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Yahooo ... Something To Work On


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#1 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:23 AM

Ive been going batty with all my projects and garage equipment in storage, leaving me with nothing to work on.

Last week my friend Jerome was able to save this tractor from going to the scrap yard but neither of us had any idea of what it was.
With help from forum members we found out that it is a Viking two wheel tractor that someone has made into a rider.

Here are the photos that Jerome posted to find out what it is.

1-Vikingtractor_zps724ceb2a.jpg  

2-Vikingtractor_zpsd086a2ae.jpg

3-Vikingtractor_zps8c1cef12.jpg


Here are a couple of old advertisements for the Viking tractors.

Viking_zps8d5a0460.jpg

Viking-E_zpsf0b3aea0.jpg


And some tractors.

Viking-2_zps28c3eaf8.jpg

Vikingtractor-2_zpsa4b470f6.jpg

Viking1939_zps5502a7e0.jpg



Marie and I drove over to Jerome's on Sunday to pick up this tractor.
As is often the case, I ended up bringing back more stuff than just the tractor.
Here is the truck all loaded up.

4_zps8afc3572.jpg

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As I did with that Shaw two wheel tractor that had been converted to a rider, I plan on re-engineering this tractor and keeping it as a rider.
I told Jerome that I was thinking of putting a dump trailer on the back of this so he fixed me up with this nice old trailer box.

7_zps7df27213.jpg

The tailgate has two spring pins on the left side.
If you release the bottom pin, the tailgate then pivots from the top pins and opens at the bottom.
If you release both pins, then you can swing the tailgate out and remove it altogether.

8_zps87b0fac2.jpg

The underside has two support struts on it.

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This homemade snow plow came with the tractor.

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The gas tank is missing the neck for the cap and is rusty inside.
The other piece of metal is the air shroud for the top of the engine.
I was glad to see this as things like this usually end up dissapearing once they are removed from the engine.

12_zpsc7d7399f.jpg


There was an extra steering wheel that needs a little work but isn't too bad.
It's certainly better than the steering wheel that is on the tractor now.

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A few levers that can always be used on something.
The lever on the far right, matches the lever that is on the tractor now to raise and lower the snow plow.

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A pair of nice wheel hubs with tapered bearings.  
I may use these for the rear wheel hubs under the dump box.
An extra tool bar lift spring for my Ridemaster tractor.

15_zps44c23596.jpg  


A bucket of parts.

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Here's what was in the bucket.  
Looks like all the missing parts off the engine are here.

17_zps993f321a.jpg


That gets us down to unloading the tractor. ......
When we loaded it, the right rear wheel was froze up and wouldn't turn.
With three of us loading the tractor that wasn't a problem but could be a problem with unloading by my self.

I sprayed the hub with Brakeaway and let it set while I ate supper.
Then I went out and worked the wheel back and forth until it freed up.
Here it is starting down the ramps.

19_zpsdb90fafd.jpg

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On the ground.

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The tractor takes up so much room in the garage that I don't hardly have any room to move around it.

22_zps076ab952.jpg


Edited by jdcrawler, July 14, 2014 - 08:27 AM.

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#2 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:50 AM

Cool, can't wait to see how this turns out, the Shaw tractor is a little peach.


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#3 hvychevy2o OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:57 AM

great job on saving another one i love what u did with the do all


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#4 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 08:57 AM

Now, if you just had some tools to work with! If you look along the ledge by the valve covers you should be able to find the original serial number and will be able to date it.


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#5 hamman ONLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 09:06 AM

Looks like a great project. Careful Ray, once you get neck deep into that project you will see that garage filling up again and then you are going to need to make a few more trips to the the new place to unload and come back again. Then again maybe once you get neck deep in this one someone will come and buy your house so you can make that move south!  I guess any way you look at at it's a win win situation. We win watching you make another build. Good luck. Anxiously watching this one.                                                                                                      Roger.


