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#1 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 04:47 PM

Ok guys, I need some serious help. I have a 2007 GMC Sierra 1500 pickup, and two weeks ago it started having brake problems. I took it to the garage, and the mechanic replaced the brake pads. Cost me $130.00. A day later, I drove it to work in the morning and didn't have any troubles. Later that afternoon on my way home, the truck started bucking while braking, and eventually the brakes started to stick. I called the garage and was told to bring it in again. The next day I picked up the truck, this time with new rotors. Cost me an additional $200.00. Again, I drove the truck to work the next morning without any problems. Later that afternoon, about half way home, the brakes started sticking again. BAD! I dropped the truck off at the garage again, and he worked on it for two days. When I got the truck back, I was told that he replaced the brake pads again, replaced the rotors again, installed new brake hoses, and had to add a quart of brake fluid. He also told me that he had a hard time getting the brake lines to pump up and fill with fluid. So I basically got a whole new front end as far as brakes. This time the mechanic wants $640.00. As of now, I have yet to pay it.

 

The next day I drove the truck again to work, again without any problems. While at work, my wife calls me and tells me she lost the brakes on her 1999 Buick Park Avenue. I left work early to meet her, had my Dad help tow her home, then took my truck to run some errands. While returning home from my errands, the truck brakes started sticking again, worse then ever before. When I got home I had smoke rolling out from under the front wheel wells. Pretty sure I warped the rotors again. This past weekend, fellow member ckjakline (Craig) helped me bleed the front lines going to the brakes, we blead the front lines going to the master cylinder, and cracked open the front lines where they connect to the ABS system. We also pulled the master cylinder out from the baffle just in case there was air in there. We put everything back together, took it for a test drive and everything seemed to working great. Yesterday I took the family to church in the truck, which is about a twenty minute drive each way, and again, no problems at all. 

 

Well, tonight while coming home, I got about half way home when the brakes started sticking again, or at least that's what I think it is. Oddly though, while I was traveling around 35 miles per hour, the truck started bucking as if I had bubbles on the tread of the tires. Not side-to-side like you would if you had a tire out of balance, but more front to back bucking. There was no wobble in the steering wheel at all, but the seats were wobbling big time! Almost gave me a liver quiver. While braking I left go of the steering wheel, just to see if it pulls to one side or the other, and there was no pulling whatsoever. 

 

So what is you opinion as far as my problem? Should I pay the garage the $640.00 for something that still isn't fixed right? Right now I'm as hot as the front wheels on my truck, and I'm out of ideas as to where to start looking again. Could it be my ABS acting up? Could it be my 7 year old master cylinder went bad? If I pull the ABS fuse, would that by-pass the ABS braking system to try and eliminate things? Can the temperature of the day effect the braking system this bad? It seems to only happen in the afternoons when the sun is at it's highest point. 

 

Oh, as far as my wife's car? It turned out to be a split brake hose on the left front wheel. Replaced the line and added fluid for less than $25.00. Again, Thanks to Craig and his help, her car was the easy fix!


Edited by johndeereelfman, July 14, 2014 - 04:53 PM.

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#2 dthomp17 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 05:34 PM

Sounds like the only thing that hasn't been replaced are the calipers and that might be a potential problem.  If I understand correctly, you have already spent $330 and the garage still wants an additional $640?  That's absurd. I would be extremely upset and consider filing some type of complaint with the BBB on this.  Does the $640 include charges again for new pads and rotors?  I would be looking into what my legal options were and possibly taking him to Small Claims Court to get it resolved.


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#3 js5020 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 05:35 PM

I have little patience with these newer vehicles but are you continually getting air in the brake system?  Reason asked is these trucks have a very poor routing of the brake lines and the lines themselves are junk and rot out quickly.  I just had to do dads 06 with less than 50K on it this winter.  It started with one line blowing out and the rest one at a time starting to leak, I finally replaced every line for him with nickel/copper lines but what a chore. 


