Jump to content

Nominations for Tractor of the Month
Garden Tractors and Parts on eBay



Photo
- - - - -

Help me choose an air compressor for sandblasting and shop.


  • Please log in to reply
307 replies to this topic

#46 mikebramel OFFLINE  

mikebramel

    Ron Paul

  • Senior Member
  • Member No: 82
  • 176 Thanks
  • 1,009 posts
  • Location: Milwaukee

Posted February 06, 2011 - 09:24 PM

I think you would want the 1750RPM motors, they have more torque. You can then use a more equally sized pulley with more belt surface.

I think those Eaton ones are spun at 750-800rpm

#47 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,589 Thanks
  • 29,831 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted February 06, 2011 - 09:37 PM

Yes, you want a 1750rpm motor.

#48 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted February 06, 2011 - 10:02 PM

George,
You can even run a 1130-1150 RPM motor on this. The slower motor have heavier windings in them and last a life time. Most of the bigger compressors have unloader valves that don't close until a certain RPM is reached. Atleast all the ones I have worked do.

#49 caseguy OFFLINE  

caseguy

    Connoisseur of Rusty Junk

  • Senior Member
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 906
  • 1,624 Thanks
  • 5,600 posts
  • Location: Edinburg, PA

Posted February 06, 2011 - 10:38 PM

George, I'm gonna check at work to see if I can get you some specs for your machine, maybe even a parts list. The company that we deal with for our air compressors is an authorized IR service center and they may be able to access IR's technical publications for me. Cross your fingers!

#50 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

NUTNDUN

    Lost in Cyber Space

  • Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3
  • 10,266 Thanks
  • 15,618 posts
  • Location: Pennsylvania

Posted February 07, 2011 - 05:45 AM

George, I'm gonna check at work to see if I can get you some specs for your machine, maybe even a parts list. The company that we deal with for our air compressors is an authorized IR service center and they may be able to access IR's technical publications for me. Cross your fingers!


That would be great. I appreciate all the help guys. We gotta decide how we want to power it. It has an adjustable unloader on it now at least from what I could tell from the one label. It says something about turning one way to set a pressure and to turn the other way for continuous duty. I know if we go with electric the pressure switch needs to be replaced but from what I seen they are around $40 which isn't bad. If I go with a gas engine I would have to get a different style unloader valve with the throttle control and some of those were around the same price as the pressure switch.

#51 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted February 07, 2011 - 01:33 PM

George, here is the link to I/R publications, Hope this helps

Ingersoll Rand Industrial Technologies On-line Publications

Found a parts manual link there,,

http://www.irtechpub...sor/SCD-749.PDF

Edited by Texas Deere and Horse, February 07, 2011 - 01:40 PM.
added parts manual link


#52 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

NUTNDUN

    Lost in Cyber Space

  • Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3
  • 10,266 Thanks
  • 15,618 posts
  • Location: Pennsylvania

Posted February 07, 2011 - 02:04 PM

George, here is the link to I/R publications, Hope this helps

Ingersoll Rand Industrial Technologies On-line Publications

Found a parts manual link there,,

http://www.irtechpub...sor/SCD-749.PDF


Thanks Brian, I did find those manuals this morning when I was doing some searching. They don't have anything though on the pump I have. I am guessing the TS7 pump is probably pretty close but I am not sure.

#53 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

NUTNDUN

    Lost in Cyber Space

  • Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3
  • 10,266 Thanks
  • 15,618 posts
  • Location: Pennsylvania

Posted February 07, 2011 - 02:57 PM

Well I don't know if it was so much of a good buy or not. I am waiting to hear more information but I called the local Ingersoll Rand Service/Parts center and I gave her the model number and the serial number. So far she was able to tell me that the pump is from the 1965 - 1970. Alot of their records were destroyed when hurricane Agnus hit the area so she is going to do some research for me. At least I have an antique just like the garden tractors. With it being that old I might have to see about getting the tank inspected if the pump is worth running.

#54 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

Texas Deere and Horse

    RED Wild Hogs, Horses & Deeres

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1435
  • 14,464 Thanks
  • 15,392 posts
  • Location: East of San Antonio Texas

Posted February 07, 2011 - 03:03 PM

old is not bad with industrial compressors, they last forever if tey have been maintained. Don't let the age scare you.

