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Waterloo 20 Restoration

waterloo walk behind

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#106 LilysDad ONLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2014 - 07:19 AM

Two steps forward. One step backward.  I got the gas tank on and the fuel line run, but then I got ambushed by a leaking carb.

 

attachicon.gifDSCF7685.JPG

Is that little fuel filter original or did you buy it?


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#107 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2014 - 06:57 PM

Is that little fuel filter original or did you buy it?

I bought a new one.  Mine had just the shut off valve & 4" of fuel line.  I turned the tank 180 degrees and added the fuel line.  It still isn't quite right, but it is better than what was there.

 

model 20 engine.jpg


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#108 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2014 - 07:12 PM

Mark, are you sticking with the Briggs muffler or do you have plans on changing it out when the right one found ?



#109 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2014 - 08:39 PM

I bought a new one.  Mine had just the shut off valve & 4" of fuel line.  I turned the tank 180 degrees and added the fuel line.  It still isn't quite right, but it is better than what was there.

 

attachicon.gifmodel 20 engine.jpg

 

Where did you get it? Are you happy with it?

I bought one from Stens, for my Gibson. It seals, when I shut

it off, but seeps a bit when open.


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#110 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2014 - 08:43 PM

Mark, are you sticking with the Briggs muffler or do you have plans on changing it out when the right one found ?

If I can find an OEM muffler at a reasonable price, I will replace it.  Eventually, I hope to replace the entire engine for the proper one.  Until then, this muffler & this engine will have to do.


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#111 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2014 - 08:44 PM

Where did you get it? Are you happy with it?

I bought one from Stens, for my Gibson. It seals, when I shut

it off, but seeps a bit when open.

I will send you a PM with the details.


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#112 DougT ONLINE  

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Posted July 23, 2014 - 10:55 PM

Where did you get it? Are you happy with it?

I bought one from Stens, for my Gibson. It seals, when I shut

it off, but seeps a bit when open.

Does it seep around the needle valve stem? i've had better luck pitching the O ring inside the packing nut and replacing it with a strand of graphite impregnated rope like they used to use in the packing.


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#113 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2014 - 04:53 AM

Does it seep around the needle valve stem? i've had better luck pitching the O ring inside the packing nut and replacing it with a strand of graphite impregnated rope like they used to use in the packing.

:ditto:


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#114 IamSherwood OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2014 - 05:37 AM

Does it seep around the needle valve stem? i've had better luck pitching the O ring inside the packing nut and replacing it with a strand of graphite impregnated rope like they used to use in the packing.

 

Yes, that's where it seeps. I'll give that a try. Thanks


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#115 Mike Unwin OFFLINE  

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Posted July 24, 2014 - 08:32 PM

Will,   CTC has in the plumbing section white string for fixing taps,it seems to work alright with fuel. As for teflon tape white for water, yellow for gas and oil.


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#116 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted July 25, 2014 - 08:18 PM

The carb has stopped leaking, so I ran the engine today.  I noticed I have two oil leaks: one from the PTO side oil seal, the second from what I think is the governor yoke retaining pin.  

 

QUESTIONS:

 

1)  Can I remove the PTO oil seal without dismantling the engine?

2)  How do I stop the leak at the pin?

 

10.jpg

 


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#117 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted July 26, 2014 - 06:29 AM

The pto seal does not require dissasembly, you should be able to pry it out with two flat head screwdriver, the seal sits in a lip on the inside, the new one carefully pressed in with i think a 1 1/2 section of water pipe or something of the likes until the inner lip on the seal is tight against the inner lip.

 

The camshaft axle you have the second arrow pointing at has no seal, never had one, the tightness of the camshaft's axle against the block is the seal, i recall there being a bronze thrust washer between the gov assy and the retainer pin holding the camshaft's axle in the block, it may be slightly worn a little out of tolerance so the camshaft axle may have a little side play, using a blunt pin driver or slightly smaller rod lightly tap the pin from the flywheel side over to the pto side driving the pin tight against the washer and block.

Sometimes this works but removal of the cooling shroud and flywheel will be needed.

 

A easier way would be to clean around the pin were it is leaking and put a small bead of gasket goop, blue locktight or wood stove gasket goop for holding in the fiberglass rope gasket and repaint, the pin does not spin so no probs there.

 

The B-1102 has no real head gasket, was not available 15 years ago (man time flys huh!) so i used the stove gasket holder goop, slightly higher compression then normal but i used her like so for several years before retiring it to engine shows, the camshaft axle was leaking also like your and i used blue locktight as a sealer, i am sure red locktight would be fine also.

 

Before i forget again here is the manual for a B-700 showing the camshaft axle, it does not show a bronze thrust washer but i do recall there being one in there, i might be thinking of the later B-1200 series : http://www.rucenterp..._parts_list.pdf


Edited by trowel, July 26, 2014 - 06:34 AM.

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#118 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted July 27, 2014 - 03:25 PM

Work has slowed to a crawl.  The last 10% always seems to take the longest.  Maybe because I need parts I haven't been able to find yet.  

 

Anyway, I installed the stop button I made yesterday.  In true stubborn fashion, the tractor tried to reject it. The spring mechanism is almost too long to fit.  The screw on the bottom of the button will be connected to the kill wire & needs to contact the handlebar to short out the spark.  The back washer touches the rough weld for the crossbar, so the screw only makes intermittent contact.

