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#211 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 08:49 AM

I just did some order checking and the pulley and bushing will be here Thursday. Grainger will have the pressure switch and manifold tomorrow. Only thing left to get is the belts. Out of one of my friends and my other friend's dad we should be able to get everything wired up.

#212 thecoater OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 01:05 PM

your over thinking the pressure switch if you want I will take better pics for you and email them -we basically have the same thing

#213 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 01:09 PM

your over thinking the pressure switch if you want I will take better pics for you and email them -we basically have the same thing


I know after it is finished I am going to be smacking my forehead saying duh. I have an idea of how the pressure switch and low oil level switch will go, the biggest part I don't know about is how it all comes together with the switches on the motor starter and which terminals they would go to at the bottom of the relay.

#214 thecoater OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 01:22 PM

I know after it is finished I am going to be smacking my forehead saying duh. I have an idea of how the pressure switch and low oil level switch will go, the biggest part I don't know about is how it all comes together with the switches on the motor starter and which terminals they would go to at the bottom of the relay.


all I can say is its magic LOL wire it up like in my picture if you need better photos just say the word -I know a pic is worth a 1000 words

edit --I will get you the pics around dinner time

edited again

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Edited by thecoater, March 01, 2011 - 01:56 PM.


#215 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 01:53 PM

George, All the safety switches do is interrupt the circuit when either pressure is reached or oil level drops. They go in the starter switch wiring in series.

If you have your starts switch circut figured out then its just a matter of putting the safty switches in series.

Hope that helps.

#216 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 04:01 PM

You should see all the smoke pouring out of my ears from all the thinking I have been doing LOL. I think I got it figured out though. The loose red wire in the starter box from the 3 position selector switch will tie in to L1 at the top of the contactor. The loose black line is the one I use to run the series through the pressure switch and oil level switch and when it comes back up into the motor starter box it will be hooked up to 3/14 on the relay. I am correct with my jumper diagram where L2 gets looped back to L3 and then the motor is run off of T1 and T3.

#217 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 04:04 PM

Should I add a distribution block to the motor starter box for the ground and common or will I be alright just running the ground to the motor and pressure switch and not ground the cabinet of the motor starter?

#218 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 04:14 PM

Should I add a distribution block to the motor starter box for the ground and common or will I be alright just running the ground to the motor and pressure switch and not ground the cabinet of the motor starter?


As far as Grounds go, you can just run the ground through the box and twist a pig tale with a wire nut off the ground and put it to a ground lug or to a mounting bolt. Earth grounds are usually uninsulated and basically they keep you from being shocked if a problem occurs.

I hope this makes sense.

#219 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 04:19 PM

I am also assuming I would have been fine using the 6-2(red/black/ground) wire I originally had but returned for 6-3(red/black/common/ground) because I thought I needed the common/neutral for the 110v relay circuit but as far as I can tell it isn't needed.

#220 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 04:22 PM

I am also assuming I would have been fine using the 6-2(red/black/ground) wire I originally had but returned for 6-3(red/black/common/ground) because I thought I needed the common/neutral for the 110v relay circuit but as far as I can tell it isn't needed.


After I posted that I guess it would still be better to use the 6ga common and ground together for the grounding of everything since the 6ga may help carry the load better if needed?

#221 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 04:24 PM

Most of the time your ground wire can be a smaller diameter wire size. Your common should be the same size as the 2 hot legs.

You could have pulled a smaller seperate wire for ground leg with the other 6-2 you ran.

#222 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 04:30 PM

Both the 6-2 and 6-3 have the earth ground. I guess what I was trying to say is I really don't need the common wire but since it is there I can use it for a heavier gauge ground.

#223 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 04:32 PM

Yes, That will work fine. Just make sure you have a ground hooked to each peice, you don't want to find out the hard way what no ground can do to you !!

#224 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 07:40 PM

Ok here is an updated picture I took with the phone. Let me know if I am on the right track.

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#225 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 02, 2011 - 06:03 PM

Nobody wants to comment on my wiring? Lol.




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