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My Ford 100


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#1 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2014 - 05:59 PM

New to the forum; just today I brought home (from his farm in Ohio) my grandfather's Ford 100 tractor. My aunt had told me it was a 1969 but from looking around this forum I already think it's a '66 or a '67. it always ran great. In fact, I mowed with this tractor in the summer of 2001. But the steering gear broke that year and it has set in a partly-covered shed ever since. I am excited to restore it.

 

I have most of the parts not shown here; only thing I am missing entirely are the left-side footrest and the steering column / shaft (I have the steering wheel).

 

I will post more pics as I go but here's what I have:

 

 

v7codv.jpg

 

24b2fco.jpg

 

o7oqia.jpg

 

30ryatt.jpg


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#2 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2014 - 06:26 PM

Nice old Ford!


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#3 Traill95 ONLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2014 - 06:49 PM

Good Luck with the restro. :thumbs:



#4 A.C.T. OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2014 - 08:32 PM

untitled welcome.png Great project GT!



#5 KC9KAS OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2014 - 08:55 PM

:welcometogttalk:  and thanks for the pictures.

Good luck with the restoration.



#6 smokestack76 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 21, 2014 - 09:09 PM

You have alot of work ahead of you! But family hand me downs are always best.

Sent via morse code from my front porch light
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#7 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2014 - 06:02 AM

Welcome to GTTalk. If you need any parts for that Ford take a look at our Site Sponsors and maybe one of them can help you. 



#8 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2014 - 06:54 AM

Welcome to the site! Good luck on your restoration . Thanks for pics. Tom

#9 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2014 - 07:08 AM

So looking at my serial# and checking the chart in the pinned thread, it looks like 53064-2070 indicates a 1967 model, 10 HP (which would be the Ford 100). However somewhere (I think it was a thread on this site) I read that the Kohler K241 serial starting with a "B" indicated a 1966 Engine. I guess it's entirely possible to have a 1967 model tractor with a 1966 engine in it. Any thoughts on that?

 

Last night I got the deck off and started to disassemble some of the hardware from it. Are spindles and pulleys available for this or am I limited to used? (this is the deck serial#)

 

IMG_2006.JPG

 

Also need to figure out this broken spring and what its job was. Looks like it was just mounted to 2 holes in the deck, but that doesn't make any sense!

 

IMG_2011.JPG

 



#10 Cat385B ONLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2014 - 07:16 AM

It's common for tractors in the early stages of a years production to use up engines left over from the previous year.

Remove the spindles and soak them in PB Blaster or a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone in a gallon ziplock baggie. Then you can remove the pulleys and bearings from the spindles and see what you need.
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#11 sacsr OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2014 - 08:33 AM

Welcome to the forum! Having one handed down is way more valuable than any thing you can buy! Look forward to you getting it up and running.

#12 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted June 22, 2014 - 09:10 AM

Boy, it looks like the spindles are just pressed in? Is that right? I don't see any bolts or what have you holding them in. I do have an arbor press.

 

And regarding my broken spring, I think it's very likely that the pulley it's stretched towards there in the pic is a tensioner pulley. But it's the only one that is totally seized up at this point.


Edited by Joe Knife, June 22, 2014 - 09:11 AM.

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#13 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2014 - 07:36 AM

Nice little success story from yesterday--I opened the gas tank and saw rust inside. Detatched the tank and poured out what looked like Orange Crush, and the bottom of the tank looked scaly and brown. Did a litttle youtube searching and came up with this solution: flushed the tank with water, removed the fuel petcock and taped over the hole. Poured in a gallon of cider vinegar along with about three handfulls of roofing nails. Shake and wait, shake and wait. Maybe 25 minutes and as much shaking as my arms could manage. Poured out and flushed with water again and found...

 

IMG_2026.JPG

 

Better results than I ever would have hoped for. Need to do it again with more time upside-down, I can still feel a little rust on the top of the tank. OH, and I finished off in the oven at 175° for about 20 minutes, just to get the tank good and dry. Momma wasn't too happy with that step...


Edited by Joe Knife, June 23, 2014 - 07:37 AM.

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#14 Joe Knife OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2014 - 07:47 PM

Tonight I took apart one of the spindles from the mower deck--one of the two smaller ones on the outer edges. I placed a block of wood in the way of the blade and removed the top nut with the aid of a large breaker bar and copious PB Blaster. Under the nut was a lock washer and then I could see a keyway in the threads.

 

IMG_2032.JPG IMG_2033.JPG

 

It took a lot more PB Blaster and some gentle taps with a hammer to get the pulley to lift free. There's the key.

 

IMG_2034.JPG

 

I placed a deep well socket against the top of the spindle (to protect the grease fitting) and tapped it down. It moved easily.

 

IMG_2036.JPG

 

The lower bearing came out with the spindle and then I was able to flip the deck and tap it out with a dowel rod. The good news is, these bearings are available on McMaster-Carr: NDH 3205. 25 mm inside diameter, 52 mm outside, 20.6 width. They are $48 each.

 

IMG_2039.JPG

 

The BAD news is, I broke one of the pins off of this collar, I'm not sure the proper name of it--it mounts to the bottom of the spindle and the blade mounts to it. This must have happened when I was trying to break the top nut loose but I never felt it. How screwed am I? Is this part impossible to find?

 

IMG_2038.JPG

 

Edit: Looks like I'm really screwed! "Cutting bar adapter" Part # 239024.


Edited by Joe Knife, June 23, 2014 - 07:55 PM.


#15 Rock farmer ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2014 - 05:29 AM

Those pins are kinda unique to Jacobsen.
I wouldn't hesitate to use it as is.
However if you want to replace it, I think you should be able to press or drill it out.
And replace it with a standard pin.

Joe




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