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Need Opinion On Engne Mount Technique


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#1 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2014 - 11:39 PM

Some may know that most C size and other W-Horse tractors with K engines have a special pan with holes in bottom for one side of channel iron frame to line up to.  I have a C series that I am putting a 14 from a GT 14 into  and it does not have those holes, because it's frame is wider and lines up to stock holes in feet. I now have the engine setting in frame, one side bolts right up to holes on the flywheel side. pto side has the holes out past the frame some. Not sure if enough room to just make some angle irons to bolt or weld on frame there and still have bolt go through enough to get bolt on. Seems it would be too close to metal to do that. SO, was looking at idea of J-bolts for that side. Another Horse guy told me he did that and lasted for many years, no problems. I held up a smaller J bolt and looks like it would line up good and not be angled or anything. I would use 3/8" ones. Need about 3.5" long to be good. Hope to be able to find some that short or with long threads at least. My only concern was if one over-tightened them, but just break off a foot off the pan of engine?? Think that would be concern? I could also use fiver lock nuts  to keep on if they decide to loosen with running if I don't tighten real hard?  What you think?


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#2 superspeedex OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2014 - 12:02 AM

You could always run a die over the threads and make them longer if needed



#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2014 - 05:02 AM

If you use a lock nut or even a lock washer you should be OK. If I am in doubt about something staying tight I mark the bolt and nut with yellow paint so that I can easily keep an eye on it to see if it's loosening up. If you think the J bolt may bend when you tighten it, try to find a Stainless steel or hardened j bolt. Then just don't over torque it and you shouldn't need to worry about breaking off the block mount.



#4 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2014 - 11:46 AM

If you ran a nut on first, then up thru the foot. Tighten the top bolt to where you're comfy and then tighten the bottom lock nut up against the foot.

Another idea would be to put a plate under that extends over the frame on the one side. I would think that if it was 5/16 thick, you could cut it out to be the same shape as the bottom of the pan. A set of studs welded on the bottom to stick thru the original frame holes and then a set up thru the engine holes?
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#5 jimt1971 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2014 - 03:39 PM

I have J bolts on two Wheel Horses. One is a puller and it has been fine for two seasons and the other is a worker and has been fine for three seasons. Just need to check the bolts every now and then to make sure they are tight. They seem to loosen up.

 

Jim


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#6 glgrumpy OFFLINE  

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Posted July 08, 2014 - 09:56 PM

Here's some pix of before and after J-bolts. One pix is reg nuts to just try, fibers on later. Can also see where I need the lower support for the pto to work. REst of pto is in and should work fine.

Attached Thumbnails

  • 2014-07-08 002.jpg
  • 2014-07-08 003.jpg
  • 2014-07-08 004.jpg
  • 2014-07-08 005.jpg
  • Z New Deb's Horse 2014-07-08 002.jpg

Edited by glgrumpy, July 08, 2014 - 10:04 PM.

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#7 jimt1971 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 09, 2014 - 08:57 AM

A lower bracket from any three series WH will work for that bracket.






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