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Mtd 990? Need Another Set Of Eyes, Please.


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#61 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2014 - 05:17 AM

If the pump is dry you will hear the carrier pins as you spin the shaft.

MTD122.jpg


Lost Pup,

Do you recommend pulling the next housing off with the shaft in place or pulling the shaft before removing the housing? Thanks.

#62 VTXrider ONLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2014 - 06:47 AM

Taking the transmission apart is time for caution. Here is a repair instruction PDF. There are two Eaton manuals listed in the MTD manuals section also.

Attached Files


Edited by VTXrider, October 16, 2014 - 06:52 AM.

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#63 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2014 - 07:07 AM

Taking the transmission apart is time for caution. Here is a repair instruction PDF. There are two Eaton manuals listed in the MTD manuals section also.


I must say, I'm a healthy dose of scared and curious all at the same time. Thanks for the manual. With a little patience and great guidance from those who have gone before me I hope for success.

#64 Lost Pup OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2014 - 10:08 AM

Are you sure it's a non runner ?
Open it only if needed.
I believe the most cost effective method is to pick up a used Eaton.
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#65 Lost Pup OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2014 - 10:10 AM

Lost Pup,
Do you recommend pulling the next housing off with the shaft in place or pulling the shaft before removing the housing? Thanks.


You would have to look at my thread over at my tractor forum to see the sequence I followed breaking it down.
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#66 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2014 - 10:23 AM

Are you sure it's a non runner ?
Open it only if needed.
I believe the most cost effective method is to pick up a used Eaton.


It is a runner. The problem is that the sound I'm hearing was not there before I started work to removing the yoke. My yoke was stuck hard and fast so it took quite a bit of work to get it removed and my fear is that I dislodged something in the process. I've already priced out a used Eaton should I need it.

#67 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2014 - 10:41 AM

You would have to look at my thread over at my tractor forum to see the sequence I followed breaking it down.

 

Maybe you can post a link or copy and paste your thread here in a new thread for others to be able to use. :thumbs:


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#68 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2014 - 12:07 PM

Mat most of the caution taking these apart is the sequence of dismantling & of coarse putting back together. You also have parts that are alike that should be put back in their original location. I haven't had my 990 tranny a part but I have taken my Sunstrand MF 12 a part twice with no problems. Just follow Lost Pup & VTXrider's experience & you should be fine. They both have been very helpful to me with my 990.
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#69 Lost Pup OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2014 - 03:43 PM

Maybe you can post a link or copy and paste your thread here in a new thread for others to be able to use. :thumbs:

http://www.mytractor...ad.php?t=220555


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#70 Lost Pup OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2014 - 03:47 PM

It is a runner. The problem is that the sound I'm hearing was not there before I started work to removing the yoke. My yoke was stuck hard and fast so it took quite a bit of work to get it removed and my fear is that I dislodged something in the process. I've already priced out a used Eaton should I need it.

To continue you will need to remove the rear section.


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#71 VTXrider ONLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2014 - 07:14 PM

I read this a while back. Plan on a couple hours of your time. Lost Pup has a lot of good information in his restore project.


Edited by VTXrider, October 16, 2014 - 07:15 PM.

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#72 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2014 - 07:22 PM

I read this a while back. Plan on a couple hours of your time. Lost Pup has a lot of good information in his restore project.


I've been following his lead with my project as well. I agree about the usefulness of the information. I actually sent him a PM on his other forum and he was kind enough to jump on GTTALK and weigh in.
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#73 Lost Pup OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2014 - 08:41 PM

I have subscribed to this thread now so I will try to be more attentive to it.

The problem with the eaton is parts availability and cost.
I did change rotation on the swapped charge pump as detailed in my thread but the tolerances of the pump section are extremely tight and the smallest amount of wear simply reduces hydraulic output. The info I have is the pumps components are precisely mated at the factory and then run to mate them. A few internal parts could be replaced , ball checks, springs and such but for the most part the best option is to pick up a used one with the correct rotation shaft.
I do have a replacement eaton wrapped up and stored if mine goes. Try posting in the MTD forums to see if you can do better than the $200 eBay price.

Enjoying the thread very much.....maybe i will finish mine up.....i have supplies to add an aluminum trigger disk to the Briggs then to fire an HEI ignition module.
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#74 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 16, 2014 - 11:07 PM

I'm officially committed to getting elbow deep into the hydro pump. I built a tabletop for the tear down and repair of the pump so I won't loose anything in the process.

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I'll share one pic tonight and the rest tomorrow. I don't see any glaring issues but then again I have tested to tolerances to determine if something is worn beyond its useful life. To my untrained eye I can't detect the problem just yet. Here's a pic of the pump in pieces.

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I'll post a more detailed flow of the tear down tomorrow sometime. Off to bed I go.
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#75 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted October 17, 2014 - 05:49 PM

Here are the pics I promised (in the order of tear down):

 

"gear box" after removing the hydro pump

 

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Does anyone see anything right off that looks amiss? I found some wear here and there but nothing looks "broken". Would love to hear your theories. Thanks.


Edited by Moosetales, October 17, 2014 - 05:50 PM.

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