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#4 js5020 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 05:41 PM

Sounds like the only thing that hasn't been replaced are the calipers and that might be a potential problem.  If I understand correctly, you have already spent $330 and the garage still wants an additional $640?  That's absurd. I would be extremely upset and consider filing some type of complaint with the BBB on this.  Does the $640 include charges again for new pads and rotors?  I would be looking into what my legal options were and possibly taking him to Small Claims Court to get it resolved.

I have to concur some of this unfortunately needs to be eaten by the shop, they just threw parts at it and proclaimed FIXED when it was not and their incompetence/lack of resolving the real problem never occurred and still is not repaired,,,,,, the 2nd round of the same new parts should be on their dime, and even some of the labor in my opinion.


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#5 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 05:46 PM

calipers are hanging up.... need replaced.  yeah it does sound like the shop is charging you for parts twice. Even in a shop you should be able to get pads rotors rubber hoses and calipers done for <$640.


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#6 WNYTractorTinkerer OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 05:51 PM

calipers are hanging up.... need replaced.  yeah it does sound like the shop is charging you for parts twice. Even in a shop you should be able to get pads rotors rubber hoses and calipers done for <$640.

GMC calipers stick on a lot of vehicles.   :wallbanging: 

 

The best way is to replace them!  Do it now while you have everything else new.  Shop around to get the best price/warranty.  I just replaced one on my wife's van..  Cost me ~$60.  I do my own work so the labor is free!  I had to get someone's else foot to bleed the new one was all..


Edited by WNYTractorTinkerer, July 14, 2014 - 05:52 PM.

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#7 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 05:52 PM

Sure sounds like caliper issues to me.  My right front on my F250 did similar a few years ago, and oddly enough, didn't pull to the right as you'd expect.  I was smoking my brakes as well.  New caliper & brake pads, and I've been fine since.  When this happened to me, I was in town, so called around & found a caliper in stock.  I let my rotor cool, drove the mile to the store, then put the new caliper on right there in their parking lot.

  I don't think you should pay for the 2nd set of pads or rotors, or the labor to put them in. It should have been done right the 1st time!


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#8 HANKG OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 05:52 PM

It  sounds to me that the so called mechanic you brought it to was not able to bleed the brake lines all the way maybe because of a stripped bleeder and air remains in the system at any rate I would inform him of his impending court date


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#9 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 05:55 PM

Pulled these of a fourm, some of the things i read sounds like what yours is doing but then again the shaking could mean something else.

 

 

Hope this helps, will continue to look.

 

here's one -

 

 

I just had an accident resulting from a brake failure with my 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 truck. I was making a left hand turn into a parking stall (was going about 5 mph) and when I pressed on the brake pedal my vehicle did not stop. My truck hopped the curb and went down a slight hill and rammed into a retaining wall. When I pressed on the brakes they went lower to the floor than normal. I had no apparent warning of this impending brake failure (no check engine light, brake squealing, etc.). This is the first time I had this happen with the truck. The officer that did the accident report had me back out my vehicle and at this time the brakes worked fine and I still had no check engine light on.

The kicker is I had a recall service performed on my truck not more than six weeks to clean the front wheel sensors. The recall dealt with a problem where the ABS would turn on during low speed brake applications between 3.7 mph to 10 mph. I am not sure if they did the cleaning properly, but it was similar to the consequence that was listed in the recall of the braking distance increasing as a result of the ABS being activated. If I would of been on flatter land then I do not believe I would have had this problem with my truck.

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems
I own a 2003 Silverado that has intermittent brake failure problems . The dealer has repaired this time and time again but the problem persists . The dealer and now GM say that this is a normal function for this vehicle , but now the brake pedal goes to the floor and although they are telling me it is safe to drive I am refusing . This truck sits in my garage .

I found over 100 similar complaints on the NHTSA web site , some involving accidents with injuries and deaths .

Does anyone have any advice . This truck has 48000 KM on it .
 

