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Jd 400 Mitsubishi L3E Diesel Repower


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#31 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2014 - 09:37 PM

Heres another shot of the hydro cooler location.  Took two 6mm 3/4" hardware and made a secure mount.

IMG_6429-L.jpg

 

Now heres a quick question on the motor there are two nubs for radiator overflow?.  Since my radiator has an overflow that will be connect to a tank, do I connect the two overflows on the motor (close loop) and not worry about using them?

 

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_6428-L.jpg


Edited by Pager450n, August 09, 2014 - 10:38 PM.

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#32 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2014 - 11:11 PM

Also, for radiator plumbing, how should I run the inlet from the water pump, materials?  Id do a split of ridged tubing, and add some washers to increase cooling then put some silicone connections.  Or do I run supported radiator silicone hose the full lenght?

 

total lenght for inlet= approx 3 1/2"

total lenght for outlet = approx 2' 

both of these are from the radiator



#33 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2014 - 08:03 AM

Finally had the chance to get all the way thru and study the progress. FANTASTIC repower. This will be great when done. (I Keep thinking "How many lbs can he stuff in that 5 lbs compartment")

At some point, you might want to consider doing an article on this. If you do we will have to upload the pics here (preferred anyways) instead of justsomepics.
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#34 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2014 - 08:08 AM

I'd just run supported radiator hose full run on both inlet & outlet.  The 2 lines near the pump were for some sort of heater.  Just do a closed loop on them. 


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#35 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 10, 2014 - 10:51 AM

I'd just run supported radiator hose full run on both inlet & outlet.  The 2 lines near the pump were for some sort of heater.  Just do a closed loop on them.


I was thinking about bending some elec emt for the majority of the inlet run just to reduce the possibility of hose collapse. But I might go with the hose all the way. We will see how much time I have.

Finally had the chance to get all the way thru and study the progress. FANTASTIC repower. This will be great when done. (I Keep thinking "How many lbs can he stuff in that 5 lbs compartment")
At some point, you might want to consider doing an article on this. If you do we will have to upload the pics here (preferred anyways) instead of justsomepics.


No kidding. I keep looking at it and wondering if I have missed anything. The engine and everything else has been a great planing and logistic adventure. I have always wanted to do this since I purchased the 400 almost 4 years ago. I'd love to do an article if the site would like. Plus any pics or suggestions to do to the tractor would be considered in the repower.

I am tempted to save up and buy one of those mini td02 turbos and add it to the organized chaos that's under the hood.
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#36 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2014 - 12:19 AM

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

 

maybe?

IMG_6432-L.jpg



#37 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2014 - 12:26 AM

Just kidding guys, well maybe down the road.  The TD04 would be too big for this motor, but there are a couple of smaller garrett 15, TD02 or those dollar bill sized ones im keeping an eye one.

 

Back to reality

I was able to pull the engine out and fab up the motor mounts.  I was able to use two of the four OEM mounts.  The others came off of a john deere F series something or another.  I cut the mounts up, and had them lay perp of the frame. Tomorrow, I hope to make the two front mounts, pillars with adjust grade 8 or 12 bolts to level the motor up to the front pulleys. 

IMG_6414-L.jpg

 

fronts.  Ya, those welds look hidious.  I miss having 220 in the garage. 

IMG_6415-L.jpg

 

overall.  You can see the front MM are sitting on the frame only.  Those will get a pillar bolt, all thread to shim as needed

IMG_6416-L.jpg



#38 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2014 - 12:33 AM

Now onto the pulley cluster of fun.

 

I have been looking into a 3 groove pulley that slip with a bushing.  I have found some with 3.25 to 3.75.  Im not sure how much I want to go, it may look like the tensioner pto pulley is right next to the pto but its about 2 " to the right.  So when the manual pto is engauged, I should be able to adjust the throw and tension accordingly. 

 

I have also looked into getting two individual pulleys, one with 2 groove and one for the fan.  the pto would be 3.50 and the fan at 4" to match the fans pulley.  This should maintain maximum air flow.

 

Thoughts?

3 groove or 2 individual pulleys?

 

some numbers

IMG_6428-L.jpg

 

Now this one is 2 to 4 ratio, but like I mentioned I can bump it to 1 to 1 for the fan

IMG_6429-L.jpg



#39 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2014 - 12:40 AM

Heres some pics of the allignment of the pulleys

IMG_6422-L.jpg

 

IMG_6423-L.jpg

 

And I had to throw in the spinning fan. 

