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Odd Question To Get An 850 Running Again ...


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#16 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2014 - 11:39 AM

That would much cheaper than replacing the entire arm too. 

 

Yes, the only time you really need the whole assembly is on the early tube frames like the 600 & 800 where the Draglink was a whole unit and ball joints were not removable.


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#17 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2014 - 07:50 PM

Yes, the only time you really need the whole assembly is on the early tube frames like the 600 & 800 where the Draglink was a whole unit and ball joints were not removable.

 

I think there is some confusion.

 

The #1717462 drag link was used on most tube frame models and the ball joints which were part of the draglink were not replaceable. 

 

The tie rod used the #1713361 ball joints, which were separate and replaceable.

 

If this info is wrong, please correct me.  .....Was the 1717462 draglink superceded by a different draglink?


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#18 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted July 17, 2014 - 07:57 PM

Your Right , I mixed the two up, it was the early models that have replaceable ball joints! :wallbanging:

 

I think some of my later machines have replaceable ball joints though so there may have been a revision somewhere down the line.


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#19 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2014 - 06:32 PM

The 1717462 is the ball in the main shaft of the drag link. There isn't any way to remove the socket part since it's part of the rod. So how did they get the ball into the socket and keep it there?



#20 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2014 - 07:20 PM

The 1717462 is the ball in the main shaft of the drag link. There isn't any way to remove the socket part since it's part of the rod. So how did they get the ball into the socket and keep it there?

 

 

1717462 is the number for the draglink with the ball in each end.  ...It was only sold as a complete assembly, not as separate parts.

 

The ball was inserted into the socket and the material around the rim of the hole was compressed to retain the ball.  ....Through use, this material would wear until the ball would separate from the socket.

 

Sometimes the draglink could be repaired by re-inserting the ball and using a center punch to "upset" the metal around the rim of the socket to retain the ball, without causing it to bind.   .....I have also repaired some draglinks by building up the metal with a welder. 


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#21 JohnWR OFFLINE  

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Posted July 19, 2014 - 07:49 PM

I got my drag link from here

http://www.tubeframe...train---chassis


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