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Help me choose an air compressor for sandblasting and shop.


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#226 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2011 - 06:16 PM

Looks right from all the way over here. Verify one more time on the schematic and turn it on.

The only thing I see that may or may not be "OK" is if this qualifies as a sub panel. Over here, our Elec Code doesn't allow for Gnd & Neutral to be in the same buss bar... It's nuts, because they're tied at the same point at the panel, it may be an "Ease of inspection" thing.

Someone smarter than I would have to tell you if this falls under that rule or if it even applies out where you are.

#227 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2011 - 07:12 PM

First of all, I'm not smarter than MH81! The reason for that is that the ground should only ever carry current in a ground fault situation. If it is tied to the neutral at some point away from the main panel, it then becomes a current carrier and is part of the live circuit. The neutral comes into the building with the service. Ground is acquired at the location and is for safety only.

#228 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2011 - 07:35 PM

First of all, I'm not smarter than MH81!


I finally got that in writing!!!! Waaahaaahaaa (evil laugh) my plan WORKED!!!

And yes you are.

#229 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2011 - 08:29 PM

Here is a pic of progress tonight.

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#230 bhts OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2011 - 08:43 PM

Looking good should be chugging along soon.

#231 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2011 - 08:44 PM

First of all, I'm not smarter than MH81! The reason for that is that the ground should only ever carry current in a ground fault situation. If it is tied to the neutral at some point away from the main panel, it then becomes a current carrier and is part of the live circuit. The neutral comes into the building with the service. Ground is acquired at the location and is for safety only.


First I am not going to pass judgement on who is dum or dummer.... :bigrofl: j/k you guys asked for it LOL

Second I should be alright with the 6ga common being on the ground buss bar since it isn't going to complete any circuits right?

#232 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2011 - 08:45 PM

First I am not going to pass judgement on who is dum or dummer.... :bigrofl: j/k you guys asked for it LOL


BTW, I am sure I will pay for that comment sooner or later :D

#233 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2011 - 08:51 PM

BTW, I am sure I will pay for that comment sooner or later :D


I hate to point it out, but isnt it "dumb and dumber"? lol

#234 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2011 - 08:52 PM

I hate to point it out, but isnt it "dumb and dumber"? lol


Sssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

#235 wvbuzzmaster OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2011 - 09:01 PM

Sssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh


be bewy qwiet, im hunting wabbits lol

#236 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2011 - 08:08 AM

BTW, I am sure I will pay for that comment sooner or later :D


:bigrofl:

Actually George, I think you're just getting even. I don't have my "poke" scorecard handy tho...

#237 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2011 - 07:24 PM

Well the pulley and bushing got here from surplus center, and the belts also showed up. I got the pulley and bushing put on and snapped one of the bolts trying to get it tight enough to clamp the key also. So I pulled it back apart and got the broken bolt out and cleaned up the inside of the pulley and the outside of the bushing and put it back together and still couldn't get it tight enough to hold the key in place. So I used a trick we used to use when I was an assembler building plastic blow mold machines and took my punch and made two dimples in the keyway on each end of the key to keep it from sliding in or out.

I was going to put the small piece of sealtite on to run the last of the wiring to the pressure switch and here it had a crack in it so we are going to return that tomorrow.

#238 caseguy OFFLINE  

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Posted March 03, 2011 - 09:21 PM

...I should be alright with the 6ga common being on the ground buss bar since it isn't going to complete any circuits right?


As long as it's landed on the ground bus at the other end as well. It doesn't matter (electrically) which wire you use, as long as it is functioning as a dedicated ground. (I said electrically, because in industry and according to code, the wire must either be bare, green, or be wrapped in green tape if it serving as the ground) In a situation like you have where you're using the neutral wire for the control side of things, you should have 4 wires run to the starter panel. 2 hot legs, a neutral, and a ground. Remember that the ground is a safety feature for you and your equipment. If you didn't need the 110V circuit to run the coil of the starter, then you could get away with just the ground. But the same wire should not be used to serve both functions. I know that a lot of people use them interchangeably, but I do not, and will not, and do not recommend that others do either. That's my advice.

#239 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2011 - 05:01 AM

As long as it's landed on the ground bus at the other end as well. It doesn't matter (electrically) which wire you use, as long as it is functioning as a dedicated ground. (I said electrically, because in industry and according to code, the wire must either be bare, green, or be wrapped in green tape if it serving as the ground) In a situation like you have where you're using the neutral wire for the control side of things, you should have 4 wires run to the starter panel. 2 hot legs, a neutral, and a ground. Remember that the ground is a safety feature for you and your equipment. If you didn't need the 110V circuit to run the coil of the starter, then you could get away with just the ground. But the same wire should not be used to serve both functions. I know that a lot of people use them interchangeably, but I do not, and will not, and do not recommend that others do either. That's my advice.


Thanks Steve, that all makes sense.

I think I have green tape I can put on the 6ga neutral that I have going in to the grounding block. I shouldn't need it for anything other then to go to that grounding block. The motor only has the two hot legs and bare ground going to it. The 3 position switch has a red wire going to the L1 terminal of the contactor to the switch and the black wire comes out to finish the circuit with whatever other switches there might be. In my case it is the pressure switch and low oil level switch. As far as I can tell going by the diagram and from other pictures that I have seen this can be two wires, one going out and one coming back to complete the circuit.

I am hoping the guy that was supposed to come over to inspect my wiring makes it out today. He didn't make it out last night. I'll end up getting impatient and throwing the power to it LOL

#240 thecoater OFFLINE  

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Posted March 04, 2011 - 09:48 AM

worse case is your wrong and the breaker trips




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