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ABS or Plastic welding.


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#16 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted August 26, 2012 - 02:39 PM

I thought I would update this thread since the subject was brought back up recently. The girls wagon is still going strong after almost 2 years of use after the repairs were made.

I have also welded several bezels for JD's back together and have had good luck with them. I will try to post some photos later of the repairs.
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#17 JRJ OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2013 - 12:41 PM

Watched the video and found it very informative. I presently do not have anything plastic that is broken or cracked. I think the secret to it is to get the correct filler rod for the job along with the correct heat.

 

Dick


Edited by JRJ, February 11, 2013 - 04:09 PM.


#18 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 11, 2013 - 02:27 PM

Watched the video and found and found it very informative. I presently do not have anything plastic that is brokene or crached. I think the secret to it is to get the correct filler rod for the job along with the correct heat.

 

Dick

 

Dick, I use the plastic from a similar piece I have that's really broken up beyond repair.



#19 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted February 13, 2013 - 04:40 PM

I am about to find out.  Another project I find myself neck deep on is my pop up camper. I have an Apache which instead of canvas has ABS panels for the slide outs. I know you have to keep "like with like" material  and filler rod, I bought a Seelye hot air welder from Ebay and am gonna be using it soon to try and fix a bad corner on one of my camper's end panels; 

Apache's "factory authorized" way to repair is to mix ABS pellets or filings withj ABS and make a paste "goo"; the ABS dissolves ABS and when you apply the goo the ABS in teh goo chemically softens the parent material so that it does chemically bond;  I have seen on teh Apache forums where people use fiberglass cloth (or is it the "mat" they are specific about using one and NOT the other) but NOT teh fiberglass resin, instead use this ABS goo to saturate the fiberglass cloth and penetrate into the parent ABS and also to layer the goo (apply in a couple steps) enough to come "level" with the top of the cloth.

I have some 12X12 ABS squares  bought from another Ebay person to use as my repair material. 

In my case I want to weld a stiffener onto the back to bridge the cracks and then try and mix some goo on the showey" side, kind of how you'd use "glazing" or "spot" putty with Bondo in fixing a car.

 

there are charts that help ID your type of plastic this definitely is important.


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#20 Tankman OFFLINE  

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Posted February 14, 2013 - 05:27 PM

I've used a soldering gun many times to "weld" plastic.

 

Worked great. Better yet, I already had the soldering gun.  :thumbs:


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#21 Tennblue59 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2013 - 07:05 PM

I have had 2 of the Harbor Freight soldering iron style platic welders. On both of them, the tip broke after a couple uses. The tip screws into the heating element/body of the gun. Both sheared off at the top thread. As the gun heats up, the tip shaft softens and begins to bend (without applying much force against the work - not being heavy handed...) - then cracks and breaks after a while.

 

They replaced the first one, I just drilled and retapped (bigger shaft and more robust tip) the second, and have been using it for about 6 months that way....

 

Welding things like a Deere hood plastic, works well. Not too difficult to get a good bond, but it is hard to make it look good as new. I ended up using an epoxy filler then grinding it flush, then prime and paint and you can't tell after all that.

 

On thicker plastics, I can do ok, but havent mastered thin stuff yet.....


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#22 dodge trucker OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2013 - 10:34 PM

I have yet to try my hot air welder yet I do have my camper home now though


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#23 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted February 17, 2013 - 10:54 PM

I have had 2 of the Harbor Freight soldering iron style platic welders. On both of them, the tip broke after a couple uses. The tip screws into the heating element/body of the gun. Both sheared off at the top thread. As the gun heats up, the tip shaft softens and begins to bend (without applying much force against the work - not being heavy handed...) - then cracks and breaks after a while.

 

They replaced the first one, I just drilled and retapped (bigger shaft and more robust tip) the second, and have been using it for about 6 months that way....

 

Welding things like a Deere hood plastic, works well. Not too difficult to get a good bond, but it is hard to make it look good as new. I ended up using an epoxy filler then grinding it flush, then prime and paint and you can't tell after all that.

 

On thicker plastics, I can do ok, but havent mastered thin stuff yet.....

 

Post some pictures of your work if you can.






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