 

DSCF7864.JPG

 

Now, if only I could find an 8" and a 9" pulley with the correct axle patterns and a 5/8" bore, or maybe an air filter system, or maybe the measurements for the belt guides.

 

antique tractor 2 011.JPG antique tractor 2 012.JPG

 

air filter 1.jpg air filter 2.jpg air filter 3.jpg

 

antique tractor 2 010.JPG antique tractor 2 014.JPG

 


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#119 trowel OFFLINE  

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Posted July 28, 2014 - 04:44 AM

The stop switch came out looking like the original Mark, hard to follow the original as best an one can, turns into a trail and error until it is right.

 

The updraft air cleaner is a hard one to find but not impossible, Clinton and Lauson used the same filter element canister that is different from what Wisconsin, Briggs and Kohler used so the air cleaner or oil cup as some of us call it is a little different internally but the oil cups assy will fit if other engines it was attached to a Carter N # 26 with that air horn or Tilly ML and ML with it's air horn.

 

The plastic Saf-T-Vue oil cups i want to cast for guys like you, Ben, and many others, i just have not had the time or money to set myself up to do it yet. The originals are very hard to find in good shape, the one you had was in chunks which is usually how they are found.

 

Both are made by Eaton Stamping Co and cost more then the engine and tractor itself, the ones for early K-90 Kohlers are equally as expensive and hard to find, Lauson,....same as Clinton.

 

So,...i converted a metal one from a briggs into a updraft once, not hard to do. The filter element is to be removed from the top, then a hole drilled to the same ID bore of the carb air horn, as for the oil cup, i used a thin fender washer with the right bore for the rod that holds everything together and ground it down to fit snug on the lip of the oil cup's air horn seat, after a good cleaning and roughing up i used some JB weld to attach the fender washer to the oil cup, clean up, paint and assemble it looks just about like the original, the top will not be right but from afar it passes.

 

If you want to try this to finish this tractor until the right one comes up, i can send you the right size Eaton Stamping co oil bath air cleaner, it will be for a Briggs though.

 

The belt guilds is something i have not seen before, Simplicity and Springfield used different ones, you may have to work off the pictures you found, i wish i could make it easier for you but the details i know about Waterloos now is because of what you have taught me.


Edited by trowel, July 28, 2014 - 04:48 AM.

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#120 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted August 04, 2014 - 03:55 PM

Keep moving forward.  Small steps.  One after the other.  You can't take two at once.  That's what I keep telling myself.  Fortunately, that is all that is left.  Small steps.

 

 

I have been struggling to find time, and parts, to work on the restoration.  Life keeps getting in the way.  Wife wanted a 3rd tractor, this one for a chicken & its chicks.  Then she wanted wheels on the other two.  Then we needed to build a hallway between our two chicken coups.  We also had to get the winter wood in the woodshed out of the constant rain, so it stands a chance of drying out before winter.  I also needed to build a small box to put my water pump in so I don't have to keep connecting & disconnecting it every time it gets used.  Oh, and the herb bed needed to get weeded.

 

DSCF7970.JPG DSCF7971.JPG DSCF7969.JPG DSCF7975.JPG DSCF7976.JPG DSCF7977.JPG DSCF7978.JPG DSCF7990.JPG DSCF7968.JPG DSCF7967.JPG DSCF7972.JPG

 

That said, I did manage to get the engine carrier & engine repainted.  Before repainting the engine, I replaced the PTO oil seal & rubbed gasket goop into the Yoke Pin holes, front & back.  Went I took the bearing plate off, I found it was full of oil.  It had not sealed properly to the block, so it got a thin coat of gasket goop as well.  

 

I also had to re-clean the carb.  It would only run with full choke.  Anyone want to guess what I found in the high-speed jet?  Yup, baking soda.  I forgot to give it a vinegar wash when I was done soda blasting.  Now it runs like new-ish, which surprises me, given that I am using a Briggs condenser.  I also had to clean the chunks out of the sediment bowl.  Guess the tank should get lined, but that isn't OEM.  Once I had the sediment bowl apart, I realized the fuel shut off wasn't working, so I had to swap it out.  Once that was done, I couldn't get the bowl to re-seat & hole gas.  Turned out the o-rings are both to large.  The expanded when the gas hit them.  I made a new one out of cork.  May regret that.

 

DSCF7966.JPG DSCF7598.JPG DSCF7983.JPG DSCF7984.JPG DSCF7985.JPG DSCF7986.JPG DSCF7987.JPG DSCF7988.JPG DSCF7989.JPG

 

Anyway, I still need to find:

 

1)  8" pulley, 5/8" bore, made by Congress Drives.

2)  9" pulley, 5/8" bore, made by Congress Drives.

3)  4" pulley, 5/8" bore, made by Congress Drives.

4)  Yellow hand grips.

5)  A way to join the kill wire from the engine & button

6)  The dimensions for the belt guides.

7)  Air cleaner assembly.

8)  A 4L430 belt.

9)  Cable clamps for the throttle cable.

10) etc...


Edited by New.Canadian.DB.Owner, August 04, 2014 - 03:56 PM.

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