come on and stay on, but I also have a dinging that I have to put up for about thirty seconds. It eventually stops dinging, and this afternoon I can deal with it. Can't say I'll be real happy about it tomorrow morning at 6:00 when I leave for work though. I'm going to drive it to work tomorrow and see how things go. I can't really judge it by tonight's small trip, so I guess time will tell. Once I determine that it is the ABS that is giving me the problem, then I'll replace the rotors again. I just can't see replacing the rotors before finding out what the real problem is.


Edited by johndeereelfman, July 15, 2014 - 07:04 PM.

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#43 toppop52 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 07:23 PM

Rotors are not causing your problem, and I'll be extremely surprised to find out the ABS  is the problem. If you had pulsating, intermittent lockup, etc... But what you describe is caused by the calipers applying and not releasing, I have never seen ABS cause those exact symptoms. They will cause spongy pedals in many 90's and early 2000's trucks, but I have never seen ABS cause a progressively harder pedal and sticking brakes that get that resolve when they cool off. In every case I've ever seen that was caused by faulty calipers, bad master cylinder, contaminated fluid or failed hoses caused by contaminated fluid. I have known of a few cases of failed ABS system causing sudden lockup that wouldn't release, but I've never seen it myself.


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#44 js5020 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 08:07 PM

BTW this is giving me more incentive to restore my 1985 C10 and not bother with a newer vehicle.

 

yeah that's why I drive older vehicles and continue to maintain them so that I DON'T have to replace them as often....

Yep thats why a 79 cj5 silver anniversary edition Jeep showed up in the yard last week, Im tired of dumping coin into these modern "wonders" (wonder what catastrophic failure is designed in to the pos), the auto has been around for 100yrs and the dimwits are making them less reliable, more expensive and difficult to fix everyday.


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#45 toomanytoys84 ONLINE  

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Posted July 15, 2014 - 08:49 PM

I vote abs module. Had this happen to a chevy truck we had at the mine, similar symptoms. Also gappened on my ranger. Almost hit a parked car when the abs kicked on stopping in a parking spot

I'd find a new shop new pads and rotors are probably 180 to 200 bucks and 1 hour labo. 30 min per side.

Edited by toomanytoys84, July 15, 2014 - 08:51 PM.

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