#55 olcowhand OFFLINE  

olcowhand

    Red Tractor Nut & Diesel Addict

  • Staff Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Sponsor
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 20
  • 35,589 Thanks
  • 29,831 posts
  • Location: South Central Kentucky

Posted February 07, 2011 - 03:17 PM

old is not bad with industrial compressors, they last forever if tey have been maintained. Don't let the age scare you.


I agree....I would have paid that price in a heartbeat long as good compressor, even if tank was bad!

#56 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

NUTNDUN

    Lost in Cyber Space

  • Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3
  • 10,266 Thanks
  • 15,618 posts
  • Location: Pennsylvania

Posted February 07, 2011 - 04:17 PM

I will hopefully get a call from the lady from the compressor shop tomorrow with some more info. I think we got an alright deal. I am pretty sure the tank is good on it but I might still have it tested just to be safe.

I am just really curious to find out the actual specs on the pump.

#57 WQDL753 OFFLINE  

WQDL753

    Bolensholic

  • Senior Member
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 1407
  • 59 Thanks
  • 301 posts
  • Location: Beaver, PA

Posted February 08, 2011 - 02:43 AM

With that kinda age on it, I would be a little bit concerned about the tank. It don't matter where it was kept or how well maintained the inside gets exposed to moisture.
And you don't want to know what kind of devistasion that can cause if it ruptures.
When I did pressure checks back in the day, the item being tested was in a tank of water surrounded by a steel cage, and we were still nervous.
Congrats on the find though, the pump alone is worth more than you payed. :thumbs:

#58 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

NUTNDUN

    Lost in Cyber Space

  • Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3
  • 10,266 Thanks
  • 15,618 posts
  • Location: Pennsylvania

Posted February 08, 2011 - 05:06 AM

We are definitely going to get the tank tested. I am going to try calling around today to get prices on the ultrasonic testing. Member caseguy was able to get a manual for the pump which covers a couple models during that time frame. It doesn't give me specs but it is a tremendous help with everything else. Going by what is in the manual it should be at least 30cfm. Depending on how much it is to have the tank tested we might be better to just get a new tank. We can decide that once I can get some prices on the testing.

#59 Big John OFFLINE  

Big John

    Member

  • Member
  • Member No: 1450
  • 21 Thanks
  • 94 posts
  • Location: Tolono, IL.

Posted February 08, 2011 - 12:26 PM

I have a rotary converter for my machine tools that makes 3ph. motors produce full power. It's not
cheap ($815) but it will start a 10 hp motor. To use one on a compressor, U must start the converter
with the pressure switch & use a time delay relay to start the compressor after the convertor is up
to speed. My compressor is a C&H industrial 5hp 16cfm. It was 3ph but I put on a 1ph motor for less
than 1/2 what a converter would cost. Static converters are a box of capacitors & although they are
much cheaper, the motor will only produce 2/3 of it's rated hp.

#60 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

NUTNDUN

    Lost in Cyber Space

  • Admin
  • Staff
  • -GTt Supporter-
  • Contributor
  • Member No: 3
  • 10,266 Thanks
  • 15,618 posts
  • Location: Pennsylvania

Posted February 09, 2011 - 07:54 PM

I am going to try and gather plugs and fittings I might need and do a hydro pressure test on the tank this weekend. I have decided I will set it up for the compressor to kick in at 95psi and kick out at 145psi. I don't need 175psi and it will save wear and tear on the pump. Especially if what I am hearing so far that the pump should be good for 30cfm at 100psi.

If I am going to run it at the above mentioned settings I guess the proper test pressure is supposed to be 1.4 times the max working pressure but I want to try and test it for 1.5 times the max working pressure. I just gotta get something to use to pump the last little bit of water pressure in to the tank. I thought about using the pressure washer but that is 2900psi and it wouldn't take much and you wouldn't have much control unless I rig up a regulator valve for the water flow and slowly turn it in till it gets to pressure. Some have mentioned a grease gun would work or a better option would be a boiler fill pump.




Top