IMG_6419-L.jpg

 

So, I talked about having the fan and pto shaft having to share the same space, then UTSmitty sudgested that I could raise the fan shroud, gaining an inch or so.  Seems to have worked just fine.  Also the fan spacer that I ordered came in today.  Heres a look at what I will do to the fan.  Should push the fan face closer to the radiator and free some room for the pulleys and belts for the pto

IMG_6427-L.jpg

 

I may have to add a spacer or two to fine tune the space if needed.



#40 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2014 - 12:41 AM

The smaller the radius of any pulley the less of a load it will handle before it starts to slip. If you have the room your much better off with the 3.5 x 7 combination. 


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#41 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2014 - 12:46 AM

The raditor now gets some ideas for plumbing.  I have mentioned and asked about using rigid lines, plus flex couplings or going with flex hose.  I bent some 1" emt that I had and I kinda like the look of hard lines.  Plus I may be able to add ribs via washers to increase cooling surface pre and post radiator.

IMG_6420-L.jpg

 

The one that exits the pump might be a tough one.  Will see how burned out I will be by friday.

 

 

I have a question about air filter location.  I currently have the filter sitting above the radiator gap.  This would provide warm air during winter months.  It would be benificial for cold starts but after that, does it matter?

IMG_6421-L.jpg



#42 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2014 - 12:47 AM

The more of the fan width you keep inside the shroud the better the fan will move air. It's a shame you can't put the fan between the back side of the grille and the front of the radiator. Use a surface mounted fan like they sell at the auto parts stores. 

http://www.ebay.com/...39ec6e8&vxp=mtr


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#43 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2014 - 12:51 AM

The smaller the radius of any pulley the less of a load it will handle before it starts to slip. If you have the room your much better off with the 3.5 x 7 combination. 

 

I appreciate the info.

 

Now would you stay with standard belts or an adjustable belt?



#44 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2014 - 12:53 AM

The more of the fan width you keep inside the shroud the better the fan will move air. It's a shame you can't put the fan between the back side of the grille and the front of the radiator. Use a surface mounted fan like they sell at the auto parts stores. 

http://www.ebay.com/...39ec6e8&vxp=mtr

So would it be better to be pushing rather than pulling through the radiator?  I guess I could find one with a low profile, then I could add it to the bunch. 

  Im planning to monitor water temp in both inlet and outlet with some in loop taps for meters.


Edited by Pager450n, August 12, 2014 - 01:16 AM.


#45 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted August 12, 2014 - 05:13 AM

BUT as mentioned in the last post, the location of the radiator at the stubs was not enought to utilize a 2 groove pulley and add one more for the radiator fan. I ended up moving it as close to the front as possible.  It was an inch or so, plus I took the shroud and moved it up as well, notching for the outlet as well as the bracket for the radiator
IMG_6430-L.jpg
 
IMG_6425-L.jpg
 
The pulleys have a lot more now, plus I think I can squeeze in a 4" OD pulley.  But I will go with a 3.75" OD just to be safe.
 
Also, the braket for the 425,445 and 455 worked great for the radiator fan.  I took the hood off and took everything off except the vertical supports.  This left me with two 1/2" cuttoffs that were used for the heat/air shroud of the hood.  I took the fan bracket and cut 45 degree 2" patches off the alumn tabs and then drilled out 3?8" holes for hardware.  The result is satisfying, but would still like to figure a wat to tension the belt.  But the bracket is held in by stop nuts/all thread on one end and another has nuts weled to the angle steel, then the belt will be pulled tight and then screwed secure.


The angle steel was welded to the two hood supports and made the whole assembly very stout!
IMG_6422-L.jpg
 
IMG_6423-L.jpg
 
IMG_6424-L.jpg
 
Overall, the clearance looks great.  And for those wondering about the fan, I have ordered two more spacers for the fan
%24_57-M.jpg
 
 
these will bring it out two more inches that will bring the fan closer in the shroud as well as move it away from the pto shaft.  The supporting braket I made also had some minor adjusting so if I need more or less then it can be done.


Looking real good, Ryan!! I'm amazed at how fast you've put this together...

One suggestion--your air filter is pretty close to the radiator and will draw in warm air, which reduces power...try to mount the inlet to get cool air if possible.

Keep it up.... I know who to help me when I take on my next project.... ;o)

Smitty
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