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Simplicity 9020


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#1 cey146 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2014 - 11:48 AM

Thanks for accepting me, as one of you. I was referred here from a member of another site. 

 

The problem area I'm having can be seen on the parts diagram, in the rear PTO group. Bearing, shown as part #45 on the diagram wears out quickly and all heck breaks loose.  (this drives the rear-PTO shaft for my tiller attachment) I shut the machine off, and tear it down, only to find the same issue. The first time, I had to replace part #38, the shaft itself. OUCH!! At first I thought the bearing may fit too loosely, but it actually fits as it should.

 

The second time, the damage was only to the bearing, #45 and a seal. It happened again, and I have not tore into it yet. The most recent problem was following a total of 10 hours of use.

it from re-occuring. 

 

I'll ad the diagram, and a picture of the tear down, so it may help you to help me.

 

Sincere Thanks.

 

Simplicity 9020 Rear PTO Group.gif 9020 Bearing Issue 001.jpg



#2 HDWildBill ONLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2014 - 12:56 PM

Welcome to GTtalk.  One of the simplicity guys should be along soon to help you with the problem.



#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2014 - 03:53 PM

Is #45 a bushing? It's hard to tell in the diagrams. You need someone who is familiar with that setup to advise you. 



#4 glgrumpy ONLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2014 - 05:54 PM

Don't know tractor, but if breaking, must be a problem to address in connections, the pto shaft or balance?? Is your pto shaft able to move in/out easy as tiller and tractor move up/down?  If it is frozen stiff, could be putting pressures on parts, trying to push sideways maybe and such. If a fast spinning shaft, is the pto shaft way out of balance or have shot U-joints causing it to wobble?  And finally, does the tiller input shaft turn easy by hand or the shaft off the tractor?  Just wonder if dragging or binding issue on the tiller? Lots of junk gets into tiller main shafts below and binds up and tears out seals/bearings there and makes problems. Thinking then, the problem is not the joint, but something after that.



#5 superaben OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2014 - 05:55 PM

Welcome to the forum.

 

I don't know the particular setup, but troubleshooting a bearing is pretty easy. To know what to advise, though, I'll need to know if it is a ball, roller, or bushing.

 

Ben W.



#6 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted June 18, 2014 - 10:22 PM

Olcowhand, one of the cadre here, has a couple of those tractors and I believe has addressed issues with the 2000 Rpm PTO.

He monitors this site pretty closely and should notice your post presently.

Edited by skunkhome, June 18, 2014 - 10:27 PM.


#7 cey146 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2014 - 09:14 AM

Original poster here, I'll add a few photos to the topic so you may have a better idea what I am up against. Please continue your input, as I think there have been some good suggestions.

 

Simplicity .jpg Simplicity.jpg

 

 

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20140622_140324.jpg.jpg
  • Simplicity 9020.jpg

Edited by cey146, June 23, 2014 - 09:19 AM.


#8 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2014 - 08:07 PM

That should be a caged needle bearing, but I've never had any issue with mine to get into that spot.  But there should be some sort of cap sealing that end of the shaft at the rear.  I will take a look at one of mine tomorrow to see what type of plug/cap should be there in the rear trans center case.  Is the hole in the case still a good snug fit to the needle cage?  If it isn't, that will cause a bearing failure.  The only way top repair the hole if wallowed is to have it machined & fitted with a press fit bushing, or replace the center case.  The bolt that holds the front PTO clutch adapter bell to the front of that shaft centers the shaft, but it would appear your shaft is protruding too far to the rear for whatever reason.


  • skunkhome said thank you

#9 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2014 - 10:18 PM

What in the world is fracturing those heavy cast top link anchorage? I think I would put a 1/4" steel plate behind the casting next time around. Plate steel will absorb shock a lot better than cast steel.

#10 cey146 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 23, 2014 - 10:44 PM

Olcow, I think you are seeing the same thing as I. Why is the back side of the bearing partial visible. That bracket should have been taller to cover the bearing. Please do take a look at yours.

Skunk, I have no idea why that bracket broke. I'm very thankful for the help which I am receiving from complete strangers. I would do the same for you in my area of knowledge.

#11 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2014 - 08:18 AM

There is supposed to be a plug cap at the end of the bearing cavity.  The attached pdf shows it, but I haven't found a part # yet.  If it's a std size, then you likely could use a welch plug.

 

Attached File  allis scan.PDF   353.2KB   68 downloads



#12 cey146 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2014 - 08:28 AM

Olcow,

Thanks, keep up the good work. Looking back, I failed to answer a question you asked. The bearing is .75"ID x 1.00" OD.
It does fit rather snugly, but we set it with some Loctite, which is made for that purpose. The hole actually measures 1.004"
What do you think about that, enough to cause the entire issue here?

#13 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2014 - 10:26 AM

That bearing should go in tight without any loctite.  Actually it should go in with about .002" interference fit, or in other words, the hole should measure .001 to .002" under an inch.  I think the loose fit is the issue here.  Those needle housings can take a lot, but not when they aren't solidly backed with solid steel.  Bouncing around will beat the cage to death.  That and dirt/dust contaminating the bearing is a death sentence. You might shim the hole with .001" shim stock, and the highest holding Loctite and make it work, and definitely find the cap plate.



#14 cey146 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2014 - 10:37 AM

I wonder why the cap isn't shown on the parts diagram? How do I know what to use, and where to find one. Should I take the tractor to a machine shop, and ask them to look at the hole for their Profesional input? I really want to get this fixed, for good.

#15 skunkhome OFFLINE  

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Posted June 24, 2014 - 07:01 PM

I'm very thankful for the help which I am receiving from complete strangers. I would do the same for you in my area of knowledge.

. Well, Daniel is a pretty regular guy but I am stranger than most. I am pleased you are finally getting some insight that may lead to a lasting solution. Good luck!

Edited by skunkhome, June 24, 2014 - 07:02 PM.

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