Jump to content

Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Kohler k341 problems


  • Please log in to reply
68 replies to this topic

#16 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

Chuck_050382

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 32
  • 275 Thanks
  • 1,498 posts
  • Location: Mt. Vernon, IL

Posted January 26, 2011 - 08:52 AM

Did you check for water in the fuel, water in the float bowl?
Even 2 or 3 drops is enough to cause problems like this.


Doug I drained the old gas then refilled with gas bought the day before. Then I took apart the carb. All this had no effect on how it started.

#17 massey driver ONLINE  

massey driver

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 75
  • 1,262 Thanks
  • 1,512 posts
  • Location: Mainitoba Canada

Posted January 26, 2011 - 09:40 AM

You know sometime's it's something simple that we tend to overlook.With that being said and reading all what you've done I can say it's got to be a hair puller for sure.Sorry for not really being able to give you any more idea's. I'll be watching to see what you find out,as stuff like this is interesting too me.For a example on my MF 1655 with the Honda 20 hp V-twin it would start up fine about 4 or 5 times then it would take forever the next time pop and backfire then finally start. Checked everything out ,fuel, spark etc: did this for over a year untill finally it wouldn't start. Then I was able to figure it out as it had no spark on one side .Faulty coil on the one side,the worst part was that it was intermitent and when I checked things out everything worked fine. Like I say it's a hair puller for sure.I know you've done lots already and will continue to do so untill you get it solved so ,Good Luck Chuck and hope you don't pull all your hair out before getting to the bottom of the problem.LOL Larry

#18 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 38,491 Thanks
  • 30,611 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted January 26, 2011 - 09:48 AM

I have listened to the video several times, and once the starter is disengaged, it's very easy to hear the compression whooshing through somewhere. When you pull the head, you'll either find a valve problem, or a bad head gasket, but I lean toward valve issue because of the coughing attempt at firing sound in the muffler.
  • Chuck_050382 said thank you

#19 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

Chuck_050382

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 32
  • 275 Thanks
  • 1,498 posts
  • Location: Mt. Vernon, IL

Posted January 26, 2011 - 10:03 AM

You know sometime's it's something simple that we tend to overlook.With that being said and reading all what you've done I can say it's got to be a hair puller for sure.Sorry for not really being able to give you any more idea's. I'll be watching to see what you find out,as stuff like this is interesting too me.For a example on my MF 1655 with the Honda 20 hp V-twin it would start up fine about 4 or 5 times then it would take forever the next time pop and backfire then finally start. Checked everything out ,fuel, spark etc: did this for over a year untill finally it wouldn't start. Then I was able to figure it out as it had no spark on one side .Faulty coil on the one side,the worst part was that it was intermitent and when I checked things out everything worked fine. Like I say it's a hair puller for sure.I know you've done lots already and will continue to do so untill you get it solved so ,Good Luck Chuck and hope you don't pull all your hair out before getting to the bottom of the problem.LOL Larry


Larry I have been pulling my hair out. After trying what I had and talking with Daniel,I had a feeling about the compression , but I think I was trying to deny that since it would be more work than just replacing a faulty condenser or something else easy to fix.

I will be pulling the head soon. This week is busy, dont know if I will make it out until saturday morning.

#20 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,644 Thanks
  • 15,444 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted January 26, 2011 - 10:19 AM

I still think it's a stuck exhaust valve. but thats just me. I had one do the same thing and back fire through the muffler.

#21 bhts OFFLINE  

bhts

    Bob's Lawn and Garden Tractors

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 945
  • 1,454 Thanks
  • 2,153 posts
  • Location: ohio

Posted January 26, 2011 - 11:51 AM

I am going to have to agree with Dan on a valve problem. The fords had a problem with valves on that style tractor.The shields on the motor hold alot of heat in the engine area and over time would warp the valves from it. That is why alot of the shields were missing over the years.I had a 125 that would do the same thing and the valves were the cause.

#22 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 38,491 Thanks
  • 30,611 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted January 26, 2011 - 11:54 AM

I put brand new aftermarket valves in this engine just a few weeks before Chuck came & picked it up. I'm afraid the aftermarket valves may be junk. They were either Stens or Primeline valves.

#23 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

Chuck_050382

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 32
  • 275 Thanks
  • 1,498 posts
  • Location: Mt. Vernon, IL

Posted January 26, 2011 - 12:18 PM

I am going to have to agree with Dan on a valve problem. The fords had a problem with valves on that style tractor.The shields on the motor hold alot of heat in the engine area and over time would warp the valves from it. That is why alot of the shields were missing over the years.I had a 125 that would do the same thing and the valves were the cause.


This intrigues me. The way the muffler is on this it definitely gets hot under the hood, but I dont think it's much hotter than under the hood for the 145 that has the stock muffler.

I was going to build a heat sheild around the muffler. I might have more a reason to now.

#24 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

Chuck_050382

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 32
  • 275 Thanks
  • 1,498 posts
  • Location: Mt. Vernon, IL

Posted January 27, 2011 - 08:45 AM

Snuck out last night and pulled the head. The gasket is sitting on the block still in the pictures.
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image
These last two are close ups of a area that to me looks like the head gasket might be faulty.
Posted Image
Posted Image

#25 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 38,491 Thanks
  • 30,611 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted January 27, 2011 - 09:30 AM

Still hard to tell by the pics, but the exhaust valve appears not to be burned. It does look like there may be some white carbon on the sealing face of the valve??? Doesn't take much of a speck of carbon stuck to the valve to dump your compression. The head gasket may be the culprit. Do be sure the valve still has proper clearance. The aftermarket valves may seat softer, so clearance could have been taken up???

#26 massey driver ONLINE  

massey driver

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 75
  • 1,262 Thanks
  • 1,512 posts
  • Location: Mainitoba Canada

Posted January 27, 2011 - 09:41 AM

Just by looking at the pics,it kinda looks almost like the exhaust valve is distorted.Hard to tell by pics.The gasket looks questionable as well.Looking at pics and seeing first hand is two different views.Do a quick inspection of the head with a straigth edge see if it's distorted[warped] check the top of the block the same way. Larry

#27 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 38,491 Thanks
  • 30,611 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted January 27, 2011 - 09:45 AM

Like Larry, I still wonder about that valve. Not so sure I should have used aftermarket. Might be prudent to get an OE valve.

#28 Chuck_050382 OFFLINE  

Chuck_050382

    Tractorholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 32
  • 275 Thanks
  • 1,498 posts
  • Location: Mt. Vernon, IL

Posted January 27, 2011 - 09:48 AM

What all needs to be replaced along with a valve? I've never replaced valves. I was going to be ordering some parts today.

#29 olcowhand ONLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 38,491 Thanks
  • 30,611 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted January 27, 2011 - 09:58 AM

What all needs to be replaced along with a valve? I've never replaced valves. I was going to be ordering some parts today.


You may want to get new "keepers" along with the valve. They slip onto the end of the valve stem to secure the spring & cap.

#30 Gtractor ONLINE  

Gtractor

    The Tractor Hoarder

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 782
  • 8,504 Thanks
  • 4,653 posts
  • Location: Chillicothe, MO

Posted January 27, 2011 - 11:46 AM

I'm a little late on this thread but were the head bolts still tight when you took them out? I have a Techumseh HH120 [I know - wrong brand] that used to have "automatic compression release head bolts"!!! Once it quit running and cooled to the touch, I could take the head bolts out with my fingers.




Top