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Comments
  •  
    I was wondeing if any one could help me out on this i hit a rock like a year ago and as the time went by i starting hearing sweaking form the rear passinger tire i went to places and they said it was a bent axle well the sound has gotton way worse but when i hit the brakes it goes away so i dont know what it is can someone help thanks.
     
  •  
    Yea i have the same thing when i hit a bump when i go to hit the brakes and they told me its has something to do with the sensor and they fixed it and it hasent done it since then
     
  •  
    eric62 Posts: 1
    Changed master cylinder thinking that may be the problem, but pedal still soft and goes to floor. Mechanic thinks it may be abs module? Can this be bypassed? Suggestions???
     
  •  
    I just had my mechanic replace my brake rotors and pads on my rear wheels. Almost immediately I noticed a sound coming from my rear wheels. Took it back to my mechanic and he tells me my emergency brake pad came loose and was rattling around in my wheel. Question: Did my mechanic have to remove the emergency brake assembly to replace my rotors and pads on my initial visit? :confuse:
     
  •  
    weverts Posts: 24
    Yes. The rear rotors have the barking brake on the inside or back side of your rotors. The parking brake shoes operate similar to the old drums whereas they push out on the internal surface of the drum which is actually the inside component of your rotors.

    here's a picture of a slotted rear rotor where you can see the internal drum surface.
    PWRSlot_325.jpg
     
  •  
    The brake bleeding procedure in my"96
    ' book(Dealer "tech." manuel)includes pumping the pedal and cracking open and closing in succession, each fitting on all hydraulic components, working your way back to and including the master cylinder, untill all air is bled out. Don't forget to use something to prevent brake fluid from sraying all over the paint and yourself."TRY IT! YOU'LL LIKE IT!
     
  •  
    I experianced some thing like that, cruising on the highway for a long way with out using the brakes, when I applied the brakes, the pedal went way low. I think I pumped the pedal before it bottomed, however on the second pump I had brakes. These symptoms repeated whenever I was on a long high way cruise. So I would apply the brakes every so often, (I'm cheap) until I replaced the rotors. With new rotors Inever had the problem again. Runout,jouncing,etc. can cause some calipers, more then others, to retract the pistons enough that the brake pedal will depress frieghteningly low before the brakes are applied if at all on the first brake application.
     
  •  
    I replaced my front rotors,pads,caliper guide o-rings,cleaned all "sliding"surfaces and lubed the guide pins. When driving,I found myself smelling somebody riding with their parking brake on way to often. So I jacked up my front and spun my front wheels-free spinning-drove truck still smelling fillet-ala-brakes. Checked rotor temp. after coming home using very light brakes. One rotor-525F-other-675F.The caliper pistons retracted as caliper pistons usually do.I replaced the calipers with "Cardo" rebuilts. 80,000 later, still O/K. P.S. 120,000 and still original untouched rear brakes.
     
  •  
    I just replaced my rear rotors and pads as well. What happens is the emergency brake, if not properly adjusted, wears a groove into the drum and prohibits the rotor from pulling off -- you basically need to finesse it off and if that doesn't work -- pound it off. If the guy whacked it with a hammer, etc. to get the rotor off he probably broke the e-brake shoe retainer clip. If he didn't replace the clip, that would cause the ebrake shoe to rattle around inside the drum.
     
  •  
    Hey Mcleand,
    I have a 2003 sierra slt
    Conserning your brake problem whit the truck,I had the same problem whit the brake pedal going to the floor and after (quite a few trips to the garage) Finaly they changed the "Brake Booster" It did fix the problem whit the peddal going to the floor but still today I have problems whit the anti-lock not working properly...it takes the truck an exagerated distance to stop on a snowy road whit me pushing like crazy on the pedal whitch is as stiff as pushing on a cement wall(and you can just hear the anti-lock humming wide open)...And you know what! All of this is just normal operation of these trucks,everything is normal if you ask a GM Teck.And this is litterely the very tip of the iceburg whit my truck....lots and lots of trips to the garage and lots of headakes and frustrations to go whit it(major lemond) Hope you have some luck getting to the bottom of your problems.
    I`m getting rid of mine in about a year when the worth of the truck is equal to what I owe...and never again will I even buy a Delco Spark plug. Gm has a very bad quality system and it shows and they dont back up there product after its sold,I had to fight whit gm canada and garages since i got this 60 000$ piece of junk on wheels.(what a waste)
    sinceraly,
    :lemon:
     
