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Mtd 990? Need Another Set Of Eyes, Please.


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#16 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 07:46 AM

Looks like not a bad deal to me, be nice if it had more attachments, can't do to much with any tractor unless you have some attachments for it.

3 point is home made but might be fully usable.

Muffler is the original type, has be turned up there were made to exit low and to the rear.

Front tires look small, should be 16x6.50/8.

 

As far as a snow blower goes I have one that I would sell cheap, it came mounted to a parts tractor I bought.


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#17 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 09:13 AM

I would go that price but offer $300.first.
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#18 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 09:47 AM

Heading home.

post-8172-0-56136800-1405262802.jpg


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#19 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 10:20 AM

Stopped for gas so I thought I'd give a quick update. The seller produced the original 3 bolt front rims so we are talking earlier 70s I suspect. The 3 pt. hitch has parts that maybe original but reinforced with rebar. The frame is in perfect order with no cracks or fracture...best I can tell. SN on tractor is unreadable so will check engine SN once home.
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#20 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 10:44 AM

Too late for my message now I guess, but the price is lower than expected. the $300 offer sounded good to me.  I belive also that is the standard hitch and as noted rebar welded on for strength??  Forgot to look, tip link there?  You can make of buy one of those. These lifts are little sloppier than others and limited on lift height I think. The two big arms on side that lift can be adjusted some, and also diff mount holes for ends to make changes. There is a fella making new parts for those if needed. I got some lift Links from him and look orig and built real nice and strong.  That grader blade is a neat attachment, but had to imagine plowing with snow under your tractor and driving thru it first?  I also didn't notice small wheels till mentioned, but you solved that I guess. I do have a pair of smaller lighter three bolt hubs if yours are bad or missing if any interest in them. 3\4" axle. 


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#21 Canawler OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 11:16 AM

It's always good to see a 990 being saved.

 

As Doug stated, the 3pt. arms are definitely homemade and the muffler is original but turned wrong.  It's fairly rare to find an original muffler in decent shape.

The 3 bolt front wheels and early style deck lift arms make it '75 or back.  The hole in the frame we're talking about is on the left side at the rear of the front section where it flares.  The hole is oval and maybe 3"x2"??  It cracks on the bottom of the hole where the frame is small.  It's definitely on '74 and back tractors but I think it's missing on '75s (and newer) so if you have no hole, yours should be a '75.

 

 

It has the starter/gen bump out sheet metal. I think that puts it in the early years.

 

There's three configurations for the bump.  The earliest has it high on the grill, right below the headlight area.  Then it moved down on the grill to the location you see on this one.  I don't know what year it changed but my '74 has it low and the '71 brochure I have shows it high.  When they switched from the starter-generator to the starter and alternator ('80ish??) they got rid of the bump completely.


Edited by Canawler, July 13, 2014 - 11:25 AM.

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#22 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 06:39 PM

Good evening. Well, it's raining and it's safe to say that this is the first night in at least 4 years that the 990 has spent the night out of the elements. Feels good to have her safe inside and on her way to becoming a part of the herd. I worked all afternoon working on the wiring and applying a healthy coat of PB Blaster to all the nuts and bolts that will need to be turned very soon.

 

The starter solenoid needed to be replaced so off to the store I went and I'm pleased to report the new solenoid is installed and ready to go. The ignition switch will still not turn the engine over so I'm in pursuit of the correct manual that will give me the wiring diagram for my 990. Any thoughts on which manual in our manuals section would give me the correct wiring diagram?

 

Also, I need to order tires and would like to do that tonight. Any one know the correct tire size for the rears? Currently, the tire size on the back is 27 x 9.5 x 15. Is that correct? The front tires that are on the original rims have 16 x 6.5 x8 tires. Are those correct as well? Thanks.

 

Matthew



#23 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 07:14 PM

Those are the correct size tires. Prepare thyself for sticker shock on the rears.
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#24 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 13, 2014 - 08:48 PM

tires on back harder to find and if good tread leave alone. Ag style almost un-available for most. Even if you had to put tubes in them to keep up, still better than new tires for prices. If you remove or they remove, good time to blast and paint the wheels. That is when I do it, while tires are all the way off. The front ones will be a $40 to $45 tire and more if you put in tubes. www.greaterclevelandtire.com has good prices and cheaper in pairs and fast delivery. Carlisle and Deestones, which I find to be fine.


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#25 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted July 20, 2014 - 08:20 PM

Good evening. I'm a week into refurbing the 990 and as I spend more time with the tractor the more I like it. I'm attaching a few more pics of the 990 shortly after getting her home last weekend. Since then I've stripped most of the tin off the body and have dug in lubing, tightening, replacing rusted bolts, cleaning out mice and mud wasp nests and giving everything I can get to a good once over. I went through the entire tractor and rewired everything and she starts right up now with the key.

 

I have new 5 rib tires/tubes coming in the mail this week and hope to have the original 3 lug rims sanded and painted shortly. The rear tires are holding air at this point so I'll leave them alone for the time being.

 

For sitting outside in the Maine elements for the past 4 years the tractor is in relatively great shape. Here are a few pics for now.

 

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#26 Sawdust OFFLINE  

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Posted July 20, 2014 - 08:45 PM

Nice to see your making good progress. Is your dash panel in good shape? These are usually busted pretty bad.
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#27 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted July 20, 2014 - 09:36 PM

Nice to see your making good progress. Is your dash panel in good shape? These are usually busted pretty bad.

 

It's missing a few pieces but I found one medium and one small piece of the dash down inside the tractor this morning so I'll be glueing those back in place and working to restore the rest to it's original form.

 

I've got a hand full of parts I'm missing so I'll be on the hunt for the next little while. 



#28 DH1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 20, 2014 - 09:40 PM

What are you looking for?


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#29 Moosetales OFFLINE  

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Posted July 20, 2014 - 09:54 PM

What are you looking for?

 

1) hh-15-02533 (Frctn. Pad 1.600" Dia.x.370 thk).....this is the inside friction pad for the brake

2) 9479 (Lift bar)...this is the horizontal bar on the left side of the tractor

3) The needle bearing that "forces" the control arm to return to neutral when the break is depressed

4) The spring on the break rod

5) My fan needs to be replaced as it is missing one fin

 

I'm also still on the hunt for a snow blower.

 

That's what I've found thus far. I'm also having the dickens of a times getting the break assembly dialed in correctly. I'll post a few pics tomorrow to show what I've done and maybe there's something glaring that I'm doing wrong that's making everything not work correctly. Thanks.

 

Matthew



#30 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 21, 2014 - 08:32 PM

I have a few extra brake assembly's off these. Would have to look and see what  have. Disc, right?  I have about three and one disc even if I recall. You can't remove one axle case bolt to get out of frame with-out removing the disc and I wrecked one once doing that.  Can did them out and take a pix or two if interested. The setting is on the puck holder. Just a lock-nut in center of cam that makes the cam work early or late for pressure. The rod to it also has an adjuster for the pedal action, AND a big spring on that for allowing the pedal to move more after brake is on to push the control back to N. Usually all the rockshafts and links are rusted up and not working correct. Just oiliing and greasing the lower link/cam part makes big diff and the rockshaft where it passes thru the frame sides.


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