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Jd 400 Mitsubishi L3E Diesel Repower


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#211 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2014 - 07:51 AM

The stock JD 400 rear pto speed is 840 rpm. It is the only GT ever made to run that speed.

 

That is in the same speed area as the Bush Hog JB & D series.....around 800rpm.


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#212 Tim Bergfeld OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2014 - 09:20 AM

Yeah mine will be a direct dive from the motor to the clutch to the rear pto housing so would have to check into a gear swap if possible


Tim

#213 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2014 - 11:25 AM

As this rebuild is wrapping up.  Is there anything that I have missed, documentation?  Any request?  Please let me know.  I want to add to the vast knowledge found on the internet AND provide a complete and finished how to.  I have come across many that get going, then they stop and dont finish.  So, hopefully this thread will be helpful to someone else wanting to repower.

 

 

I have been digging, trying to find the folder associated with the pto rebuild. 

 

I should be able to upgrade the drive sprocket in the pto to a smaller on and get it going as close to stock.

 

So I did post a video of the tiller and engine working together yesterda.  Im not sure if I am doing too much with the documentation or not.  If so, let me know.

 

 

WARNING: The following video may contain a certian individual whos background in BS is minimal, he loves his tractor, his actions are legit, smells like diesel and gives "thumbs up" :thumbs: . 

Veiwer discression is advised.

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=_CzGibMsfvE


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#214 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2014 - 11:34 AM

That tiller appears to run about the same tine shaft speed as the hydraulic driven Case tillers, and will as you found out, till just fine.  If you wanted to speed it up, I'd change the lower sprocket at the end of the tiller itself to a smaller sprocket.  Much cheaper & simpler than altering the pto gearbox.


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#215 Tim Bergfeld OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2014 - 01:37 PM

Great video I agree with ol cowhand it will be changing the lower sprocket on mine it will be a lot cheaper


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#216 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2014 - 05:59 PM

I might just leave it. Seemed to do just fine. I will still check the drive pulley of the pto for my sweeper project.

#217 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 19, 2014 - 07:34 PM

Very very nice and your diesel sounds great  :thumbs:

The big advantage to running the tiller at a lower speed is when you till between small plants. Your tiller will not tend to cover them. I have found when tilling between Sweet Corn rows that the tiller turning slower does a beautiful job. 


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#218 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2014 - 05:16 PM

Thanks guys. I have been thinking about how the tiller worked yesterday. I decided to play around one more time with it. It tills like a dream and I have a finished surface that looks like dirt/ manure frosting.

I think I will keep the new speed and take it nice and slow

#219 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2014 - 05:22 PM

Ok now on to the next mod to this tractor, LED light bar.

I'm gonna need some help with this one. First off the LED pucks are rated at 3.4-3.6 vdc. They put out 180-200lm each and my current layout will have a total of 12 with focus caps of 120 degrees.

I burned one out already trying out the intensity. I need to throw in some resistors and possible puck packs to lower the voltage.

Any thoughts on how this can be ran? The voltage is of course 12vdc, and will hook them up in series, so any thoughts would be helpful.

#220 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2014 - 10:45 PM

And since the sun had come out last week, I had to take some shots.  Couldnt resist the contrasting clouds.

 

BRING on the snow, I mean dirt!

IMG_7071-L.jpg

 

IMG_7078-L.jpg

 

IMG_7079-L.jpg

 

 

I wil lpost pics of it complete, including seat, lights and radiator cover.  I will need to flush fluids, change filter and she should be good to go.

That is an AWESOME looking tractor Ryan... the pictures are especially striking with the clouds in the background, etc.  I'm gonna save them for my gallery...

 

Utah Smitty



#221 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2014 - 10:49 PM

If what your saying about voltage is true, your going to have to hook at least 3 and better yet 4 of those lights in series to keep from burning them out. Your alternator can run up to 14.5 volts so I would start with 4 in series.



#222 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted October 20, 2014 - 11:04 PM

Ok now on to the next mod to this tractor, LED light bar.

I'm gonna need some help with this one. First off the LED pucks are rated at 3.4-3.6 vdc. They put out 180-200lm each and my current layout will have a total of 12 with focus caps of 120 degrees.

I burned one out already trying out the intensity. I need to throw in some resistors and possible puck packs to lower the voltage.

Any thoughts on how this can be ran? The voltage is of course 12vdc, and will hook them up in series, so any thoughts would be helpful.

Send me a PM, Ryan, and I'll give you my son Jay's email address, etc.  He has done a lot with LED lights with a saltwater aquarium he had and he might be able to help you out in designing your system.

 

Smitty


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#223 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 05:28 PM

So heres some shots of the LEDs for the light bar.

3W, 700 mA. 

gallery_53757_711_181816.jpg

 

Voltage to the lights.

gallery_53757_711_711187.jpg

 

Proposed LED layout. 

gallery_53757_711_960200.jpg

 

So with 9 at 3.8W each, im going to be pulling 34.2 watts, and total Amps of 6.3.  So I have bypassed the idea of using a resistor, and ordered a LED driver that will handle 1-40W, 12vDC source, with 630mA.  IT should be close enough.

 

 


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#224 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 10:36 PM

OK, I now have to burn some time before those LED drivers show up.  But first, I have to let you know what happened tonight.

So, I played with the tiller again, and drove it back to the garage, parked it outside and went to get some front weights.  I went to engage the hydro and nothing happened???  So I took a look and the driveshaft was turning ever so little.  Hmm, things looked ok, so I turned it off and took another look.  TA DA, the keyway had come out of the u joint on the engine side.

 

Out came the welder.  Now Im not to weld anything super great or something that will weaken the steel.  But after thinking that it could have been in the middle of a feild or at a neighbors house.  I decided to throw in another longer keyway and weld it to the driveshaft. 

gallery_53757_712_1087181.jpg

 

I didnt want to take the battery out and weld from topside down, the only other way was to weld up from below. I guess I now know that gravity still affects molten metal.

gallery_53757_712_1561968.jpg

 

 

I began welding laying on my back with my mask on.  Things were going well, some spitting from the wire were burning holes in my shirt.  Then all of a sudden I could smell that oh so nasty smell of burning hair.  I quickly squrmed out from under the tractor, at the same time trying to swat what ever it was that was now causing a wonderful burning sensation on my now bald and blistered chin.   I later told my wife and she couldnt help but laugh and laugh about my expereince.   I guess facial hair is a good thing.  It has many applications to ones face.  I found out tonight that it provides a warning smell to pending discomfort to ones "chiny chin chin"


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#225 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted October 21, 2014 - 10:38 PM

Ever since I have had this newly rebuilt starter, my voltage has been steady, no voltage draw.  So good thing I guess

 

Oh, and I started looking at this little mod too!

 

gallery_53757_712_2050457.jpg


Edited by Pager450n, October 21, 2014 - 10:39 PM.

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