  •  
    ake41 Posts: 2
     
     
  •  
    jake41 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Silverado 1500 4x4, I have been experiencing a front brake rattle when drive rough spots in the road with my foot off the brake, when I apply slight pedal pressure the rattle is gone. I have taken to the dealer multiple time with no results, they say from temp changes to lubrications of the slides. My warranty is almost done..I need suggestions..I sounds like tin can in my front end.
     
  •  
    I just had an accident resulting from a brake failure with my 2000 Chevy Silverado 1500 truck. I was making a left hand turn into a parking stall (was going about 5 mph) and when I pressed on the brake pedal my vehicle did not stop. My truck hopped the curb and went down a slight hill and rammed into a retaining wall. When I pressed on the brakes they went lower to the floor than normal. I had no apparent warning of this impending brake failure (no check engine light, brake squealing, etc.). This is the first time I had this happen with the truck. The officer that did the accident report had me back out my vehicle and at this time the brakes worked fine and I still had no check engine light on.

    The kicker is I had a recall service performed on my truck not more than six weeks to clean the front wheel sensors. The recall dealt with a problem where the ABS would turn on during low speed brake applications between 3.7 mph to 10 mph. I am not sure if they did the cleaning properly, but it was similar to the consequence that was listed in the recall of the braking distance increasing as a result of the ABS being activated. If I would of been on flatter land then I do not believe I would have had this problem with my truck.

    Has anyone else had a similar experience? I am currently waiting for an official GM investigation of my brakes. I will report back after I get the results.
     
  •  
    Did you ever get an answer to this question? We are experiencing the same issue on our 2004 Sierra 1500 4X4?
     
  •  
    Hi everyone,

    Just like post # 14, my ABS has been kicking in just as I'm about to make a complete stop (on dry surfaces) Thankfully, it won't do this on higher speeds. Before I send my 4WD 2000 Silverado in for repairs, is there something I can do to remedy this? Perhaps a simple sensor replacement?

    (FYI)I got the recall done on this about a year ago.

    Thanks
     
  •  
    steve142 Posts: 1
    phxdenise/jake41: Have you had your pads replaced lately? If so, I have an '02 Z71 with the same problem - which appeared shortly after the dealer replaced the front pads. After about a year or so of folks trying various remedies, I found a service manager at another dealer who knows trucks. Some Chevy dealers apparently use lesser-quality (and cheaper) replacement pads. The rattle on mine was the result of the lesser-quality pad - which is supposed to be a harder substance and last longer. I had the more expensive pad installed and the rattle is gone.
     
     
  • No. I didn't change my pads. The problem started all of a sudden last week.

    In the meantime, I went to the dealer and (of course) they wouldn't honor the recall that was done back in Feb 05 for the same problem. They (at the time) took 15 minutes to "fix" the problem. Whetever they did, they did fast only this time, they want to charge me for 1.5 hour labour and (get this) $300.00 CDN for each sensors!!

    Needless to say that this is a total rip off. These sensors are not even available in other part stores. It's a part reserved (so I'm told) exclusively for dealers. I don't get this one bit.

    Anyway, I will not pay $600.00 + for this repair that I believe is useless to start with. I never believed in ABS and I still don't. MY work around, I unpluged the stupid things. However, If I remove the fuse, both the ABS and the emergency parking light stay on. So by unpluging the sensors, only the ABS light remain on. To fix this, I removed the dashboard, and removed the LED light for the ABS. End of story. My truck now stops on a dime and no more pulsating pedal.

    It's shameful to have to resort to such a drastic so called "repair". I'm not satisfied but at least, I'm $600.00 bucks richer.

