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Jd 400 Mitsubishi L3E Diesel Repower


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#271 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2014 - 06:07 PM

I have had the engine running for over 1/2 hr. The engine is plenty hot. So I tried to do a restart and it did not fire right away, I had to hit the glow plugs????


Wouldn't that scream lack of compression?


Thoughts?

Edited by Pager450n, December 02, 2014 - 06:12 PM.

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#272 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2014 - 07:21 PM

Its screaming something?? Timing issue maybe ? How does it run ? does it have good throttle response? Is it powerless? Does it smoke all the time?


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#273 diesel nut ONLINE  

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Posted December 02, 2014 - 10:50 PM

The running till hot and then needing the glow plugs to restart sounds like a compression issue to me, but the only ones I've run into that did that were the old International diesels from the 60's and 70's.  All the Mitsubishi's I worked on that acted like this ones doing were something to do with the ip, injectors, fuel flow, air filter, or glow plugs.  Is there an electric shutdown soleniod on the injection pump?  I have a Dodge with the Cummins in it and it has one.  Driving down the road i hit a couple big bumps and the wire jiggled loose and shut the engine off and wouldn't restart right away till the engine shaking jiggled the wire again and it made contact.  Drove me nuts for almost a week trying to figure that one out.  Might be something else to check too.          Stewart 


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#274 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2014 - 02:02 AM

The running till hot and then needing the glow plugs to restart sounds like a compression issue to me, but the only ones I've run into that did that were the old International diesels from the 60's and 70's.  All the Mitsubishi's I worked on that acted like this ones doing were something to do with the ip, injectors, fuel flow, air filter, or glow plugs.  Is there an electric shutdown soleniod on the injection pump?  I have a Dodge with the Cummins in it and it has one.  Driving down the road i hit a couple big bumps and the wire jiggled loose and shut the engine off and wouldn't restart right away till the engine shaking jiggled the wire again and it made contact.  Drove me nuts for almost a week trying to figure that one out.  Might be something else to check too.          Stewart


It does. It use to work real well then the coil wouldn't work too well at all. Come to think of it, I checked to see if the coil was open ,and it was bad. So I have been manually pushing the rod in.

Stewart, could this be holding the IP back? I still won't help the compression of the cylinders but if thuis rod is sticking halfway, then sure, small throne in my side.

#275 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2014 - 04:10 AM

I had a Mitsubishi in a cat excavator drive me nuts, found out it was a timing issue, seems it had 2 marks on the injector pump drive gear, one for turbo and one for non turbo, it ran OK once it started, but boys,oh boy did it start hard... Every time.. So I moved it and it fired instantly. All this was done while the engine was out of it... You ever work on a zero tail swing 308 you will know..... Tight.... Who doggy....

#276 diesel nut ONLINE  

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Posted December 03, 2014 - 01:23 PM

It does. It use to work real well then the coil wouldn't work too well at all. Come to think of it, I checked to see if the coil was open ,and it was bad. So I have been manually pushing the rod in.

Stewart, could this be holding the IP back? I still won't help the compression of the cylinders but if thuis rod is sticking halfway, then sure, small throne in my side.

Its possible that the rod is sticking part way and partially causing the hard start.  You could try moving it in and out as your trying to start it to see if it makes a difference.  I showed my dad the videos of the injector spray patterns and the compression readings you got and he said it deffinatly needs at least rings and the one with the real low reading could be caused by glazed rings from a leaking injector or a broken ring or two.  I've done rings in several of the Mitsubishi engines in the Cub Cadet compact tractors and they're not too bad to do.  The biggest problem I ran into was some of them have press fit wrist pins instead of being held in with snap rings.  Those are a pita to deal with if you're going to change the pistons too.  If your going to put new pistons in too and they have the press fit wrist pin I'd recommend taking them to an engine rebuilder to have the new pins put in.       Stewart


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#277 skyrydr2 ONLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2014 - 04:13 AM

