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Jd 400 Mitsubishi L3E Diesel Repower


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#286 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2014 - 11:02 AM

my biggest concern is that the walls have been tappered out.  I would hate to have to bore it out and or get sleeves installed$$$$$$$

 

I'll crack the head and check clearances in the walls. 

 

 

Your pistons and cylinders need to be checked to see if they are within tolerances along with the crankshaft and cam. Valve guides and all bearings. Crankshaft seals should be replaced now. I would wait until you know for sure what your going to need. If you end up needing pistons there is a good chance they will come with the rings and wrist pins included. 

 

 

I'll do a full rebuild regardless.  I feel that if I get into the cookie jar for one, I might as well eat them all. :)


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#287 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 16, 2014 - 09:20 PM

Well, Santa decided to get me some rings, connecting rod bearings and whole gasket kit for my l3e. It was about 500 shipped.

So should I continue with this thread or dedicate one for a 3 cyl rebuild? I will document as I have with the repower, as well as some videos ( getting a gopro too)let me know if you want anything specific.

So mitsubishi lays out the rings as standard, .025 and .050, so I ordered standard. I figure if the rings we're say .005 the. I would take the head off first and check. But I figure I am safe to take standard and go with it.

Wish me luck.......again
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#288 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2014 - 01:09 AM

Ok, engine is just about down to bare block.  I am conteplating on how far this rebuild will go.  

Do I take the injector cam out as well as the lifter out then replace the bearings?  

Do I take the block in and steam clean it?  The PO had too much water in so when I drained the radiator this morning, DARK brown. Do I replace the t stat?

Will standard rings/piston be enough?

 

Now for the iffy stuff I found out regarding #2 problem child piston.

 

The piston and rings somehow ended up off center in the cylinder thus creating a minor lip for about 80% around the wall.  Now I would assume that I can take a ridge reamer and take that off.  I checked the construction of the piston itself and the first 10 mm or so consist of 3 sections divided by a groove.  So basically where the ridge begins, the piston compression would not be affected (as far as I can tell)  The piston itself has minor wear as well as slight scuffing on one side.  I have seen a lot worse, so as of now it will remain and get new rings.

All the valves were caked with carbon buildup.  They looked good, but will need a good cleaning, grinding the angles and re seating.  

The head looks great.  No visible sign of any stress in one area.  Valve guides looked good and tight.  I will need to clean the water passages to get rid of some minor buildup.

 

and finally, the crank looks great as well.  I wish they you use bearings for the journal surfaces on all small engines.  Makes for a cleaner and easier rebuild, in my opinion.

 

Well, Here is a 10 min video of the block and all the parts laied out.  I ramble on and on, but I showed some goodies along with the lip (if visible) and head.  Camera, I mean the phone would focus in and out, sorry.

 

Hmm, well the video is not uploading, sorry.  I will post it up tomorrow.

 

 


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#289 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2014 - 12:14 PM

The ring ridge like that is usually do to the thrust line of the connecting rod and is not all the unusual. If you think about it when the crank throw is horizontal the rod it is pushing the piston at quite an angle. The higher the compression ratio the more the the side ways thrust is going to be. Other factors play into it also such as length of stroke. I've seen some instances where there is little or no ridge on one side and a big ridge on the other. 

Looking forward to the video.


Edited by Cvans, December 19, 2014 - 12:15 PM.

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#290 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2014 - 03:43 PM

Here is the video.  Im looking at how much it might cost to go .025 over.  Right now, the cost is 185 each plus 2-3 weeks out :wallbanging:

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=r6Q5xLh_cpQ

 

How do I imbed the video so you just have to click?



#291 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2014 - 04:00 PM


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#292 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2014 - 04:08 PM

Here is the video.  Im looking at how much it might cost to go .025 over.  Right now, the cost is 185 each plus 2-3 weeks out :wallbanging:

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=r6Q5xLh_cpQ

 

How do I imbed the video so you just have to click?

 

Just copy the browser address line when you are at your video, then simply paste into the reply box.  It automatically takes care of it.


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#293 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2014 - 05:28 PM

I would take it to a reputable machine shop and get their opinion. Without being there that #1 piston would be a concern. 

