Thanks everybody for your input.
I'm definitely going to have to re-position the steering wheel to center. I'll of course drive it first for a while before I do that.
Initially I didn't want to touch the tractor just to make sure there would be no problem returning it. The one I got now I'm going to start up today.
As you guys mentioned, I guess there is some noticeable built in toe-in. I think because this is a tight turn model (6" i think) it's probably toed-in more?
Oh, and how I got them to send another real quick? I had them deal with my mom's wrath. lol.... I think she has Sears wrapped around her finger.
Interestingly enough, this is actually the 3rd tractor I attempted to purchase. The first was a lower model on sale just before past winter. When they were delivering that one the steering wheel snapped because of the way they were unloading it. Pretty much the entire tractor was hanging from the steering wheel. It was stuck on wood framed container. Even though I wanted it returned they actually sent a repair guy out either the next day or day after. I still had it returned thinking about what other damage could have been caused. Seemed it would take a lot of force to snap that steering wheel.
For this new tractor they told me no more repair guy visit to fix the alignment. Appears they stopped home visits. Might have something to do with Sears slowly shutting down in Canada? Anyhow, thank you Sears for sending me another tractor.
And thanks again guys for your input!
Oh....I should probably do a search first or make a new post?... But while your here, thoughts on if I should and HOW it's best to change the regular blades to the mulch ones that came with the tractor. I've always used mulch blades on the regular old lawn mower. Just tip the tractor over on its side?
AND, do I need supreme/high octane gas? Neighbour said there's less or no ethanol in it so it's better for these engines.