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Jd 400 Mitsubishi L3E Diesel Repower


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#16 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2014 - 05:13 PM

But for the most par t of today, im please with how the engine sits.  I will not have to worry about cutting into the frame like I mentioned before, plus I have a decent location for the oil drain.  It sits in an open area between the pto and rear engine mounting location.  There is also about 1" of space between the bottom of the oil pan and the frame, so airflow will get around there just fine.

 

Hood closes, well for now.  I still need to get the radiator in and te oil cooler and the battery

IMG_6346-XL.jpg

 

IMG_6348-XL.jpg

 

 

oil pan location/ oil drain

IMG_6338-XL.jpg

 

oil cooler location.  Im also looking at possibly using Hifax off snowmobiles that would run the lenght between the driveshaft input and output.  Seems a little tight, then throw in a battery and hardly any air flow for the cooler.

IMG_6339-XL.jpg


Edited by Pager450n, July 31, 2014 - 05:17 PM.

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#17 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2014 - 06:56 PM

Im currently looking at what I need to monitor on this engine. 

I currently have the oil pressure, but im looking into cooling temp (radiator) possible current. 

Possible RPM- 2500 give or take, egt (for future td02 turbo) that will bring in boost monitoring. 

Would you monitor fuel pressure and hydro temp?  would be nice to have a guage cluster similar to my edge CTS on my cummins, but have it be analog inputs. 

 

So, any good reviews of brands for these meters?  The 400 will be in and out in the weather. 


Edited by Pager450n, July 31, 2014 - 07:01 PM.


#18 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2014 - 09:21 PM

Suggestion. Move the fan around to the front of the radiator if you have room. all of my radiators were mounted on the other end of the engine to keep the hose runs as short as possible and to keep the PTO end of the engine uncluttered. Others have been successful doing it your way and hopefully they will have suggestions for you. 

You might be able to find a copper sweat fitting that will just fit the lower hose fitting and be able to change the outlet angle. Something like a street 45. I've done this with good results.



#19 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2014 - 09:40 PM

Suggestion. Move the fan around to the front of the radiator if you have room. all of my radiators were mounted on the other end of the engine to keep the hose runs as short as possible and to keep the PTO end of the engine uncluttered. Others have been successful doing it your way and hopefully they will have suggestions for you. 

You might be able to find a copper sweat fitting that will just fit the lower hose fitting and be able to change the outlet angle. Something like a street 45. I've done this with good results.

 

 

Id like to look into the fan in the front.  I guess it can be done, just not sure of the looks.  But whats more important is the functionality. 

 

Ill snap a shot of the radiator to see if the inlet can be moved or maybe im out 100 bucks or so :wallbanging:



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Posted July 31, 2014 - 11:49 PM

Ryan

 

Looking at the oil pan/drain location picture, I can see one of the OEM JD mounts, and a couple bolt holes in the lower block of the engine.  It would be fairly simple to attache a plate to the bolt holes, then weld a bracket that would fit on the rubber pad on the motor mount... can't see what the back end has, but if the rubber pad is still there, you could make the mount extend front and rear.


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#21 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 01, 2014 - 12:02 AM

Ryan
 
Looking at the oil pan/drain location picture, I can see one of the OEM JD mounts, and a couple bolt holes in the lower block of the engine.  It would be fairly simple to attache a plate to the bolt holes, then weld a bracket that would fit on the rubber pad on the motor mount... can't see what the back end has, but if the rubber pad is still there, you could make the mount extend front and rear.


I was planning on using both front and rear OEM mounts, but the front ones had to be cut out to make room for the radiator. But I'll be using the rears for sure.

I was looking at the possibilities of using a JD 455 radiator fan mount that would bring the use of a mechanical radiator fan.
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#22 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2014 - 12:56 PM

Being that I finally have a day off from work, I figured I could get a little work on the 400.

 

Last week I was able to decide where the new (318 coil) hydro cooler will be located.  Since there will be no room up front and none by the battery as I was planning.  I looked below, and found the spot.

IMG_6409-M.jpg

 

IMG_6411-L.jpg

 

It sits nicely below the body, but nothing too extreme.  Im planning on running a flat bar, or angle iron across both ends to make a perminate mount.  Its currently wedged on the loop ends and zip tied to hold the other end.  I like this spot simply becuase its easy to maintain, not crouding and a lot of open air.

IMG_6408-M.jpg

 

 

Since its below everthing, I would assume the air will be pulled or pushed depending on air temps.  Also, the previous lines for the hydro cooler will slip on the ends.  Im hoping that this will cut some cost that I will be incurring on hydro lines.



#23 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2014 - 01:14 PM

I also got my radiator back from a local shop.  He has done a lot of radiators for me and never disapoints.  You might wonder why I have to fix a brand new radiator, well this is the reason, both inlet and outlet were on the same side AND I would run into the pto idler pulley.

IMG_5264-M.jpg

 

with fan and tentative location.  You can see the problem with the pulley

IMG_6344-M.jpg

 

So I also was going to use a elec fan and have that cool,  but I ran into another problem.  The pto out the flywheel would be in the way.  So possible issue resolved.  I bought a JD 425 saddle mount with radiator cooling fan that I sould be able to mount up just fine to the frame or motor.  I cut the elec fan off, leaving the shroud and it looks fine to me. 

