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Jd 400 Mitsubishi L3E Diesel Repower


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#1 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2014 - 05:28 PM

You read it correct, im going to put a 3 cy diesel into my 1975 JD 400.  I rebuilt the K532 alomst a year to this date, and it only has 34 hrs on it.  A fellow member UTSmitty sent me a heads up on a L3E for sale localy.  Price was good, had a missing water plug, but after getting it running,  I have been gathering parts via ebay, summit racing, Baleyney and grainge, parts are now all here. 

 

I will post a spreadsheet of all the listings, est price and product for this build.  I hope this will help others as the experienced chime in on my many questions that will be on thier way.  This will be a transplant lasting, until Sept ( I hope)

Please replay to help build a decent thread to help others jump on the coal train :D

 

I think I will post each task will be posted on its own posting.  I figure that will help break it down for others.

 

Enigne.  Mitsubishi L3E, 1.0L displacement

IMG_5084-L.jpg

 

For starters, two adapters had to be turned, one for the front and rear outputs.  The 400 needs both, hydro drive for rear and manual engagement PTO for front.  see pics

 

REAR PTO STUB (used a kohler 25 hp shaft) turned down

before

IMG_5117-L.jpg

 

turning

IMG_5130-L.jpg

 

UTSmitty helping out, BTW

 

Final result, will cut keyway in for new driveshaft

IMG_5260-L.jpg


Edited by Pager450n, June 07, 2014 - 05:30 PM.

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#2 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2014 - 05:46 PM

FRONT PTO

 

flywheel inside measurement

IMG_5418-L.jpg

 

outside lip

IMG_5420-L.jpg

 

Me and Smitty got together again and looked at the options.  We decided to turn the zerotun pto shaft down to the first measurement, around 5.118"

 

This is the only pic I have of the pto, its rough OD was 5.35", so turning was in order for sure.

IMG_5423-L.jpg

 

took a good 1hr to turn the OD down to the needed 5.118"

IMG_5531-L.jpg

 

rough fit, notice the PTO face is out a rough 1/8 or so. Again, my RTS is acting up.

IMG_5536-L.jpg

 

turning the marriage face down flush

IMG_5537-L.jpg

 

IMG_5542-L.jpg

 

flush, but Smitty will be transfering the bolt pattern off the flywheel for me and finish it up.  After which, the project will be a GO!  Last item off the list.

IMG_5545-L.jpg


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#3 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2014 - 05:53 PM

Very interesting repower. Thanks for posting. 



#4 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2014 - 05:56 PM

RADIATOR

 

Picked it off the one auction site, seems to fit nicely (in my mind, of course)  15.5 x 18 top of cap

IMG_5262-L.jpg

 

IMG_5264-L.jpg

 

As for air flow, im shooting for a elec fan off a 91 accord.  It has only 4 blades compared to the stock radiator fan of 7

IMG_5268-L.jpg

 

I made the shrowd out of 14 gauge tin.

IMG_5405-L.jpg

 

IMG_5406-L.jpg

 

IMG_5409-L.jpg

 

The pull from the fan is really nice, im not sure if I like the idea of a elec fan in lieu of a engine ran fan.  I may look into putting the radiator between the engine and the driving console???? But for now, im happy with the side profile.

IMG_5267-L.jpg


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#5 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2014 - 06:02 PM

DRIVESHAFT

 

I looked up the mod done by a fellow WFMer.  The idea is to have a two piece, but im not sure if I will go through with it, but who knows

 

I have to break down two of the three  u joints, one was a 3/4" and the other 1"

IMG_5483-L.jpg

 

assembly

IMG_5484-L.jpg

 

IMG_5485-L.jpg

 

finished product.  The u joint is for the hydro end. 

 

IMG_5487-L.jpg

 

Now, the existing hydro fan is set to be welded onto the u joint, 3/4 side.


Edited by Pager450n, June 07, 2014 - 07:20 PM.

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#6 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2014 - 06:13 PM

HYDROCOOLER

 

With the new u joints, I wanted to update the cooling system for the 400.  I know the bar style cooler works great with the air cooled engine, but needed a different option that would stradle the driveshaft, due to space issues.   Picked one up again off a site for a decent price.

 

IMG_5500-L.jpg

 

side view

IMG_5501-L.jpg

 

should fit :D

IMG_5502-L.jpg

 

I have been thinking about how I might get air flow since the L3E has no belt side fan and the radiator fan is a pull, fighting agains the flywheel wall will be tough.  So I have been looking into some hydro fans off Cubs, Jacobs, and JDs.  Id realy like to get another jd400 driveshaft fan. but they only come with the driveshaft.

