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Help me choose an air compressor for sandblasting and shop.


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#241 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2011 - 09:55 AM

Hey George, Last night I lost my DSL, I was trying to tell you that you have the wrong bushing. The bushing you should be using should have the same size keyway that the shaft has, if not you need to machine a key, that is the correct size. If it was me, I would contact the place you bought the bushing, and tell they sent the wrong one.

#242 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2011 - 10:14 AM

It is the same size key, just not the same height. The keyway on the motor is 5/16" and the key provided with the motor is 5/16" W x 5/16" H x 2 1/2" L. The key provided with the motor won't work with the bushing because it is too thick, it is the right width. The key that came with the bushing is 5/16" W x 1/4" H x 2" L. Which fits almost perfect, it is just a couple thousandths too short to where when the pulley is tightened up it isn't clamping on to the key enough to hold it in place. The bushing pulls tight on the motor shaft and the key is tight side to side which is the most important, just the thickness of it is a hair too short.

Hopefully that made sense. I know I didn't explain it the best in chat last night.

#243 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2011 - 10:19 AM

If I have to I can use the key that came with the motor and grind it down to work.

#244 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2011 - 10:23 AM

Doesn't the tapered adapter have a set key to lock down on the key? Mine all do.

#245 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2011 - 10:32 AM

It is the same size key, just not the same height. The keyway on the motor is 5/16" and the key provided with the motor is 5/16" W x 5/16" H x 2 1/2" L. The key provided with the motor won't work with the bushing because it is too thick, it is the right width. The key that came with the bushing is 5/16" W x 1/4" H x 2" L. Which fits almost perfect, it is just a couple thousandths too short to where when the pulley is tightened up it isn't clamping on to the key enough to hold it in place. The bushing pulls tight on the motor shaft and the key is tight side to side which is the most important, just the thickness of it is a hair too short.

Hopefully that made sense. I know I didn't explain it the best in chat last night.


George,
Do you have some place to buy some key stock, if so get a piece 5/16 X 5/16 and cut it to the proper length. You want the key to be tight in the bushing. I have had keys work their way out while running. Most anyplace, even hardware stores carry key stock. Thats my thoughts.

#246 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2011 - 10:40 AM

Doesn't the tapered adapter have a set key to lock down on the key? Mine all do.


Some of the TAPER LOCK brand does not use a set screw bscause of how they set inside the pulley. There's no was to tighten it down after you install them on the shaft, They don't have a shoulder or flange on them. Thats why I don't like TAPER LOCK style bushings and pulleys.

#247 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2011 - 10:48 AM

I have the key from the motor that would work but I would have to grind about a 1/16 off of it. Right now the way it is with me putting dimples on each end of the key it can't come out. It would have been nice if they had a set screw on there but there isn't any on the bushing.

#248 RailmanB110 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2011 - 12:13 PM

I wouldn't worry too much about the key being a tad loose. The taper lock will lock down tightly to the shaft. The key is just extra insurance, & mosy likely not come under load. The dimples you added should be fine.

Personally I also much prefer the clamp down (single clamp screw) style collars vs set screw for the same reasons. They offer full contact pressure around the full circumferance. Set screws only put pressure at the screw, & at a point on the opposite side.
Modern hydrolock tooling uses the same concept for the same reasons, along with keeping things more concentric.
Joe

#249 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2011 - 01:03 PM

I think I know the type without the set screw. Mine have a faceplate on the taper, with the set crew in the face.

#250 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2011 - 01:12 PM

I think George has a QD style bushing .

#251 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2011 - 01:38 PM

I think George has a QD style bushing .


Yes it is a QD style. It has two bolts to pull the bushing and pulley together. Speaking of which I need to get them pulled together closer, there is about a 1/4" gap between then and they are only 1/4" bolts but it won't pull together any tighter without breaking a bolt again. I am going to clean the surfaces again and take emery cloth and evenly go around the bushing.

#252 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2011 - 01:59 PM

George ,The bushing won't go up tight against the pulley usually. It's normal to have a gap, they are machined so that they will tighten down on a slightly undersized shaft. if you don't have the bushing on the shaft all the way, it's ok. Just make sure after you re-tighten the bushing, the pulley is lined up with the other pulley.

#253 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2011 - 10:24 AM

Well the good news is it works and the compressor sounds great. The bad news is we had to bypass the overload relay because it would keep tripping it. The overload relay can be set up to 32 amps and the motor on continuous run is pulling 32 amp. So I guess I will have to see about getting a higher rated overload relay for the box. The specs on grainger's site for the starter box says it will do a 10hp motor on 220 single phase.

#254 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2011 - 10:27 AM

I should add that it was another fellow that finalized the wiring, he apparently works with this stuff all the time, he looked in the box and was like ya this goes here, that goes here and it worked. Which we wired the overload relay at first and it would turn the motor on and shut off within 5 seconds. Hit the reset button and it would come back on. We bypassed the overload relay so it could run long enough to get an amp reading.

#255 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 05, 2011 - 10:59 AM

George, Thats good ,it ran. It's not uncommon to have to resize overloads. You did a good job and I for one am very excited for you. GREAT JOB !!!!




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