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Tra-12D Valve Adjustment


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#1 duct tape OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2014 - 06:43 PM

Hey, every one just drug home a 1225, and got the engine put on., guy I bought from said starter motor had a hard time turning engine over, turns out the exhaust valve has a gap over 25 tho, not 15. Besides tearing engine down and finding new valve to grind like the book says, has anyone found a way to put a spacer in place? Or any other way. I don't know if or how well the engine runs, would like to know that before tearing apart. To fix one valve. I'm not sure if I want to rebuild now or replace with a Kholer I have.

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#2 Bolens 1000 OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2014 - 07:18 PM

Welcome to GTT :wave:

Once a valve is ground down too far there's no turning back. Parts are still available for these Wisconsins.

Pull the head and see how things look inside and go from there.


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#3 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2014 - 08:26 PM

If the valve is good except for the clearance, the valve seat in the block can be ground, which will close the gap at the stem.

 

This requires the use of a valve seat grinder.  .....The cost to have the seat ground may or may not exceed the cost of a new valve.

 

If you were nearby, I would grind it for you (for free.)


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#4 New.Canadian.DB.Owner OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2014 - 08:27 PM

Re-check the manual.  I got burned on an ABN by the clause "but before the springs are reassembled".  In other words, the clearance is measured without the springs installed, at least for an ABN.  May be the reverse for a TRA-12D.


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#5 duct tape OFFLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2014 - 10:43 AM

Couldnt sleep last night, had a couple ideas, and a great idea at work today will post pics of what I'm going to do tonight. Hopefully it will get me by

#6 duct tape OFFLINE  

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Posted June 02, 2014 - 06:32 PM

Here's what I came up with. I cut the end off a lug nut, and ground down the top untill I had 14 thou clearance. Now exhaust valve decompressed as it should. Just a temporary fix, but it got the engine running, with some power from the 1050. Has some knocks but now I can see if the hydro works.

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#7 wjcarpe OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2014 - 10:12 PM

now that is what I call ingenuity !



#8 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2014 - 05:33 AM

This is going to be a general small engine question but is it common for the valves to gain clearance like that ? 



#9 Bruce Dorsi ONLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2014 - 09:01 AM

This is going to be a general small engine question but is it common for the valves to gain clearance like that ? 

 

No, Al, it's not.

 

The most frequent (and most likely) cause is from grinding too much off the valve stem when installing a new valve.  .....Sometimes this happens because the clearance is set while the lifter is on the compression release.  (On many B&S engines, the compression release is ground into the cam profile.)  ....Most often, it is over-zealous grinding against a grinding wheel. .....Small amounts can be removed with a file.

 

One small point worth mentioning is that it is important that the stem of the valve is ground squarely (perpendicular to the length of the stem.)  .....This is important to obtain/preserve proper clearance.

 

The fool-proof way to set valves is to set the intake valve while the exhaust valve is fully raised, and set the exhaust valve while the intake valve is fully raised.

 

Possible ways the clearance could increase is if the cam lobe wears, the lifter wears, the valve stem wears, or the valve seat raises in the block.  ....Of these possibilities, the only one I ever witnessed was loose valve seats on aluminum-block engines.


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#10 framesteer OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2014 - 11:09 AM

I've never had it done, but couldn't you have an expert welder add some material to the end of the stem?  The welding rod/wire material would be important so that it wouldn't wear down prematurely, and the penetration of the weld would also be important so that it wouldn't break off.  Might be worth a try.



#11 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2014 - 04:45 PM

I have welded to the end of valve stems myself, and it holds up just fine.  But motorcycle engines use "shim buckets", much like the end of the lug nut you used, and they of course work great.  The main difference is the hardness, and eventually the lugnut will wear down.  But it serves your purpose well!  :thumbs:



#12 duct tape OFFLINE  

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Posted June 10, 2014 - 08:29 PM

What make of bike uses shim bucket" I'd rather put one in that take apart to replace valve. I have a bad habit of temporary fixes becoming permanent. It runs way better than I thought it would when doing this, so I don't need to rebuild engine right away. I'd like to get thru summer and winter before I do anything major. I got this so cheap I just assumed the engine was bad, and I'm sure the guy I bought it from did as well.

Edited by duct tape, June 10, 2014 - 08:31 PM.


#13 olcowhand OFFLINE  

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Posted June 12, 2014 - 07:32 AM

What make of bike uses shim bucket" I'd rather put one in that take apart to replace valve.  

 

It's been 20 years since I did cycle repair on the side, so I've forgotten which use it, but MOST do these days, including ATV's.

 

HERE is a link to "valve shim buckets" on ebay.  You would have to find a cooperative seller willing to measure the inside diameter to find a bucket to fit your valve.  Might be hard to get them to help.  If it were me, I'd replace the valve instead.  Now if you know someone who messes with bikes......


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