Heres what I have.........for now.  4.5" OD x 1" ID .  Will weld onto a 1" ring and build a shroud to direct air once it gets placed into the jd

IMG_5514-L.jpg

 

OR I could use the radiator fan, mount the radiator as mention for option B and stack the cooler behind the radiator?????

IMG_5516-L.jpg

 

 

This is up to date as of today.  I plan to get this thing going soon!


Edited by Pager450n, June 07, 2014 - 06:18 PM.

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#7 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted June 07, 2014 - 11:19 PM

Good summary Ryan!  We need to look at the Toro L3E and see if the electric PTO on it will work--assuming you want it. Also has the coupler for the driveline.  The engine is placed backwards for the mower--same as your JS400. 

IMG_20140606_183856_5751.jpg IMG_20140606_184427_4341.jpg

 

 

Many Toros actually run a driveline over the top of the engine to drive the fan, but this one, since it's driven off the front of the engine, just uses the crank pulley.

 

IMG_20140607_220925_3841.jpg IMG_20140607_221050_6741.jpg

 

The PTO belt drives a drive line that runs along the left side of the machine to drive to mower deck.  It looks like it's a wide V belt, but it's actually a married double V belt, so it shouldn't be a problem to run two single V belts if you want to do that.

 

IMG_20140607_221118_4511.jpg

 

I actually prefer a mechanically-actuated PTO, ala' Cub Cadet, Bolens, etc.  Seems they are more reliable over all, and easier to fix when something wears out--just pulleys and bearings in the case of the Bolens.

 

Smitty

 

 

 

 

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#8 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2014 - 06:50 PM

All right, lets get this repower going.  Thanks to UTsmitty, we (he) machined the last parts that I needed to get both ends to PTO.

Heres the pic of the flywheel side.

IMG_6292-L.jpg

 

installed

 

IMG_6304-L.jpg

 

I believe im looking at a 1 1/8" for the front PTO.  I tagged the original spinning at 3600 rpm via kohler and I was @ 1780 rpm.  I will have to crunch some numbers to get the right speed for the rear pto to match the original RPM as well as not be running the L3E at WOT.  Id like to get the engine to run the pto at around 2000 RPM, leaving a little extra, just in case.

 

Now the driveshaft PTO was just a slip on, relying on the two set screws, but I wanted a little more grip, so I purchased a cutting head, and gave it to steve who had a keyway cut in.

IMG_6303-L.jpg

 

Now for the fun part!


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#9 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2014 - 07:18 PM

I parked the JD for one last time with the kohler in it and took a good 20 min or so to get that gassy engine out.  It was a great engine, fun to rebuild, but it seemed to take 5 gals rather quickly.

 

So here are some shots of the k532 next to the Mitsubishi for size comparisons.  From the looks of the pictures, I should have plenty of room, well I hope

Front top side

IMG_6314-L.jpg

 

Side by side, roughly lined up with the front PTO shafts

IMG_6315-L.jpg

 

Back view

IMG_6316-L.jpg

 

One more front view

IMG_6320-L.jpg

 

 

The one thing that will be a head scratcher will be the oil pan for the L3E.  As it sits on the dolley, the pan sits below the carpet area by 3" or so.  Im planning on using the exisiting engine mounts for easy install, and being able to mount the side panels to keep a stock look.  So, im not sure where I can make that depth up at?  Do i just raise it up, find a new pan thatwould fit with a shallower pan or cut out an area in the chassie?

IMG_6313-L.jpg


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#10 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2014 - 11:11 PM

Well, Ryan, you're certainly not letting any grass grow under your feet on this deal!!  The pictures are great, and it looks like the parts we machined will work well too... time will tell as you continue to work on it.

 

On another note, the 3pt mower, Gannon convertible box scraper, and log splitter for my 'Bota 7100 should arrive tomorrow (hopefully). 

 

The guy was going to hold it until next paycheck (Aug 7th) as I've sunk a lot of money into my tractor and trailer, but he wanted me to get it earlier, so Marilyn and I scraped up money wherever we could--dug through couches, broke our piggy banks (not really), emptied the Christmas fund and even had to borrow $100 from my oldest son to get the $1,100 together.  It's been a long series of stops and starts... I hope it's finally a go.

 

Smitty


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#11 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted July 30, 2014 - 11:13 PM

I parked the JD for one last time with the kohler in it and took a good 20 min or so to get that gassy engine out.  It was a great engine, fun to rebuild, but it seemed to take 5 gals rather quickly.

