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John Deere 214 No Compression, Possible Exhaust Valve Issue?


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#16 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 05:28 AM

Other than just having a lot of hours(thousands) the thing that I see with a lot of older GTs used for mowing is that the cooling fins and flywheel screen end up plugged with grass and dirt. I think the resulting heat is the ruination of a lot of these Kohlers. As the machine ages people also stop really caring about maintenance and just run the tractor, maybe with low or dirty oil,  because it's not worth anything to them. Then, when it really starts to go to pieces they list it for sale for a ridiculous price and someone like me comes along and buys it for a restoration project and has to deal with all the messes they've left behind.


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#17 Alc ONLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 05:45 AM

Say it was a pita to get the head off , couldn't you put  compressed air into the spark plug hole and rotated the crank to se  if the valves are sealing at some point , blowing out the breather ( broken rings / piston )  wonder how  a broken rod would affect this type of test ?



#18 pigsitter OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 06:15 AM

The last 214 I picked up did the exact same thing,when I pulled the pan off I found the crank end of the connecting rod in 4 pieces! See if the piston moves while turning the engine over first,if it doesn't move you've got internal problems,be prepared to pull the engine as I'm not sure you can get the pan off from underneath,besides that pulling the engine isn't to bad on these tractors.


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#19 rippinryno OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 09:49 AM

Ok i was hoping to keep the engine in there, i noticed when i pulled the valve cover that the head doesn't come off seperately does it?  This motor has the valves and the piston in the same place.  I'm used to atv's with over head cams and valves in the head then a seperate cylinder.  I was not sure if this cylinder/valve assembly would even come off.  I've got the valves out, they seem fine as i mentioned one was turning but nothing is bent or broke.  I was going to get under it tonight and try to pull the oil pan to see what i tlooks like.  I can't turn the motor over right now unless i try to manually move the fly wheel and when i do that the piston does not move at all.  I pushed it down in the cylinder and it won't come back up.



#20 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 10:17 AM

Go ahead & pull the engine.  The road IS broken.  The engine MUST be pulled to rebuild if it is rebuildable at all.  Trying to pull the pan from underneath would be wasted time really...if it can even be done, which if I remember right....it can't.



#21 JDBrian OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 10:25 AM

It's not that hard to remove the engine. Shouldn't take more than 15-20 minutes. They are heavy though at 120+lbs, so a hoist of some kind or a second person helps a lot. The way the frames are built on those JDs there is really no way to access much from the bottom.



#22 rippinryno OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 11:20 AM

ok sounds good, i'm used to pulling 450cc motors out of quad frames that have terrible access so i think i can mage to get this on the bench.  Thanks in advance guys.



#23 rippinryno OFFLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 11:25 AM

the head bolt right by the exhaust also snapped, i knew when i was trying to turn it, it was the onloy one that wouldn't come off real nicely and so i tried an impact but it snapped.  If it get it back to working order i'll drill it out and helicoi, but there's enough bolts i figure that one won't have to be totally torqued



#24 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 27, 2014 - 11:26 AM

All bolts will need the proper torque, but a properly installed heli-coil will handle it with ease anyway.






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