 

IMG_6401-M.jpg

 

The fan fits great, and now im deciding how to get a belt to it and still manage to get the pto working.

IMG_6405-M.jpg

 

Duh, heres a pic of the fixed radiator

 

IMG_6400-M.jpg

 

 

And how things are looking for the repower

IMG_6403-L.jpg


Edited by Pager450n, August 08, 2014 - 01:21 PM.

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#24 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2014 - 01:20 PM

RPM issue

 

Before the JD400 ran the pto at the axle at arounf 1700 rpm give or take.  Now the diesel runs at a lower rpm and will have a smaller OD pulley

 

Here is what I have come up with.  With a 2000 rpm drive, and using the 7" pto, and a new 4" dual groove pulley this will give me approx 1100 rpm @ pto.  Also the radiator fan will be @ 1500 rpm using the same 4" pulley on the engine. 

 

On the bright side, this will put the rear pto closer to a 540 pto?  If not, I can take apart the rear casing and change out the gears to get the original, designed rpm for the tiller. 

 

And on the front of the 400, I have a gravely 44 sweeper that would like the slower rpm, right? 



#25 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2014 - 02:26 PM

Also, can I get away with only using one pulley for the pto, or do I need both? I know many elec pto systems use only one, but if I can use just one, then that will free up a groove for the fan.

#26 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted August 08, 2014 - 05:57 PM

I think I know what your saying so here goes. I have always used both belts for the PTO. On the other hand if your deck only uses one belt you might get by with one on the PTO. . If you go to a raw rubber edged belt you will have more traction on that belt. 

Is there a chance that you can add another pulley to the original?


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#27 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2014 - 05:57 AM

Hold on!! Shouldn't that Mitsubishi turn up to 3600 rpm ?? It should easily at least go to 3000. If not your hydro isn't going to like it much.
I would be firing that thing up right quick to make sure I had the proper revs. Then you can figure out your shaft speeds.
I had a doosy of a time with mine trying to match my rear pto speed to Bolens's pto speed on my diesel converted Ford LGT.
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#28 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2014 - 08:49 AM

Hold on!! Shouldn't that Mitsubishi turn up to 3600 rpm ?? It should easily at least go to 3000. If not your hydro isn't going to like it much.
I would be firing that thing up right quick to make sure I had the proper revs. Then you can figure out your shaft speeds.
I had a doosy of a time with mine trying to match my rear pto speed to Bolens's pto speed on my diesel converted Ford LGT.


You are correct. I looked at the specs last night, will be able to turn easily at 3000. I'm just not sure if I want to run it wot all the time.

I think I know what your saying so here goes. I have always used both belts for the PTO. On the other hand if your deck only uses one belt you might get by with one on the PTO. . If you go to a raw rubber edged belt you will have more traction on that belt. 
Is there a chance that you can add another pulley to the original?


I'm hoping that with the configuration, I can still use a two groove pulley and add another for the fan. Just not a lot of room left over in the front.
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#29 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2014 - 08:54 PM

All right,  I love when plans go well.  So I first took the mrs out to dinner last night, and cashed in my kitchen pass to working the garage all day, WOOHOO!

 

I was able to get the radiator in, matched to the fan, and lined up the pulleys. 

So, I took two stances with the radiator postion.  First one ended up where the little nubs are for the grill.  It didnt look too bad, but gave little room to use a 2 groove pulley.

 

IMG_6405-L.jpg

 

the shaft goes into the fan shroud by an inch.

front looks good, but still could use some work

IMG_6415-L.jpg

 

also, I had to, well as a precaution took the headlights out (backsides) and left the lens.  I may do some LEDs or HIDS, will find out later.  The radiator cap has a good 2 " from bottom of hood when closed.

IMG_6418-L.jpg

 

 

 

 


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#30 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted August 09, 2014 - 09:15 PM

BUT as mentioned in the last post, the location of the radiator at the stubs was not enought to utilize a 2 groove pulley and add one more for the radiator fan. I ended up moving it as close to the front as possible.  It was an inch or so, plus I took the shroud and moved it up as well, notching for the outlet as well as the bracket for the radiator

IMG_6430-L.jpg

 

IMG_6425-L.jpg

 

The pulleys have a lot more now, plus I think I can squeeze in a 4" OD pulley.  But I will go with a 3.75" OD just to be safe.

 

Also, the braket for the 425,445 and 455 worked great for the radiator fan.  I took the hood off and took everything off except the vertical supports.  This left me with two 1/2" cuttoffs that were used for the heat/air shroud of the hood.  I took the fan bracket and cut 45 degree 2" patches off the alumn tabs and then drilled out 3?8" holes for hardware.  The result is satisfying, but would still like to figure a wat to tension the belt.  But the bracket is held in by stop nuts/all thread on one end and another has nuts weled to the angle steel, then the belt will be pulled tight and then screwed secure.

The angle steel was welded to the two hood supports and made the whole assembly very stout!

IMG_6422-L.jpg

 

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Overall, the clearance looks great.  And for those wondering about the fan, I have ordered two more spacers for the fan

%24_57-M.jpg

 

 

these will bring it out two more inches that will bring the fan closer in the shroud as well as move it away from the pto shaft.  The supporting braket I made also had some minor adjusting so if I need more or less then it can be done.


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