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1225 Restoration Beginning

1225 differential snow blower restoration wiring carburetor

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25 replies to this topic

#1 wjcarpe OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 04:51 PM

Greetings from Maryland.  My step-father gave me this 1225 a few years back and i cobbled it together enough to have a snow blower for the past 3 years (no snow the first 2 years and then wham! this year).  It saved me enough shoveling that I figured it deserved some TLC.  This will be a very amateur attempt at restoration as I've never done anything like this before, so I will appreciate any and all assistance.

 

Everything appears to be original including the Wisconsin 12HP engine.  The only thing that isn't is the fabricated bracket that attaches the snowblower (hence the chain that you see in the picture that serves as connection between hydraulic piston and blower).  So first things first - anyone know where I can get such a bracket ?

 

Plan is to replace all wiring - already had issues with 45 year wires becoming brittle.  Also the choke cable is broken, not that i use it anyway as it does typically require a little squirt of starting fluid/ether to get moving (especially in the winter).

 

I've replaced all belts already and have to put two new rear tires - the old ones finally succumbed to dry rot.

 

One question that I've researched all over the forums and internet is how to get the screw in "posi-trac" rear differential to work.  I screwed it in but still only the right rear wheel powers, dis-assembled the left rear hub but nothing looks out of whack - key is still in tact.  I've read some posts about a rear-axle end play adjustment but I'm not sure if that is for the hydrostats like the 1225.  Would be great if anyone has advice on that one.

 

Lastly, also appears to have a leak around the carburetor so need to figure that one out as well.

 

Thanks for any advice in advance - I'll post photos as i go along.

 

First one from last fall and the second just after some snow blowing2.JPG 733810_463010857085837_68878850_n.jpg

 

 


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#2 HDWildBill OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 05:01 PM

Welcome to GTtalk.  This should be an interesting thread as you do your restoration.  I'm sure the Bolens guys will be able to help you out.


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#3 Kfs35 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 06:50 PM

Looks like a nice solid tractor to start with. Have fun fixing her up, and post plenty of pics.

Oh yeah, Welcome!

Edited by Kfs35, May 27, 2014 - 06:51 PM.

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#4 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 08:22 PM

Welcome to GTT. Oh, you are going to have fun. Bolens GT's are an addiction.



#5 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 08:32 PM

The first thing I can help with is locating the carb leak. Get some WD-40 and little at a time spray areas of the carb. When you hear a change in the engine you have found a leak. You may find more than one,, too. Hit every screw, adjustment, gasket areas, butterfly end caps ...

 

I'll look into the posi rear deal in the manuals to see what may be up with yours.

 

Good luck.



#6 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 09:09 PM

1225 ........... Model 10 Eaton hydrostatic w/transaxle & controlled differential; infinite speed range forward & reverse.

 

You have the locking nut cap for posi traction so you should adjust the end play every 50 hrs or less if used more frequently.



#7 Gabriel OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 09:11 PM

WELCOME! Nice Bolens!


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#8 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 09:15 PM

REAR AXLE END PLAY
The rear axle may develop end play which should be
corrected. Check approximately every 50 hours of
operation and adjust if necessary.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE FOR REAR AXLE END
PLAY
With both rear wheels off the ground:
1. Remove cotter pin and loosen R.H. castellated
nut several turns.

2. Remove cotter pin from L.H. castle nut (under
posi-traction hand wheel), and turn castle nut hand
tight. Temporarily install cotter pin and turn wheels
- --------------- -------------,
to determine if differential gears are binding. Con- :--...
tinue this L.H. procedure until a slight binding is detected.
At this point back off castle nut to first
cotter pin hole and lock castle nut permanently with
cotter key. IMPORTANT: This L.H. adjustment
must be performed first.
3. Then proceed with R.H. castle nut adjustment, to
eliminate all end-play. Recheck for excessive binding
before locking R.H. castle nut with cotter pin.
NOTE
When making this axle end play adjustment,
DO NOT USE A WRENCH.