Have you run this thing hard yet??? I mean HARD! Rolling coal out it for extended periods... Like pushing am w or dirt, or snowblowing?:
How does it run pushing it hard?? Does it feel like its skipping? Is it smoking at idle ?
You want to take a compression check after you work it hard , this will verify if you have a low compression issue, as it now should not be washed down with fuel. And if were that bad i would imagine the oil would get dilluted pretty fast too. Check your valves , this can also cause poor starts and lousy running.
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#278 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2014 - 11:57 AM

Have you run this thing hard yet??? I mean HARD! Rolling coal out it for extended periods... Like pushing am w or dirt, or snowblowing?:
How does it run pushing it hard?? Does it feel like its skipping? Is it smoking at idle ?
You want to take a compression check after you work it hard , this will verify if you have a low compression issue, as it now should not be washed down with fuel. And if were that bad i would imagine the oil would get dilluted pretty fast too. Check your valves , this can also cause poor starts and lousy running.


Well, I'm still waiting for snow, it's 50 degrees right now with snow up in the mountians. When I had it hooked up to the tiller, I tried my hardest to bog the engine down, roll some coal, but there is too much engine for the tiller. My only hope is the snow blower and some heavy snow.

It's smoking a little bit at idle, I'm guessing because I put both ATF and some seafoam in the fuel. After I run this. I should be clean.

I'm going to check the valves today as well as the timing on the IP. Will post results when completed. I know it's gonna need rings, but what a pain to find local distributors.

#279 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2014 - 12:50 PM

Anybody know of a place within the us that sells these kits at a good cost? I called a local shop, they want over $500 for just the gasket kit, but the ring kit was decent at under $100 for all three, standard size.

I found one place, over seas, that sells the kit for under $160 USD. Not sure how much shipping would be, but it would be better than 5bills.

So the kit I have found is from across the pond, but not too sure about the seller. Website is machinerypark.com/diesel-engine-mitsubishi-l3e-used-de-65510. Based out of Germany, and with the cost of 154.37USD would I take the chance? Anybody order from companies over there?

Edited by Pager450n, December 04, 2014 - 01:50 PM.

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#280 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted December 04, 2014 - 06:50 PM

You might see if you can pay with paypal. Then at least you would have a means of handling a dispute. 



#281 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 05, 2014 - 12:07 AM

Tonight's results.

Drum roll please.........."......."......... Starts better than before with new glow plugs, adjusted valve clearances of .010 and did not check timing of the IP.

I did check the compression again, similar results, BUT I also added oil to cyl 1 and 3. Both psi endings went up to 425 or so.

I also added, for fun, a indicator light for the glow plug to show voltage.

So, overall, I think I can live with a little less cranking, not instant, but it's a lot better than before.
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#282 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2014 - 07:25 PM

Some good news finally. Found someone fairly close, Vegas, that have the items needed for a rebuild

"Mr. Page,

The L3E Complete Engine Gasket Set is 178.00. The Std Rod Bearings are 48.75/ per rod. The Std Piston Ring Set- 58.95/ per set (per piston). "

So for about $500, I can do a rebuild. That's if I don't have a damaged cylinder that has a bad taper

I plan to order this weekend and get the rebuild going in a week or two.

#283 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted December 08, 2014 - 09:59 PM

Can I suggest from experience that you wait on ordering until you have the engine completely tore down and inspected. It sure beats having to pay restocking and shipping fees to return things or order more parts. 


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#284 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2014 - 12:17 AM

Should I order just rings? Then order the gasket kit later?

#285 Cvans OFFLINE  

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Posted December 09, 2014 - 01:13 AM

Your pistons and cylinders need to be checked to see if they are within tolerances along with the crankshaft and cam. Valve guides and all bearings. Crankshaft seals should be replaced now. I would wait until you know for sure what your going to need. If you end up needing pistons there is a good chance they will come with the rings and wrist pins included. 


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