Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Lgt 195


  • Please log in to reply
13 replies to this topic

#1 gitrdun OFFLINE  

gitrdun
  • Member
  • Member No: 8739
  • 63 Thanks
  • 42 posts

Posted May 23, 2014 - 10:21 PM

 started working on the running 195 that i just acquired a couple weeks ago. guess what, it wouldn't even crank over. checked the battery and it only read about 7 volts, so i swapped it out and still nothing. i pulled the plug off the back of the ignition switch and pushed it back on and now the starter turns the motor over but still won;t start. 

 the wiring harness is a combination of spliced,disconnected, cut off and added on to wires.  for now i guess i will just bypass and jumper things to get it started again. i have the repair manual and wiring diagram to build a new harness later on.

 this tractor is rusted and corroded worse than any tractor i have ever had. it came from southern Wisconsin. they must use a lot of road salt in the winter and this one must have been a plow tractor all it's life.

 i'll try to get pics up this weekend and see if i make any progress on making it run again. i was hoping this would be my mowing tractor this summer.

 

thanks

keith


  • A.C.T., Arti, TomLGT195 and 1 other said thanks

#2 A.C.T. OFFLINE  

A.C.T.

    Another Classic Tractor

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 11085
  • 2,363 Thanks
  • 2,496 posts
  • Location: Dalbo Minnesota

Posted May 23, 2014 - 10:31 PM

You should see the cars! LOL


  • Bill 76 said thank you

#3 Bill 76 ONLINE  

Bill 76
  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 49625
  • 1,646 Thanks
  • 1,060 posts
  • Location: 5miles west of Milwaukee Wisconsin

Posted May 24, 2014 - 01:22 AM

Ya some of the counties around here dump a lotta salt on the roads---if a snow flake is seen blowing around the trucks are rolling,scraping the blade on pavement and dumping salt.Some times more salt on the roads then snow.On a quite night you can hear your truck rusting


  • A.C.T. said thank you

#4 A.C.T. OFFLINE  

A.C.T.

    Another Classic Tractor

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 11085
  • 2,363 Thanks
  • 2,496 posts
  • Location: Dalbo Minnesota

Posted May 24, 2014 - 01:34 AM

Oh yea!129103058391233954.jpg


  • Arti and Bill 76 have said thanks

#5 JDBrian OFFLINE  

JDBrian

    Super Moderator

  • Super Moderator
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 2507
  • 9,574 Thanks
  • 14,136 posts
  • Location: Hubley, Nova Scotia - Canada

Posted May 24, 2014 - 06:34 AM

 Sounds like you need to redo the entire wiring harness. I did that on the 317 I restored last year. It was in a similar state so I just started over. We use a lot of salt up here. It's hard on cars, trucks or tractors. A lot of people spray their tractors with fluid film every fall to help. A bit up the road from me there is a JD318 that is used to plow snow and spread salt. Rustiest tractor I've ever seen.  It is totally rust covered. I don't think there is any paint left on the fender deck at all. It's still running and working but it is gradually rusting away. 



#6 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

TomLGT195
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 29432
  • 2,807 Thanks
  • 2,208 posts
  • Location: Southern New Hampshire

Posted May 24, 2014 - 07:41 AM

That's too bad about harness. Is the harness in 2nd tractor in good shape? Maybe a transplant would be quicker and give you time to make a new harness later. Just a thought. Good luck either way.
Tom

#7 gitrdun OFFLINE  

gitrdun
  • Member
  • Member No: 8739
  • 63 Thanks
  • 42 posts

Posted May 24, 2014 - 10:24 PM

 didn't get to do much today on the 195 because the brakes went out on my jeep  and i kissed the car in front of me after breakfast.

 i did manage to start the motor but it only runs when i squirt gas in the carb. does the fuel pump have to be primed or should it pick up with the motor running? i am going to pull the fender pan and clean the tank and replace the lines and filter. would i be better off with the mechanical pump or should i switch to a little Facet electric pump?

 

 

thanks

keith



#8 Bmerf ONLINE  

Bmerf

    Patina Farmer / Rust Collector

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 9846
  • 1,708 Thanks
  • 1,445 posts
  • Location: benton harbor, mi

Posted May 24, 2014 - 10:53 PM

Fuel pump will self prime if working. Tank is plastic.(Nice no rust) Clean the shutoff valve under the fender, behind the tire.(left side from seat) Badly plugged on mine, removed and pushed a piece of wire up though the line to the tank to clear. Flush with fresh gas. Change fuel lines and filter.(don't need a leaking line) Pull the pump apart and check the rubber diaphram and check valves. A good cleaning of all the junk hopefully will get the pump in working order. The pump on mine was very corroded, but diaphram had no splits and I got lucky with cleaning the check valves. I was not able to locate a rebuild kit for the pump. My pump doesn't seam to push much fuel, but is adequate. Good luck.