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#6 jd.rasentrac ONLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 09:16 AM

wow, fine - great tractor!


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#7 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 10:04 AM

Now, if you just had some tools to work with! If you look along the ledge by the valve covers you should be able to find the original serial number and will be able to date it.

 

I have a small tool box with wrenches, sockets and stuff so about all I can do here is try to get it running.  

Still, it gives me something to work on for awhile and that is a very welcomed change.

 

The number looks like  309CH983  ?


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#8 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 11:23 AM

I have a small tool box with wrenches, sockets and stuff so about all I can do here is try to get it running.  

Still, it gives me something to work on for awhile and that is a very welcomed change.

 

The number looks like  309CH983  ?

309 indicates 1939. I would have thought the letters would have been CF as that's the model but maybe I'm thinking wrong too.


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#9 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 11:27 AM

309 indicates 1939. I would have thought the letters would have been CF as that's the model but maybe I'm thinking wrong too.

 

Thanks Doug for this information.

I'm guessing at the "H" as it was hard to read so it is most likely actually a "F".



#10 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 11:34 AM

I need some help with the carb.

At first I thought all the parts were here.

 

23.JPG

 

 

with the carb assembled, I tried to install the high speed mixture screw in the bottom and it won't thread in.

The brass nut that screws into the bottom of the carb does not have any threads in it for the mixture screw.

The bottom of the carb only has the jet screwed into it.

 

What am I missing here ?

 

24.JPG



#11 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 11:35 AM

There is a Standard Twin manual here: http://gardentractor...nstructionspdf/  that should help you. All the workings will be the same. The Viking just had the sheet metal enclosure. I take it this is what you were looking for the wheels for? Have the axles been modified?


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#12 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 11:45 AM

There should be a brass piece with a hex in the middle and threads on both ends. It will have internal threads for the screw to go into. One end screws in the carb and the nut screws on the other end with packing inside to keep the gas from leaking out around the stem. Below is an excerpt from a post over on Smokstak about the carb kit. I haven't personally verified this. Our very own Ben at Old Paths equipment has the head gaskets if you need them. Don't know if he can help with the carb or not.

 

"where did you find the carb kit"? In an old thread here on the forum, someone had posted that the Zenith R20T was an identical carb to what was use on the Standard Twin. McDonald Carb and Ignition has rebuild kits in stock for this model. $24.99.
 


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#13 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 11:54 AM

 The Viking just had the sheet metal enclosure. I take it this is what you were looking for the wheels for? Have the axles been modified?

 

Yes.    I'm getting a pair of good used tires that are for 18 inch rims.

 

tires-2.jpg tires.jpg

 

 

The steel wheels were cut off this and left a couple of inches of the spokes on the hubs.

They welded the car wheels to the spoke stubs.

I'm going to get a set of 18 inch rim blanks with out any centers.

Then I'll make new spokes and put together my own spoke wheels for this tractor.

 

25.JPG



#14 jdcrawler OFFLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 11:57 AM

There should be a brass piece with a hex in the middle and threads on both ends. It will have internal threads for the screw to go into. One end screws in the carb and the nut screws on the other end with packing inside to keep the gas from leaking out around the stem. Below is an excerpt from a post over on Smokstak about the carb kit. I haven't personally verified this. Our very own Ben at Old Paths equipment has the head gaskets if you need them. Don't know if he can help with the carb or not.

 

"where did you find the carb kit"? In an old thread here on the forum, someone had posted that the Zenith R20T was an identical carb to what was use on the Standard Twin. McDonald Carb and Ignition has rebuild kits in stock for this model. $24.99.
 

 

Thank you.   Seams that I'm missing that hex piece.



#15 propane1 ONLINE  

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Posted July 14, 2014 - 03:40 PM

Nice tractor and stuff, But I am wondering if you could post some pictures of the front of the truck. Looks like a 63, Chev or GMC ? I like those old trucks. My father had 1/2 tons, 61, 62 and 64 which I drove. Thanks, Noel


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