Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Truck Troubles


  • Please log in to reply
73 replies to this topic

#16 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

JD DANNELS

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 2011
  • 3,786 Thanks
  • 3,907 posts
  • Location: Newton.Ia

Posted July 14, 2014 - 07:21 PM

Hey my dad had a simular problem with his 96 chevy . After he replacedthe calipersmy brother asked if he had replaced the brake lines, He said a lot of problems blamed onthe calipers were rubber brake line problems. the rubber lines had collapsed internally and the calipers were not releasing. Once he replaced the rubber brake lines he had no problem.
  • johndeereelfman and boyscout862 have said thanks

#17 trowel OFFLINE  

trowel

    Summer.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5127
  • 4,819 Thanks
  • 4,533 posts
  • Location: ma.

Posted July 14, 2014 - 07:34 PM

Hey my dad had a simular problem with his 96 chevy . After he replacedthe calipersmy brother asked if he had replaced the brake lines, He said a lot of problems blamed onthe calipers were rubber brake line problems. the rubber lines had collapsed internally and the calipers were not releasing. Once he replaced the rubber brake lines he had no problem.

Warped rotors leads back to the brake lines or sensors, if anything i would not be shocked if it was the sensor, if you could shut it off and still drive the truck i would try it.
 
Let the mechanic know what is happening also.

  • johndeereelfman and boyscout862 have said thanks

#18 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

johndeereelfman

    Elfin Majic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3761
  • 5,480 Thanks
  • 2,535 posts
  • Location: Lititz, PA

Posted July 14, 2014 - 07:44 PM

 

Warped rotors leads back to the brake lines or sensors, if anything i would not be shocked if it was the sensor, if you could shut it off and still drive the truck i would try it.
 
Let the mechanic know what is happening also.

 

 

I did let the mechanic know that I was still having trouble, and after I explained that nothing has really changed, he all but called me a liar. He insisted that I couldn't possibly be having trouble as he replaced everything that could be replaced. His next question was when will he be paid for his services? I told him when the truck is fixed, and I don't have to worry about this happening again. He then told me to bring the truck back and he will go over everything again, but I don't know that I want to give him a fourth opportunity. As stated above, I don't think he ever investigated out the problem. He just threw new parts on, trying to eliminate the problem rather than fixing the actual problem. 


  • trowel and boyscout862 have said thanks

#19 trowel OFFLINE  

trowel

    Summer.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5127
  • 4,819 Thanks
  • 4,533 posts
  • Location: ma.

Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:00 PM

I would go for a second opinion and different mechanic, make a few call and hunt around on the computer a bit, these new trucks are electrical nighmares, Dodge is one of the worst.

 

Thus far i have not nailed it yet but the pain is settling in again and i must stop for a little while.


  • johndeereelfman and boyscout862 have said thanks

#20 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:09 PM

Troy, I have read all your posts and I just want to make sure that they replaced the rubber lines that actually attach to the calipers?? It sounds like a collapsed rubber line to me. 


  • GTTinkerer, johndeereelfman, trowel and 1 other said thanks

#21 trowel OFFLINE  

trowel

    Summer.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5127
  • 4,819 Thanks
  • 4,533 posts
  • Location: ma.

Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:13 PM

Yeah, im thinking the rubber line too but to offer another in case is the brake booster behind the master cylinder.


Edited by trowel, July 14, 2014 - 08:13 PM.

  • johndeereelfman and boyscout862 have said thanks

#22 toppop52 ONLINE  

toppop52
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 54420
  • 3,496 Thanks
  • 3,386 posts
  • Location: Lower Eastern Shore of Maryland

Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:17 PM

Your calipers are sticking, that's what causes the hard pedal and overheating of the brake. The question is why? Are you certain the calipers were replaced? Is there any chance that the fluid got contaminated? A few drops of tranny fluid or other liquid will ruin the fluid and cause it to expand when hot and involuntarily apply the brakes through expansion. I had the same brand of tranny and brake fluid once, exactly alike exept the words in small letters id'ing them as brake or transmission fluids. I put about an once of transmission fluid in my truck by accident, the only cure was a new master cylinder and full system bleed.
  • johndeereelfman and boyscout862 have said thanks

#23 trowel OFFLINE  

trowel

    Summer.

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 5127
  • 4,819 Thanks
  • 4,533 posts
  • Location: ma.

Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:18 PM

Here's another fourm, this looks more like your truck's problem, check this out : http://www.google.co...vMX6t-HnTpapl1g


  • johndeereelfman and boyscout862 have said thanks

#24 toppop52 ONLINE  

toppop52
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 54420
  • 3,496 Thanks
  • 3,386 posts
  • Location: Lower Eastern Shore of Maryland

Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:20 PM

A collapsed line should cause the brake to lock all the time not just when hot and should cause pulling to one side, unless you were extremely unlucky and both sides collapsed at the same time.
  • johndeereelfman and boyscout862 have said thanks

#25 refracman OFFLINE  

refracman
  • Member
  • Member No: 10428
  • 41 Thanks
  • 26 posts
  • Location: monclova oh

Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:21 PM

it sounds like the abs/ computer is getting false imputs. take it to a dealer and have them hook it up to the computer.
some times when the rubber lines are old the interior hose will collapse and act as a check valve and not release the presssure. so while they diagnosed the issue correct they did not diagnose the cause of the pressure not relieving.
i have to believe the rotors are warped again also.
one question is this a certified brake shop? I'm asking because the rates seem low.
  • johndeereelfman and boyscout862 have said thanks

#26 TAHOE ONLINE  

TAHOE
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 24522
  • 6,488 Thanks
  • 4,945 posts
  • Location: "Hamiltucky" Ohio

Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:24 PM

I can't offer suggestions on the payment thing, but I have owned a few GM's in my time so.....

