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Tecumseh 10 Hp Ignition Solution


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#1 mopargoob OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2014 - 11:04 PM

the ignition (SSI i believe)  crapped out a couple of years ago on my Crafstman Custom 10XL with 10 hp Tecumseh.  

I had retrofitted the ignition with one off of a early 70s Chrysler, module, ballast, coil, etc...

I didnt have an appropriate pickup coil for the flywheel, so I improvised with help from online sources and made my own setup.  it sucked.  it idled great but would overdrive the module at high speed under load. 

after being disgusted, I let it sit for a year and thought about what could be wrong. 

I came to the conclusion that the pickup coil is the only thing it could be. 

I didn't want to spend any money on this until I would be assured of success, so I made a different style of bracket, (adjustable) and used the abs front wheel speed sensor from a 98 to 2005 dodge 3/4 ton truck.  its a two wire sensor, and the resistance is in the ballpark for a regular ignition pickup coil. 

 

I got it running tonight with a few foul ups of my own making,  and after fixing those, it runs AWESOME! :rocker:

High speed, low speed, no load, full load, and anything I threw at it, it ran like a trooper, and never missed a beat.  throttle response is great.

 

I don't have a camera or I would have gotten some pics, sorry (really, I mean it!) :tapping_fingers:

Anyway, I just wanted to share what I found, and how I fixed it

take care

Jon


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#2 Bill 76 ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2014 - 11:16 PM

Slick idea,I wish I would have saved my old mopar parts------------And I really wish I had my old Mopars.


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#3 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2014 - 03:07 AM

Fixin' Junk with MORE Junk!  Not a new idea. There is a guy on line somewhere that will rebuild your Tec module or shows you how to do that. Have to open the plastic case some, run a jumper and add a diode or resistor or something. Uses same parts then, no add on junk.  Have also heard of X-ler brand stuff to fix, but you are first to mention some of parts to use, least for me.


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#4 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2014 - 05:43 AM

That's using your head to figure out a solution with what's on hand. Well done!



#5 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2014 - 05:46 AM

Wheel sensor, good idea.
I was thinking of using a cam sensor or a Hall effect sensor on the first one, but I haven't gotten around to it yet.

Since pictures arent available, If you have time, do you have a basic wiring diagram?

Anyways, congrats on getting her running. :dancingbanana:

#6 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2014 - 06:24 AM

The site for fixing the ignition systems is: http://home.earthlin...ller/index.html

Good Luck, Rick


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#7 mopargoob OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2014 - 08:24 AM

I turn wrenches at a dealership, so I see all kinds of stuff ( i mainly do electrical / electronics, and automatic trans)

I was looking for something on the small side, that had some heat resistance, and wouldn't need the 3rd wire (5volt reference from the ecu)

there are all kinds of speed sensors out there, but most are way bigger, like trans input output sensors, crank and cam sensors, pickup coils, etc.....   and each car company has their own version of how to make a sensor. :D



#8 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2014 - 08:31 AM

Ohhh...you better find a camera and pretty darn quick or we may have to send a moderator to your house :poke:  :poke:  :D

I am too curious on the wiring diagram, probably pretty close to Ed's set up or Brian Miller's.  Brian has a great set of diagrams on his webiste under the ignition section.

 

Ed's- www.enginesandmagnets.com

Brian's- http://gardentractor...om/ignition.htm

 

Here is a link on the conversion I did on my Tecumseh. My switch is some type micro switch that is tripped by a magnet I glued into the flywheel. It runs about $70 and I had been trying to find an cheaper alternative. Ed Stoller makes a trigger on his website link from Boyscout, Brian miller also has proximety switches listed on Garden Tractor pulling tips.

While researching this, I had came across the mention of either using a cam sensor or a Hall Effect trigger. I had also thought myself of using an ABS wheel sensor as they use the same principle of being triggered "Fingers" like a flywheel trigger pin would.

Glad to see you have been able to make it work. It sure would reduce costs over my switch. I like my set up due ot the fact I have 1 trigger and a coil, don't need the control module to make it work.

The guy who helped me design mine is also looking into using a GM HEI distributor and tearing it apart and seeing how it works and maybe adapting it somehow.

 

I have actually have removed the epoxy from my old SSI module and will be converting it as Ed shows on his website and using it on the ST16 I am restoring as it needs a new igntion. I have a good working HEI distributor also, may try to use the small module out of it instead of buying the Chrysler one. All I will need to buy is a coil and a toggle switch....Gonna try to keep whole conversion under $50! :rocker2:

 

 

http://gardentractor...ycoil-ignition/


Edited by TAHOE, June 25, 2014 - 08:32 AM.

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#9 mopargoob OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2014 - 09:24 AM

OK, i'll try to find a camera, but I am getting busy, have to put brakes on the daughters car tonite........



#10 mopargoob OFFLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2014 - 08:47 PM

OK,  went out and took some pics, but remember, this is experimenting, and some of it isn't completely ironed out yet, ie: basicly it works good, but havent worked on the permanent mounting of coil, ballast, and routing and protection of some of the wires.

I like using the Mopar ecu, as it doesn't need a heat sink.  the gm module out of an HEI needs a heat sink or it will burn out in short order.  the Ford ecu is good too, but it is rather bulky.

 

the victim:
P6250169.JPG

module:

P6250168.JPG

coil and ballast:

P6250167.JPG

pickup coil:

P6250170.JPG

another view of pickup coil:

P6250171.JPG

basic chrysler wiring diagram with notes:

wiring.jpg


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#11 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 25, 2014 - 10:47 PM

Very nice. This could help several people.
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#12 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2014 - 06:18 AM

Question, how do you have the yellow wire fed? At first, i thought it tied into the start terminal, but if it goes to the start pole, the starter will get juice backfed thru the resister.

Also, is the ecu part number P4120505 and what is the pt number on the wheel sensor?

#13 TAHOE ONLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2014 - 07:27 AM

Looks like a decent setup. Thanks for diagram and pics!!!

 

 

 

It still uses flywheel pins correct? What is the gap set at between tall pin and sensor?



#14 mopargoob OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2014 - 08:11 AM

I should have mentioned the yellow wire.  I don't use it.  when I was fooling around with this, I discovered that without the start circuit, it would still jump a 1" spark, so no need for xtra power when cranking.  this was meant for a chunk of high compression detroit 8 cyl iron, so a little garden tractor should be a piece of cake for it.

 

the ecu is just a generic CarQuest mid 70's chrysler ign box (4 wire) that I had from a project years ago.

I will have to do some research about the part number of the sensor, as I pulled it out of my junkbox  ( i keep a box of old sensors at work to aid in diagnostics sometimes)

 

the air gap is about .080" .  its kind of hard to measure,  I was first concerned about contact, and adjustment, so I made the bracket so I could shim it closer if needed.   well,  no need as it just flat runs the way it is. 

yes, the original pins are used,  I didn't want to destroy the possibility of putting it back to original should I ever find a SSI module somewhere that is good and is cheap (as in free.  yea I know I'm dreaming) :rolling:



#15 mopargoob OFFLINE  

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Posted June 26, 2014 - 08:17 AM

I think the part number for the pickup coil is:  56028217AC.   this is a chrysler part number.  i cut off the end, stripped the wires, and crimped on some bullet connectors that fit onto the module pins.


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