Edited by Bmerf, May 24, 2014 - 10:55 PM.


#9 gitrdun OFFLINE  

gitrdun
  • Member
  • Member No: 8739
  • 63 Thanks
  • 42 posts

Posted June 03, 2014 - 10:53 PM

DSCN0646_292.JPG DSCN0645_291.JPG DSCN0644_290.JPG DSCN0643_289.JPG DSCN0642_288.JPG                                                                                          

 had to use the other tractor to pull the 195 out of the corner because it won't start. it feels a lot larger than the ingersoll 4020 when you sit on both of them. here are a few pics of what i'm starting with.

 going to pull the gas tank and replace lines and filters, along with a trip to the car wash to get rid of an inch of crud. all of the electrical switches on the dash are froze up with rust except for the key switch. brake pedal is also frozen in place.

 how do you remove the throttle lever where it goes thru the dash? flat plastic knob has 2 holes in back but doesn't seem to have a screw at the bottom of the hole.

 going to bend up some new floor boards and weld to the seat pan along with patching one rust hole. will probably just paint with spray cans to get some paint on it and wait until winter to do a better job.

 

thanks

keith


  • Texas Deere and Horse, KennyP, HowardsMF155 and 2 others have said thanks

#10 gitrdun OFFLINE  

gitrdun
  • Member
  • Member No: 8739
  • 63 Thanks
  • 42 posts

Posted June 06, 2014 - 11:33 AM

 went to the car wash and blasted most of the grease and dirt off of the frame, rear end and motor. actually looks pretty good considering its age. fender pan looks a lot worse now that the rust fell off.

i need to locate motor mounts because the block is sitting on the bolts holding the rubber mounts to the frame. i tried a local New Holland dealer and was told they are no longer available. i would prefer to go with new but will look on ebay and see what's available. had to use a ratchet strap to get brake pedal to move, still stiff but at least it moves. hydraulic lift is still frozen in place. need a new spring for foot control hydrostat to keep it centered.

 this is a slow process just finding all the things that need a little attention, but that's the fun part. next is wiring, then making it run and hopefully it moves just fine.

 does anyone know another source for motor mounts, if so, i would appreciate your input.

 

thanks

keith



#11 Rock farmer ONLINE  

Rock farmer
  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Member No: 10759
  • 1,119 Thanks
  • 1,177 posts
  • Location: York Maine

Posted June 06, 2014 - 07:12 PM

For motor mounts. Try McMaster Carr.
Their called vibration isolation mounts.
About ten bucks each for my Case 444.

Joe
  • TomLGT195 said thank you

#12 gitrdun OFFLINE  

gitrdun
  • Member
  • Member No: 8739
  • 63 Thanks
  • 42 posts

Posted June 09, 2014 - 09:48 PM

ordered the mounts from Mcmaster Carr today and should have them tomorrow. went with mounts rated at 45 pounds each and cost about $11.00 each. motor should weigh in around 140 pounds with 4 mounts totaling 180 pound rating. hope this is close.

 

thanks

keith


  • HowardsMF155 said thank you

#13 gitrdun OFFLINE  

gitrdun
  • Member
  • Member No: 8739
  • 63 Thanks
  • 42 posts

Posted June 16, 2014 - 10:49 PM

 put the new motor mounts on tonight and i'm not sure they'll work. they seem a little soft when you push on the motor side to side. see what happens when i start it up.

 i need to find some kind of headlights to mount in the fenders and was looking at the LED assy. on ebay. they have 27 watt (9 led) and 48 watt (16 led) that will fit in the fender. does anyone have any experience with either of these? wiring is next on the list of repairs along with fuel.

 

thanks

keith


  • TomLGT195 said thank you

#14 gitrdun OFFLINE  

gitrdun
  • Member
  • Member No: 8739
  • 63 Thanks
  • 42 posts

Posted June 28, 2014 - 10:41 AM

 still working on the lift assembly on the 195. both mower deck lift shafts are frozen in the pivot blocks. had to torch the hydraulic cylinder mounting pins out of the frame to remove the cylinder. wiring is still a work in progress while i collect parts. have ordered headlights, switches, relays and fuse holder to complete harness. going to bend up a battery tray and hold down bracket.

 found a pair of wheel weights for the rear, 162 pound each combine weights for 15 inch wheels. now i need to find some ag tires for it and i am ready for plow day.

 

thanks

keith


  • Rock farmer and TomLGT195 have said thanks




Top