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#9 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2014 - 06:22 AM

Looking forward to seeing your restoration. Thanks for posting.


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#10 sodisr OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2014 - 10:51 AM

REAR AXLE END PLAY
The rear axle may develop end play which should be
corrected. Check approximately every 50 hours of
operation and adjust if necessary.
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE FOR REAR AXLE END
PLAY
With both rear wheels off the ground:
1. Remove cotter pin and loosen R.H. castellated
nut several turns.

2. Remove cotter pin from L.H. castle nut (under
posi-traction hand wheel), and turn castle nut hand
tight. Temporarily install cotter pin and turn wheels
- --------------- -------------,
to determine if differential gears are binding. Con- :--...
tinue this L.H. procedure until a slight binding is detected.
At this point back off castle nut to first
cotter pin hole and lock castle nut permanently with
cotter key. IMPORTANT: This L.H. adjustment
must be performed first.
3. Then proceed with R.H. castle nut adjustment, to
eliminate all end-play. Recheck for excessive binding
before locking R.H. castle nut with cotter pin.
NOTE
When making this axle end play adjustment,
DO NOT USE A WRENCH.

 

My Bolens....  I went to check into that when I first got my 1556.. Reading into the manual,, I thought that adjustment was just for gear driven tractors....  The HYDROS need not be adjusted....  Correct me if I'm wrong...



#11 MyBolens1053 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2014 - 03:57 PM

Not sure if it applies to hydro. All I know is that I have seen this in the owner's manuals of a few tube frames. I saved it as a separate file for ease of finding it.



#12 LPBolens ONLINE  

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Posted May 28, 2014 - 06:10 PM

I have several original Operators Manuals for various gear drive tubeframes and they all show adjusting the rear axle end play every 50 hrs of operation. I also have several original Operators Manuals for various hydrostatic drive tubeframes and NONE of them show adjusting rear axle end play at any time.


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#13 1967bolens collector OFFLINE  

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Posted June 01, 2014 - 05:14 PM

glad to see a 1225 getting a face lift for a change.... i was cultivating with mine todaY


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#14 wjcarpe OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2014 - 09:14 PM

So here's a few shots of the work in progress; again this is my first attempt at trying to do anything like this so I'm sure i'm not going to the extent that true professionals do so maybe it is more of a "refurbish" than a "restoration" but the key is that I want to preserve this fine machine and make it usable for around the house !

 

Two mechanical things that I need help with (or more likely pieces for)

 

1. Bracket to attach snowblower - as you can see from the pictures, I jerry-rigged the snow blower by creating my own "bracket" welding a couple of steel channels together and then using a chain to connect to the hydraulic system.  It's functional, but it sure ain't pretty.  Would like to find the appropriate bracket to connect.

 

2. Not even sure what to call it but it is how the main drive pulley engages.  My step-father (who bought from original owner) crafted a very fine tensioning system that again is functional but I would like to find the original mechanism - would think that it would somehow link to the transmission lever.  Posted a couple of pics of this as I am sure that my description here is just causing confusion.

 

After reading some of the responses to my original post, it seems as though i'm not the only one confused about whether the rear-axle end play applies to the hydrostats.  I'll have to do some more research on this to try to figure out what's up with the posi-trac rear and why it's not engaging properly.  I guess the only true way to test this would be to jack up the back end and hold the right rear tire and see if the left one engages, correct ?

Attached Thumbnails

  • Bolens stripped.JPG
  • main drive pulley.jpg
  • main pulley 2.jpg
  • Snowblower bracket 1.jpg
  • bracket 2.jpg


#15 duct tape OFFLINE  

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Posted June 09, 2014 - 09:20 PM

In your pic of the improvised tensioning system off to the right is a spring laying there with one end throu a cotter key. The othe end should hook to you tensioner pully. That end is problem broke and way it is hooked up, but may have just slipped off. It just loops around the bolt sticking throu the pully.





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: 1225, differential, snow blower, restoration, wiring, carburetor

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