 

The symptoms sounds a lot like my parents Dodge 3500 van/motorhome. It sits/sat for most of the time. Back in 05 or 06 we drove it to Tenn and it had same issues. We were fine when we took off, then after driving for a bit, I would get that shaking, especially right after I used the brakes. We got off of East 40 and it shook like crazy. I pulled over, the both rotors looked like NASCAR at Bristol night race, cherry red. We made it back home and I changed everything from rubber hoses out and never had another problem.

You say your fine when you first start out, when fluid is cold? Just as Top stated, fluid is getting hotter the more you use, rubber get hot and soft them collapses when you let off brake essentially keeping calipers locked on.

Even if they replaced it all sounds like there is contamination somewhere or they didn't change what they said. 

I also am going through the ABS issue with my Tahoe. Rust developed on sensor ring and ABS would kick in on dry pavement while slowing down, usually below 15 mph. I pulled ABS for the time being until I get it fixed. 


  • johndeereelfman, boyscout862 and WNYTractorTinkerer have said thanks

#27 JohnWR OFFLINE  

JohnWR
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 34556
  • 322 Thanks
  • 332 posts
  • Location: Middeltown NY

Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:54 PM

Hank, that's a good thought. The mechanic did call me the day I dropped it off, and told me he was having trouble getting the lines to bleed. He wasn't able to get fluid running. Anyway, the puzzling part is, he was going to remove the back drum brakes to see if he could make an adjustment to see if that helps. Not sure what the back drum brakes have to do with the front disk brakes, but I do know he tried something, as my emergency brake is very hard to apply now.

 

This i can answer your rear drums being out of adjustment affects your pedal height and travel properly adjusted drums with good front brakes will leave your pedal high and hard. This has nothing to do with your issue just thought i would explain what he was doing.

 

As for your issue i am no GM tech as i work for toyota but have you taken it to a real dealer yet and not a small mom and pop shop most people don't relies with a factory scan tool even if no codes are present they might find something. Also i would leave the truck with Gm or take a tech on a test drive in the after noon and while making the truck do as you say its doing have the tech record the data on the scan tool you would be amazed what you can learn even if the ECU never detects enough of an issue to set any codes.

I have done the test drive thing with many customers while letting them drive and me recording data and it amazes them all what you can learn.


  • johndeereelfman, sacsr and boyscout862 have said thanks

#28 WNYTractorTinkerer ONLINE  

WNYTractorTinkerer

    Tinker Master

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 10789
  • 8,315 Thanks
  • 4,663 posts
  • Location: Avon, NY

Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:58 PM

My GMC Sierra 2500 HD has the same problem.  I've called GM about the fact that the ABS is turning off my front brakes at slow speeds which I feel is totally unacceptable.  It scares the hell outta me to step on the brake and have it turn off at low speeds because an Wheel speed sensor doesn't send the correct data.  ABS should be shut off @ low speeds period!  I also bought a reader and the dang thing reverses the AWS readings and I replaced the wrong sensor..  Now-  I have the right sensor so it awaits my decision to do the job.  Meanwhile I just pull the ABS fuse and everything works great!

 

ANOTHER thing that plagues GM's is the 'Satan's Battery Drain'  I bought 2 brand new batteries and since it leaves things powered up until the battery is flat one is kaput already.  Nice waste of a 90 amp battery!  WTG GM!!


  • johndeereelfman and boyscout862 have said thanks

#29 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

johndeereelfman

    Elfin Majic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3761
  • 5,480 Thanks
  • 2,535 posts
  • Location: Lititz, PA

Posted July 14, 2014 - 09:25 PM

Here's another fourm, this looks more like your truck's problem, check this out : http://www.google.co...vMX6t-HnTpapl1g

 Wow Trowel, sounds like there is a lot of us that have this problem. Thanks for posting.


  • trowel and boyscout862 have said thanks

#30 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

johndeereelfman

    Elfin Majic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3761
  • 5,480 Thanks
  • 2,535 posts
  • Location: Lititz, PA

Posted July 14, 2014 - 09:37 PM

Some of you guys are talking about the ABS system, and going on unexpectedly. Here is a thought. If my ABS would kick on, especially at lower speeds, wouldn't the indicator light let me know it's activated? I never get any type of warning lights indicating the ABS is on, or there is any type of brake problems. 

 

Another thing to point out is, when Craig and I thought we had the problem fixed yesterday and took the truck for a drive, I drove into a stone parking lot along the way home and locked up the brakes, just to see if the ABS light would come on. We slid pretty good, but no warning light. I put the truck in reverse and locked up the tires again in reverse, but still no warning light. I know I get an indicator light whenever the traction control is activated, and I'm almost certain there is a ABS indicator light, correct? Maybe I'm wrong. I guess I'll have to go through my manual to make sure.

 

You guys are really giving me great ideas in trying to find the solution. Oh, and no I haven't had it to a dealer yet. Right now money is tight so I'm trying to use my resources so I can try and do it myself. I guess if all else fails, I'll have to make an appointment. 

 

I'm going to take my wife's car tomorrow to work, so I won't get to work on the track until tomorrow afternoon when I get home. I think I'll try bleeding the master cylinder and all of the lines to see if that makes a difference. If that doesn't do it, then I'm going to pull the ABS fuse to see if this is where the problem lies. One way or another, we are going to find the problem and get it fixed. I'll keep you posted tomorrow night when I'm done flushing lines.

 

Thanks again guys for all of your help and knowledge. I really appreciate it!  :thumbs:


  • trowel and boyscout862 have said thanks




Top