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Yahooo ... Something To Work On

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#16 jdcrawler OFFLINE  



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Posted July 14, 2014 - 03:58 PM

Nice tractor and stuff, But I am wondering if you could post some pictures of the front of the truck. Looks like a 63, Chev or GMC ? I like those old trucks. My father had 1/2 tons, 61, 62 and 64 which I drove. Thanks, Noel


Here's a link for you , Noel



Edited by jdcrawler, July 14, 2014 - 04:00 PM.

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#17 propane1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 04:07 PM

Thanks. Nice truck. I was a little of on my guess on what year it was.  I learned how to drive in fathers 58, 1/2 chev, 6 cylinder, 3 speed on the column in a hay field.  Ah, the good old days. Noel   

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#18 glgrumpy OFFLINE  


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Posted July 14, 2014 - 04:17 PM

This is a neat project really, odd coming from me, the Hater of two-wheel tractors! Ha! But this thing has some real Size to it! I like the truck too, used to play with early 50's ones for quite awhile. I keep thinking of getting an old truck for a flatbed again, would have to be little bigger I think for me. I see you have some neat plank ramps there. I did that one time for pair for me with the turned 2x4 and they worked well. Those beds always end up high on truck, the worst part, and you need long ramps to work with them. I used to find a ditch or bank most times to back mine too, felt safer, but not always that option at all places.

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#19 jdcrawler OFFLINE  



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Posted July 14, 2014 - 04:56 PM

This is my second "two wheeler".    I only got the first one because someone had already modified it.

It was a sad looking little tractor that needed someone to love it and make it into a nice looking and useful tractor again.


I don't hate two wheelers but I do like a tractor that I can ride on and these previously modified tractors are interesting to me to see what improvements that I can make to them.

It also keeps them from being scrapped out.

Edited by jdcrawler, July 14, 2014 - 05:17 PM.

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#20 Lauber1 OFFLINE  


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Posted July 14, 2014 - 06:52 PM

if you keep the engine, you will find it to be  a modern marvel. I had several twins overs the yrs and enjoyed how easy to work on they were. One of their weak points is the oil pump, which seems to crack along it barrel. The pump only pumps oil up to a tray at the crank height, then slingers throw it around found there. The rods are babbitt so they wont take to no oil for very long.

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#21 jdcrawler OFFLINE  



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Posted July 15, 2014 - 10:30 AM

How about a walk around the tractor this morning ?

The rear axle is made from a piece of steel channel with a piece of pipe welded on each end for the wheel spindle mounts.


The spindles are made out of 3/4 inch steel rod with pipe "T" fitting welded on for lining up the steering arm and tie rod arms.


The steering is an old rack and pinion unit.


The tie-rod from one end of the rack and pinion is connected to the steering arm on the axle.


Throttle cable lever is mounted on the right side under the gas tank.


The clutch is operated by this piece of pipe mounted on the right side.


The individual breaks are each operated by pedals mounted on both sides of the frame.


On the left side of the steering wheel, there is a lever mounted to the frame that was used to raise and lower the snow plow.


A cable is attached to this lever and runs up thru a pulley that is mounted to the side of the transmission.


This cable then runs thru another pulley that is mounted on the side of the engine.
It was then attached the the snow plow frame that was mounted under the tractor.


The magneto is timed with the engine and mounted in place.
The sheet metal air shroud is set in place on the top of the engine.
This shroud needs some repair work done on the front flange but the bolt in the top will hold it on good enough to test run the engine.


The intake and exhaust manifolds are mounted in place.
I'm missing the small brass high speed mixture screw fitting that goes in the bottom of the carburetor.   
It looks like that is the only thing keeping me from seeing if this engine will run.


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#22 jdcrawler OFFLINE  



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Posted July 16, 2014 - 08:10 AM

I'm sure whoever modified this was very proud of it and it is obvious that they used it because the cable for raising the snow plow has worn a good size groove in the side of the pulley bracket.


Taking into consideration that this was most likely built back in the 40's or 50's, it actually is not that bad of a job.
The average guy did not have all the fancy tools and equipment that we have access to today.

My Shaw two wheel tractor that was modified into a rider was not very usable as it was designed and built.
Even though this modification is crude, it is usable just like it is.
I have seen worse workmanship on some of the modifications that are being made on garden tractors today.  

Searching thru the internet, I have discovered  that the Standard Twin two wheel tractor is one that several people have made into a riding tractor over the years.

These three all have a similar design.
The engine is unbolted and moved out front and connected to the transmission by a torque tube with a drive shaft inside.




A lot of thought was put into building this Standard Twin.
It looks like it is mounted on a Struck crawler chassis.


Whoever built this one is good at shaping metal to make this streamlined tractor.





As pretty as that streamlined tractor is, I like tractors that the engine and all the machinery are out in the open.
This one really impressed me.  A simple but very effective design.





