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Standard Twin With The Governor Help


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#1 Standardtwin1 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2014 - 02:52 PM

I've got a 40 twin I'm working on. I've reringed it and was able to scrounge together a early m15A tillotson carb for it. It was missing the carb and gov linkage.

 

So I've put it back together, and runs well, but I have yet to figure out the governer settings. All my other twins are pre govenor, and don't have it.

 

When my throttle lever is "closed" that lets the gov arm rest towards the driver. When you "open" the throttle, it pushes the arm forward, looking like it limits the travel.

 

As it seemed to push forward to "open" the throttle, that is how I fabricated a gov arm to the carb. It is on a homemade bell crank with the rod at the bottom, so when the arm goes forward, the throttle on the carb opens

 

I've had it go full throttle almost immediately after opening the lever. I tried pushing the arm forward, then securing it to the link to keep the throttle closed, but the same thing happened. Ever tried to stop a moving twin, when you can't reach the mag stop?? It didn't have a carriage on it yet, just two wheels. It started and idled OK, so off I went, opened the lever a tad, and full tilt we went, till I pulled the test gas tank off of it and the carb ran dry.. I use Coleman gas for testing in case of leaks or other interesting issues.

 

Is this backwards, or how is the arm set up on yours? How is the gov link done, and what does what when the lever is opened?

 

Thanks!!

 

Mike



#2 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2014 - 07:04 PM

 

 It started and idled OK, so off I went, opened the lever a tad, and full tilt we went, till I pulled the test gas tank off of it and the carb ran dry..

 

 

Now, I'm not even going to answer that question until we can see a picture of this predicament. And if you want the full answer, make it a video.  :wewantpics:



#3 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted June 28, 2014 - 09:27 PM

Mike, If you go here http://gardentractor...company/page-12 and look at post 168 I posted photos of how the governor should be hooked up. If you read backwards from there, you can reread the section on the twin gov that you actually started. Maybe we should move this back over there where we already have the pictures and discussion??


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#4 Standardtwin1 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2014 - 07:25 AM

I think I had it backwards. The problem was that the throttle lever on the non gov twin, when its closed, the carb is closed.

 

On this one, it seems you need the lever up and work backwards, ie opening the lever pushes the gov arm forward, making the carb idle. As you pull the lever down, it allows the arm to pull back the bellcrank to open the carb.

 

Is this correct?

 

Thanks!!



#5 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted June 29, 2014 - 07:54 AM

If it is set up like the pictures I posted, pulling the cable back would make the carb go to idle. Seems strange that they would have made it work backwards though. I'll have  to do some looking to see.



#6 Standardtwin1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 04, 2014 - 10:38 AM

The thing I think that will be very helpful, is which way is the carb opening and closing on your tractor?

 

For example, my Tillotson M15A throttle opens by pulling bellcrank back towards the operator, not pushing forward. In fact my Zenith is the same way. Depending on how you set a bellcrank up, it could either push or pull. Neither carb was on a gov controlled twin.

 

 

Thank you!!



#7 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2014 - 06:57 AM

Here are some pics I took of the carb. Not sure if we can see the idle stop or not. I only had a 34 to compare it to. The throttle lever is missing on the governed one but the mounting is different than the 34.

 

DSC01849.JPG                   DSC01852.JPG

 

DSC01852.JPG                   DSC01855.JPG

 

This should be the 34 to compare.

 

DSC01853.JPG           DSC01854.JPG

 



#8 Standardtwin1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 06, 2014 - 08:26 AM

OK, here is mine.

 

Your 34 and my other twins do the same thing. Lift up on that handle to increase speed.The pictures show the homemade test rod on the bellcrank. In the pictures, the throttle lever is all the way down. In this case doing so pulls back on the bellcrank, opening the throttle. It seems in comparison, that your bellcrank is in the same location as mine. The throttle butterfly on yours I assume, is pulling back open too? In this setup, I had the lever all the way UP to get it to idle, Pulling down slightly opened it way too quick, and I think this test rod is too short. Picture number 2 shows the lever pulled up, pushing the gov arm forward, in this case closing the throttle to idle. The third picture shows the lever all the way closed, which I would have thought would be idle, but is actually wide open throttle (backwards). You can see the gap in the gov lever as the rod is too short.

 

I think I need to make a rod like yours. How long is it approximately?.

 

Thank you

 

Mike

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Edited by Standardtwin1, July 06, 2014 - 08:32 AM.


#9 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted July 07, 2014 - 01:29 PM

The rod on mine is about 6 3/4" long overall as installed. The end of the rod at the carb has a ball stud and socket assy similar to a small tie rod end and is threaded on the rod. The rod is .196 diameter. I don't have the horizontal holes in the handle to mount my throttle. Mine are vertical. Maybe they changed the throttle style to overcome this?



#10 Standardtwin1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2014 - 01:10 PM

At long last, I believe I have it. :D With the help I recieved, I machined a gov link to the carb as the original, and got a throttle ball joint for the carb.

 

This setup had me a bit fooled, as it appears that the throttle lever works backwards. Well it does. If you pull the cable out, it limits the gov lever and holds the throttle closed. If you push the cable in, the tab at the gov lever backs off, allowing the lever to move back opening the throttle. What really regulates the top governed speed is the spring itself. I had it very loose to start. After starting off, I pushed the cable in and totally released the gov arm.. As the spring was loose, it didn't pull back much, but some to make it a slow speed. Given that, it wouldn't go any faster however completely released.  Going up a hill, it worked as a gov should, by keeping a constant speed.

 

The hand lever works backwards. That is just the way it is. The spring will determine the amount that it will open the throttle at a given position. Tighten up the spring, and the top speed increases.

 

I hope this is of some help to anyone who has one of these.


Edited by Standardtwin1, July 27, 2014 - 01:11 PM.

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#11 Standardtwin1 OFFLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2014 - 01:17 PM

Pictures.

 

You can see that with the cable pulled out, its at idle...

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  • photo 2st2.JPG

Edited by Standardtwin1, July 27, 2014 - 01:26 PM.

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#12 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2014 - 10:44 AM

Mike, Another note to mention would be that with the governor arm pushed as far towards the handles as it can go, the rod to the carb should be adjusted so the carb is at wide open throttle. That assures full travel of the governor.


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