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To retro-fit or not


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#1 willrross OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2011 - 08:34 AM

I have a 1947 Gibson Model D tractor with a Wisconsin AEH engine. The tractor is in excellent condition,but the engine needs a complete overhaul. I was thinking about retro-fitting a V twin to the tractor. I would want it to have an electric starter and keep the original gas tank to keep the tractor looking as original as possible. The crank shaft is approxmately 1.125-1.126 " in dia and approx 4" long.(this is a approx. guess. Maybe one of you might know if those measurements are correct for the AEH Wisconsin engine. With new paint and a custom made exhaust (with mufflers) and keeping it as original as possible I think it might be a show stopper. I need help from my new friends at GTtalk to guide me in the right direction of restoring this beautiful tractor and to give it new life but keep it as original as possible. Respectfully Wm :confuse:



#2 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2011 - 08:37 AM

Welcome to the Forum!

Sounds like a nice project.

:wewantpics:
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#3 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2011 - 08:39 AM

Here are the specs for your AEH engine :thumbs:

Repair Specifications
Standard Cyclinder Bore 3.0005 - 2.9995
Piston Skirt to Bore Clearance .004 - .0045 Split Skirt
3000 RPM and ABOVE .0065 - .007 Split Skirt
Crankpin Diameter 1.126 - 1.125
Connecting Rod to Crankpin Clearance .0007 - .002
.0011 - .0035 Shell Bearing to Crankpin Clearance (Vertical)
Valve Tappet Clearance - Cold/Inlet .008
Valve Tappet Clearance - Cold/Exhaust .016
Bolt Torque Specifications(FT. LBS.)
Connecting Rod 20
Cylinder Block/Center Main to C.Case 78
Cylinder Head 32
Engine Base 32
Gear Cover None
Manifold 18
Main Bearing Plate 32
Spark Plug 30
Flywheel None
Rope Sheave None
Additional Specifications(FT. LBS.)
Crankcase Old Capacity 2-1/2 PTS
Running Spark Advance 25 Degrees
Maximum Engine Operating R.P.M. 3200
Emission Certified False
Maintenance Specs
1. Every 4 to 8 hours check air cleaner and clean or replace.
2. Every 8 hours check crankcase oil level.
3. Every 50 drain crankcase and refill with fresh oil.
4. For gasoline engines use only regular grade gasoline(87 Octane Min.)
Crankcase, Crankshaft and Main Bearing Common Specs
1. Cylinders Worn .005" or more over Standard Size, Rebore, Hone and Fit with Oversize Piston and Rings.
2. Crankshaft End Play: .002 to .005" (Cold), (W2-1230, W2-1235, W2-1250, .005 to .012)
3. W2-1230, W2-1235 & W2-1250 Main Bearing Clearance: .002 to .005"-Connecting Rod Side Clearnance .009 - .018" - Piston Ring End Gap .010 to .020.
4. W4-1770 3rd Bearing Housing to Crankcase Torque 40-45 Foot Pounds.
Piston Common Specs
1. Piston Pin to Piston: .0000 to .0008" Tight(W2-1230, W2-1235 & W2-1250 = .0005 TO .0008 Loose)
2. Piston Pin to Connecting Rod: .0005 to .001" (ACN, BKN, S7D, H8D, TR10D, TRA12D = .0002 TO .0008)(W2-1230, W2-1235 & W2-1250 = .0006 TO .0015 Tight)
Ignition Common Specs
1. Spark Advance Check for Distributor/Ignition Timers: Engine must be running at 2000 RPM or above.
2. Breaker Point Gap: Distributor = .020", Magneto = .015".
3. Timing for Models S7D, HS7D, S8D, S10D, S12D, S14D, TR10D AND TRA10D is set by adjusting breaker point gap, preferrably with a continuity light or ohmmeter. For correct procedure see "TIMING" section in repair manuals
4. Breakerless Ignition (not adjustable): standard on TRA12D, optional on S10D, S12D & S14D.
5. Spark Plug Gap = .030".
Valves Common Specs
1. Valve Face and Valve Seat Angle: 45 Degrees
2. Valve stem to guide clearance: .003 to .005" for all models except: ACN-BKN, V460D, V461D, V465D, VR4D=.002 TO .004". Exhaust only - S7D, HS7D, S8D, HS8D, TR10D, TRA10D, TRA12D = .002 TO .004" (W2-1230 = .003 to .005") Inlet Only - S7D, HS7D, S8D, HS8D, S10D, S12D, S14D, TR10D, TRA10D, TRA12D, W2-1230 = .001 to .003"
3. When Clearance Becomes .002" Over Hight limit, Replace guides.
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#4 willrross OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2011 - 08:46 AM

Thank you for your reply. I am not sure how to create a picture on this web site. My computor skills are limited but I will do my best...Wm

#5 Bolens 1000 ONLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2011 - 08:53 AM

As long as you have the pics on your computer the rest is easy.

Here's a link on how to post pictures on GTT http://gardentractor...res-gttalk-209/
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#6 mjodrey OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2011 - 09:10 AM

willrross:welcometogttalk:glad to have you with us.
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#7 tractormike OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2011 - 10:39 AM

:welcome: willrross to the site :wave:glad to have you here!
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#8 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2011 - 11:27 AM

:welcome: to GTTALK!
It looks as if you're already finding the info you need. That's great.
If you have any questions, just ask!
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#9 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2011 - 08:09 PM

I vote for the repower project :D
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#10 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted January 29, 2011 - 10:22 PM

NUTNDUN, I don't think diesel was on his list... LOL
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#11 middleageddeere OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2011 - 11:59 AM

Although, I usually try to keep things as original as possible, I would say re-power. The difference in weight and efficiency are noticeable. Also, trying to find parts for those old Wisconsins can't be fun I imagine.

#12 mikebramel OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2011 - 03:52 PM

If that engine is good for 64 years I think it will last longer than you. I dont know if you use the machine heavily but I would think the 10hp would be adequate. A vtwin would look strange. But its yours. If you need parts there is a guy on the east coast that has a warehouse full. Dont have the email off hand but can find it if you need it. Shouldnt cost more then $400 to do that motor. $400 will buy you a Vtwin core

#13 JD DANNELS OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2011 - 04:21 PM

I honestly am not familiar with a Gipson or it's collective value, so am hesident to comment too much.
However the nature of a tractor as a multipurpse. workhorse and the farmers attitude of making what he has do the job, it need to do.
I am not a purist and think if you think the modern Vtwin will serve your purpose. GO FOR IT.
I would have no qualm about mofiying my machines if I think it necessary to do the jobs I need done.

I recently read of a collector, who's special nich in the collector world was modified machines.
He said it pointed to the inginuity of the builders, and therfore was historical preservation.

#14 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2011 - 05:26 PM

...I recently read of a collector, who's special nich in the collector world was modified machines. He said it pointed to the inginuity of the builders, and therfore was historical preservation.


I am a bit of a purist when it comes to restoration. That being said, if you need it and it isn't doing the job any more, then I'd say re-power. Keep in mind that you might be able to refurb the engine you have for less money and aggravation than retrofitting a different engine. I also have to agree with what JD said. When an owner modifies a piece of equipment to do what he needs it to, as long as it's well done, It can be very interesting as well. I love to see some of that stuff at shows. It really makes you think and you learn to appreciate the "farmer ingenuity" that goes into it. That's my $.02.




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