 

So here are some shots of the k532 next to the Mitsubishi for size comparisons.  From the looks of the pictures, I should have plenty of room, well I hope

Front top side

IMG_6314-L.jpg

 

Side by side, roughly lined up with the front PTO shafts

IMG_6315-L.jpg

 

Back view

IMG_6316-L.jpg

 

One more front view

IMG_6320-L.jpg

 

 

The one thing that will be a head scratcher will be the oil pan for the L3E.  As it sits on the dolley, the pan sits below the carpet area by 3" or so.  Im planning on using the exisiting engine mounts for easy install, and being able to mount the side panels to keep a stock look.  So, im not sure where I can make that depth up at?  Do i just raise it up, find a new pan thatwould fit with a shallower pan or cut out an area in the chassie?

IMG_6313-L.jpg

It's a tough decision knowing what to do in this case--you want as much oil capacity as possible as it helps to cool the engine as well as provide lube.  Can you weld up a custom pan for the engine that will allow you to keep the frame member?  If not, you may have to cut it, but not all the way through vertically, then reinforce it along the cut, etc.

 

If you're going to be home Friday I'll drop by.

 

FWIW,

 

Smitty


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#12 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2014 - 12:30 AM

It's a tough decision knowing what to do in this case--you want as much oil capacity as possible as it helps to cool the engine as well as provide lube.  Can you weld up a custom pan for the engine that will allow you to keep the frame member?  If not, you may have to cut it, but not all the way through vertically, then reinforce it along the cut, etc.
 
If you're going to be home Friday I'll drop by.
 
FWIW,
 
Smitty



I will keep that in mind. I'm going to odd a rough set in Thursday morn. I have a back to back shift on Friday, 20 hrs, but will be around on sat.

#13 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2014 - 01:10 PM

Having been in your shoes several times I've opted to go with engine needs over appearance. It can look like l a million bucks but if it can't be serviced and maintained or it over heats you've really gained nothing.  I have left all the side panels off of mine because they were built to work and I want to be able to check all the fluids and clean the radiator easily. After 31 years as a plant engineer it seems like things that are covered up or out of sight get neglected. 

On the other hand your project need not look cobbled together either. One thing to keep in mind is adequate air flow for cooling. On hot humid days it takes a lot of air moving  through the radiator to cool the engine. Not only does the air need an unrestricted path to the radiator, it needs to leave the engine compartment just as easily. 

Thanks for posting your project and it will be fun watching your progress. Brings back a lot of memories.


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#14 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2014 - 04:48 PM

Having been in your shoes several times I've opted to go with engine needs over appearance. It can look like l a million bucks but if it can't be serviced and maintained or it over heats you've really gained nothing.  I have left all the side panels off of mine because they were built to work and I want to be able to check all the fluids and clean the radiator easily. After 31 years as a plant engineer it seems like things that are covered up or out of sight get neglected. 

On the other hand your project need not look cobbled together either. One thing to keep in mind is adequate air flow for cooling. On hot humid days it takes a lot of air moving  through the radiator to cool the engine. Not only does the air need an unrestricted path to the radiator, it needs to leave the engine compartment just as easily. 

Thanks for posting your project and it will be fun watching your progress. Brings back a lot of memories.

 

 

Im glad that im bringing back memories :rolling:   But im hoping that the ones I will be making will be good. 

 

Got to work on the patient today, as was able to place the engine roughly into its new home.  Seems to fit well, I had to cut the the tabs that help secure the battery box, side panels and pto cable setup.... nothing much :wallbanging:   I had to in order to get the alt to spin without potential hazards.

Before fit, you can see the issue.

IMG_6323-L.jpg

 

cut

IMG_6329-M.jpg

 

Sorry, side panels are a little off, had to bend them to get the old cooling coil out.

IMG_6341-L.jpg



#15 Pager450n OFFLINE  

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Posted July 31, 2014 - 05:09 PM

Im toying with the idea of using the old motor mounts for the k532, but I had to cut the front ones out so I could get the the lower radiator port through without hindering the PTO pulley.

IMG_6342-L.jpg

 

I now have an issue with the radiator inlet/outlet on the bottom.  I need to move it over to the far side so it will clear the pulley.  Can this be done?  Can you take it to someone and have them cap the existing and put a new hose connection?  If not, Im going to have to searc hfor another radiator. :wallbanging:

 

IMG_6344-L.jpg

 

Im also considering a possibility of using a pulley driven fan for the radiator.  I need to find one that is a little smaller than the existing 8 blade.  Reason being is that when the radiator is placed up to its proposed spot, the elec motor and its housing run into the pto shaft.  Now I can make a shroud  that will bring in plenty of air since it will be driven by the motor, but it will be smaller due to the height of the pto.  Thats if I dont set up a small pulley with pillow blocks to hold it up 3 inches.  (need a head scratching icon !)

 

 

IMG_6344-L.jpg






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