Look What I Drug Home
Posted June 07, 2014 - 07:50 AM
Most will call it a Model "L" Gravely
A more specific identification is Model C-8 built between 1967 and 1976. "C" is for convertible meaning you can mount a riding sulky to "convert" it to a riding tractor and "8" is for 8 speeds. 4 going forward and 4 going backwards. The horsepower is rated at 7.6 but that is at the PTO after power is run through the tranny.
- Alc and sacsr have said thanks
Posted June 07, 2014 - 09:23 AM
I too would have said GRAVELY, but I have no idea of the different models.
Posted June 07, 2014 - 11:54 AM
Posted June 07, 2014 - 12:42 PM
BTW, thanks for rescuing it!
Posted June 07, 2014 - 04:27 PM
If you've never been around a Gravely before you are in for a real treat!
I'd be willing to bet that with a cleaning of the points and some fresh gas you'll be up and running.
Starting in 1967 you could get the Gravely engine - like you have there - or a Kohler. Since you have the Gravely engine, the engine and transmission share oil. The dipstick is clearly visible beside the oil pressure gauge under the hood. To drain the oil you remove the lowest bolt on the axle housing where it [axle housing] bolts to the tranny. There should be a plastic tab under the bolt head but it could be missing. The oil filter is a common Fram [brand] PH-16 and will be in stock at Wal-Mart or local auto parts store.
On the right handlebar is the tranny controls. The closest lever to the operator and mounted outside the handlebar is the forward-neutral-reverse. Pulling back is reverse and it won't lock in reverse as a safety precaution so you don't back over yourself. Forward position locks "over center" so you don't have to hold it while running the tractor. You can flop this lever back and forth while running and there is no grinding - no damage. It kind of feels like a hydrostat with instant reverse.
The second lever from the operator and mounted inside the handlebar is the hi/lo gear selector. This lever can be changed on the move. There will be no grinding. This speed change does also change the PTO speed so in low side you will notice the implement speed is also slower. When engaging the PTO it is helpful to place this lever in the middle [somewhat of a neutral] to minimize gear clash and grinding. The PTO will still grind and be somewhat difficult to engage. The PTO is engaged by pulling the curled end rod on the left handlebar.
The third lever mounted under the handlebar, half way down, is the hi/lo axle. The tractor should be stopped to change gears here to prevent damage. While you can change gears while moving with this lever it is detrimental to some expensive gears. Short term you can get by with it but don't do it. If you are having difficulty grabbing the other gear here you can slightly rock the F/N/R lever to get the gears to line up for engagement. While you are going over the tractor you might jack it up and try to wiggle the right side tires. If the right side wheel/hub assembly moves in the axle housing it could be a sign of trouble such as the previous owner shifted the axle on the move. My #1 using Gravely is very lose here and has been for all the 15 years I've owned it but hasn't given any trouble and doesn't leak oil so I just keep using it. I have several parts tractors if things get ugly so I don't worry about it.
The implements are not what I'd call quick change but they aren't too bad to change. I see you have the kickstand on the left rear of the tractor. Lower this and re-tighten its clamp. This holds the tractor from falling backwards with no implement attached. Remove the 4 bolts [3/4" wrench] and the implement comes right off. Don't run the tractor without an implement attached or tilt the tractor forward as you will lose your engine oil. Hopefully you can save the gasket at this joint but if not they are readily avalible from a Gravely dealer or local mower shop. You can also make gaskets from old cerial boxes. If you must utilize a new gasket, silicone it to the tractor side only. That way one gasket will last for many implement changes. Its a good idea to place a large Ziploc bag over the PTO slip clutch and over the mounting flange to keep dirt off the slip clutch just as soon as an implement is removed. Remember, any dirt that accumilates on there will be put inside the crankcase the next time that implement is installed.
I see your tractor is manual start and has no governor. That is pretty common. Electric start and governors were optional and are easily retrofitted if you desire. It takes a pretty good horse to roll those Gravely engines over. Originally there was a leather strap that came with the tractor but a heavy rope will work. Make sure you have a good size and sturdy handle on your rope. The handle will need to be at least as wide and your hand and not just held by two fingers. I roll my engine over to the start of the compression stroke and then wrap the rope. That way I go over compression right at the first of the pull and the engine doesn't stop rotating half way through the "yank". Be a good idea to check the impulse of the mag to make sure its working before yanking on the rope. Listen for a "click" from the mag as you roll the engine over by hand. If your impulse is not working I wouldn't try to start the thing until it is. Not sure what your mechanical abilities/knowlege/experience is so if you aren't sure what the impulse is or how it works just ask.
Helping others is what GTTalk is here for.
The mower shown in your picture is the 30 inch brush cutter. It will cut just about anything you can roll over. it will also work fine for yard mowing - they do a nice job.
If your sickle mower has 3 inch sections it is designed for rough cutting such as fields, roadbanks, etc. If the sickle has 2 inch sections it is for yard mowing or "finish cut".
I can see the serial number tag on your tractor in the first picture. It is down low just behind where you separate the implement from the tractor on the left side. Take that number and check it here to find out the exact year of your tractor.
Best of Luck with your new machine.
Edited by Gtractor, June 07, 2014 - 04:40 PM.
- JDBrian and diesel nut have said thanks
Posted June 08, 2014 - 09:11 AM
This is the sickle. The bar is unbolted from the head, but all the pieces are free and it looks complete, so I just need to pick up some bolts.
I put in some gas, wound up the rope, and it started on the first pull. It runs like a champ! To celebrate, I picked up a sulky I saw on Craigslist for $50.
The threaded end of the ball joint is a little too large to fit into the hole in the tractor, but I'll figure something out.
I looked, and the serial number says it's a 72. My only question is, I don't see the third lever for the axle hi/low. Was this an option that I don't have, or am I missing something?
- Gtractor said thank you
Posted June 08, 2014 - 12:57 PM
Hmmm, Now that i look at your pictures a little closer I don't see the third shift lever. Maybe the "Swiftmatic" axle was an option? I thought all tractors had that after about 1967.
There is supposed to be a trailer-hitch-ball looking thingy on your tractors drawbar for the sulky to attach to. I believe the ball mounts under the tractors drawbar -or upside down.
Your sickle looks to be the finish cut unit with 2 inch sections.
Congratulations on it running - thats great!!!