In re-engineering the tractor that I have, I'm thinking of keeping this design with the tractor unit in front and the framework extending out the back and
I'm thinking of putting a dump bed on the back.

This modification is of a similar design with a dump bed.
It is unique in that the operator rides up on the tractor unit and it does not use a steering wheel.
Turning the tractor is done by using the individual breaks to stop one wheel while the other wheel keeps driving.



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#23 Talntedmrgreen OFFLINE  


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Posted July 16, 2014 - 09:01 AM

Your small wheels appear to be the same as those used on reel mowers of the 60's as well.  I have also seen them on small riding mowers.

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#24 daytime dave OFFLINE  

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Posted July 16, 2014 - 09:10 AM

I'm glad you have something to work on and keep you busy.  It looks like a great project.

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#25 jdcrawler OFFLINE  



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Posted July 17, 2014 - 05:06 PM

When I got this tractor, my plans were to build either an articulating tractor or a rear steering tractor with a dump box on the back.

I lined up a pair of 7.50x18 inch tractor tires with the correct style lugs for this age of a tractor and was searching for the correct wheels to go on the Standard Twin tractor axles.
Then I will have to come up with a pair of tires and wheels for the back that will look proper for the age of this tractor.
With those thoughts in mind, I started thinking about just how much money am I going to be investing in this project ?

I bought the dump bed that will fit good with the tractor so that much is already spent but this can easily be made into just what it is  ..  a dump trailer.

........  Time to slow down and re-evaluate this tractor . ........

Looking back thru the photos of other modified Standard Twin tractors, I'm intrigued with this one.


The drive assembly from a Standard Twin tractor is a good choice for building a crawler.
It has strong individual breaks that are 4 inch diameter and 1-1/2 inch wide.
It has a planetary gear assembly so when the break is applied to one wheel the other wheel keeps turning.


This crawler modification looks like it is done well and the only thing that I would question about it is the choice of tracks.

These look like tracks off a Struck crawler.  
The struck is a really small crawler and the tracks aren't built very strong.
This is what a struck crawler looks like.


With these smaller tracks, the engine and transmission sort of overwhelm the crawler.

To me, a much better choice of tracks would be from an Agricat model-F crawler.
They are about 1-1/2 foot longer than the Struck assembly and the sprockets are about twice the diameter and much thicker.

This is a view of tracks for a Agricat model-C.
The model-C has 1 bottom roller in the center and the model-F has 2 bottom rollers.
This makes the model-f about a foot longer than the track in this photo.


This is a Agricat model-F.


.....  Now it just so happens that I already have parts of an Agricat model-F crawler that I picked up last summer.
The transmission and clutch assembly are missing and they are almost imposable to find so this crawler is effectively only good for parts.  

Here is the main body of the crawler.


The front rollers.


The tracks.  They have a few stiff joints that will need to be freed up but are otherwise in good condition.


Springs and brackets for mounting and maintaining tension on the front rollers.


Inner and outer track side rails.



This crawler also came with a front dozer blade with power angle.


A ripper for the rear.


An some of the hydraulics.


With all these parts already at my disposal, I have decided to make this Viking tractor into a crawler.

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#26 KennyP OFFLINE  



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Posted July 17, 2014 - 06:35 PM

This should be very good to follow! Thanks Ray!

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#27 Kfs35 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2014 - 07:24 PM

I really like the new direction this project is going! It will be an interesting build to watch.

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#28 olcowhand ONLINE  


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Posted July 17, 2014 - 09:14 PM

You go Ray!  Nice project!  

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#29 Texas Deere and Horse ONLINE  

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Posted July 18, 2014 - 01:49 AM

Ray, this will be another great project.


On a side note, I was going to suggest a small 6-12 Allis Chalmers rear steer would be cool since they articulated at the front of the torq tube going to the rear axle and seat.


AC_6_12.jpg 6-12 Allis 01.jpg Allis 6-12.jpg



Whatever you build will be very cool when your done with it. Good Luck !!

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#30 jdcrawler OFFLINE  



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Posted July 27, 2014 - 09:26 AM

Because I'm going to build this into a crawler, I went ahead and removed the steering assembly.
The rack and pinion steering is very worn out so it is just as well that I don't need it.



I found a gas tank that will fit right in with building a crawler.
It is made out of thick steel and weighs 22 pounds by itself.


I was also able to find a high speed mixture screw that fit the threads in the bottom of the carburetor.


I have been trying to get it running but haven't been able to so far.
It has compression and there is fuel getting to the carb and the points and distributor cap have been cleaned  but it won't fire.
The plug wires are the old stranded wire type and the terminals are soldered on.
there is no spark when holding one of these plug wires about 1/16 inch off the side of a plug.
I tried it with a new stranded wire plug wire right from the coil.
Turning the engine over 25 or 30 times, it produced a real weak spark about 3 times.

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