You did a nice job of cleaning things up and sorting things out. The video was good too. Thanks.

 

Thanks for the update.



#294 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2014 - 08:58 PM

Well, looks like even after reaming the edge, I couldnt get it down to spec.  So.... bore time, and will be going 25 over.

 

Heres a pic of the #2 ring, kinda worn out!

 

 

 

gallery_53757_705_1176776.jpg

 

 

Now I have taken the block down to nothing other than itself.  I am going to take it and get it prof cleaned in a steam costic oven.  A shop will be doing this for $20, so I am throwing in the oil pan, valve cover and head.  All free plugs and oil passages are open and cleared.

 

I would take it to a reputable machine shop and get their opinion. Without being there that #1 piston would be a concern. 

You did a nice job of cleaning things up and sorting things out. The video was good too. Thanks.

 

Thanks for the update.

your welcome,  if anything I want to add some visual learning to some who have not gotten into a diesel engine. 

 

Not sure how organized I am, but heres the working table as of tonight.  I just hope I can remember how to put this all back together.

gallery_53757_705_1179827.jpg

 

 

Block and other goodies in the parts washer. 

gallery_53757_705_71489.jpg


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#295 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted December 19, 2014 - 11:09 PM

 

 

 I just hope I can remember how to put this all back together.

That's not a very good feeling is it. Been there, but for some reason they always seem to go back together. 



#296 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2014 - 12:18 AM

Now I have been looking over a couple of options to get this thing going, snows coming!

I am looking at possibly sleeving the cylinders. I think I can bore it out past to use a jegs sleeve, Melling 689-csl710. @30.99 each
Specs are
bore:2.9920"
Lenght: 5 1/4"
Wall Thickness 1/8"
http://www.jegs.com/...oductId=1713331

Now standard size bore is 2.9921" or 76mm for the l3e.

Currently, the idea was to bore it 25 over, and cost with oversized will add up at $188 for each piston with rings AND then I have to order oversized head gasket.

Im at 500 bucks and I can stomach another 200 bucks for the sleeve idea, but if the sleeping doesn't work. I will be forced to throw another $564 for oversized pistons then I guess $60-70 for the oversized headgasket. Id be over $1,000 on this rebuild. :mad2:

OR I find a thick walled sleeve (about 7/32") to drop the bore from 2.9921 to 2.5591 to accomidate a L3A engine rebuild kit I found on ebay for $117 shipped that has all new.....
pistons
rings
connecting rods
gaskets
t stat
valve guides
and all other goodies. Heres the link
http://www.ebay.com/...nc#ht_314wt_916

:wallbanging: :wallbanging: :wallbanging: :wallbanging: :wallbanging:

Edited by Pager450n, December 20, 2014 - 01:13 AM.

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#297 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2014 - 07:36 AM

 

I would take it to a reputable machine shop and get their opinion. Without being there that #1 piston would be a concern.

Have you taken it to a machine shop where they could inspect that piston and do some measuring of the bores?   They might have some experience with small diesels to know just how   forgiving they are to factory specs .   If  not   I know buying oversize pistons is a lot of $$$  but it should be the last time you will need to do it .  I'm enjoying reading this thread   , good luck , al


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#298 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2014 - 03:42 PM

Have you taken it to a machine shop where they could inspect that piston and do some measuring of the bores?   They might have some experience with small diesels to know just how   forgiving they are to factory specs .   If  not   I know buying oversize pistons is a lot of $$$  but it should be the last time you will need to do it .  I'm enjoying reading this thread   , good luck , al

Im glad you can enjoy this.   I am, and its cheap schooling. 
I have three diesel mechanics at work who are helping me with measuring and micing the bore.  I plan to head in monday and see if my machinist might be able to help me on possibly sleeving down to 17hp size (65 mm)


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#299 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2014 - 05:14 PM

Anybody know if they (mitsubishi) used the same head on all L series engines?

 

Does anyone have a parts manual for the L series?  I already have the service, just needing the L series similar to what we have on the K series that Kenny uploaded.

 

Thanks


Edited by Pager450n, December 20, 2014 - 05:27 PM.

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#300 KennyP ONLINE  

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Posted December 20, 2014 - 05:33 PM

You have a model # besides just L3E? If so go here!


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