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#10 Trav1s OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 06:09 PM

Calipers would also be my guess from what you have mentioned.  I think the $640 for the second repair is crap as that did not get to the bottom of the problem.  What kind of pads did they install?


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#11 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 06:34 PM

Sounds like the only thing that hasn't been replaced are the calipers and that might be a potential problem.  If I understand correctly, you have already spent $330 and the garage still wants an additional $640?  That's absurd. I would be extremely upset and consider filing some type of complaint with the BBB on this.  Does the $640 include charges again for new pads and rotors?  I would be looking into what my legal options were and possibly taking him to Small Claims Court to get it resolved.

 

Yes the calipers were replaced. My bad, I thought I typed that in. Just to recap, these are the things that were replaced, along with the amount charged for each item:

 

First set of brake pads: $130.00 (paid)

First set of rotors: $200.00 (not paid)

Second set of brake pads: (no charge)

Second set of rotors: (no charge)

New calipers: $200.00 (not paid)

New front brake hoses: $80.00 (not paid)

1 quart of brake fluid: $20.00 (not paid)

2 hours of labor: $140.00 (not paid, and supposedly being generous as he states he worked 10 hours trying to figure out the problem)

 

From what I can tell, I will most likely need another set of rotors, and possibly another set of brake shoes. If indeed this is the case, I refuse to pay for them. I'm still finding it hard to believe that the brake hoses cost $80.00. I do know that the brake fluid is well over the amount he paid, as I just bought a quart for my wife's car, and it cost me $6.49. 


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#12 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 06:39 PM

Calipers would also be my guess from what you have mentioned.  I think the $640 for the second repair is crap as that did not get to the bottom of the problem.  What kind of pads did they install?

 

Good question. The first set of pads were the life-time brake pads which are hard, but give off black dust big time. They also screech like heck too. My wheels were clean when I took the truck to him the first time. The next day when I started experiencing trouble again, my wheels were as black as the tires. Although they are hard and usually ruin your rotors over time, these things were wore down to almost nothing. Note sure what brand he used this last time, but I don't have near the amount of brake dust like I did before.



#13 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 06:43 PM

Trowel, I read your one post that a guy had to replace the brake sensors. I'm wondering if this might be my problem.

 

I've only had the truck for four years, and I really like the truck. Up until this point, I have never had a problem with it. Well, not until last October when I had to get a cylinder knock sensor replaced, that is located under the manifold. That was a hefty garage bill. $600.00 labor just to remove the manifold. 

 

All I know is, this brake problem is really starting to get old fast. The part that I just don't understand is why it only does it in the afternoon?



#14 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 06:51 PM

It  sounds to me that the so called mechanic you brought it to was not able to bleed the brake lines all the way maybe because of a stripped bleeder and air remains in the system at any rate I would inform him of his impending court date

 

Hank, that's a good thought. The mechanic did call me the day I dropped it off, and told me he was having trouble getting the lines to bleed. He wasn't able to get fluid running. Anyway, the puzzling part is, he was going to remove the back drum brakes to see if he could make an adjustment to see if that helps. Not sure what the back drum brakes have to do with the front disk brakes, but I do know he tried something, as my emergency brake is very hard to apply now.



#15 johndeereelfman OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 07:02 PM

I guess I should also mention, that my brake pedal isn't always the same. When the brakes are free, the truck brakes as normal. Pedal usually goes about half way down. When the brakes start to stick however, sometimes the pedal goes half way down, other times I barely have to touch the pedal as it gets very hard to push. 

 

Just to give you an example as to how bad things are, I literally have to give the truck acceleration to go down a steep grade of a hill. If I let off the accelerator half way down the hill, the truck will come to a complete stop, not immediate, but within twenty yards distance. My truck gets 16.4 miles to the gallon, which I consider is pretty good. My work is 21 miles from home, and a full tank will last me seven days. Just the other day I used almost a quarter tank of gas just to go eight miles, That's how much the truck is pushing when the brakes decide to stick. 


Edited by johndeereelfman, July 14, 2014 - 07:03 PM.





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