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#196 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2011 - 07:33 PM

I need to mention also that we need to reverse the motor. The standard rotation for the motor is CCW looking at the end opposite the output shaft. We need the output shaft to spin CCW looking at the output shaft end.

#197 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2011 - 07:38 PM

Ok I think I have the motor part figured out. According to the wiring diagram for the motor attached to this post I need to have both the hot legs (red,black) and the bare ground going into the motor and it will be the incoming black going to the blue & black and the incoming red going to the yellow & red?

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#198 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2011 - 08:05 PM

Ok I think I have the motor part figured out. According to the wiring diagram for the motor attached to this post I need to have both the hot legs (red,black) and the bare ground going into the motor and it will be the incoming black going to the blue & black and the incoming red going to the yellow & red?


That's what it seems to be saying, is there any more info under the motor cover plate regarding cw/ccw?

#199 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2011 - 08:20 PM

That's what it seems to be saying, is there any more info under the motor cover plate regarding cw/ccw?


Just the one sticker that I took a picture of on the side of the motor.

#200 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2011 - 08:44 PM

Ok here is what I got so far with my diagram and what my little brain was able to hopefully figure out correctly with the wiring diagram. Wiring the oil level switch, pressure switch and the relay are the parts I am going to have a really hard time with.

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#201 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2011 - 08:49 PM

I just made a quick update because I forgot to include the incoming common and ground. The Orange/Gold color wire is the ground. I drew a line through it by the motor starter to show it being grounded there and then passing through with the wiring to the pressure switch.

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#202 RailmanB110 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2011 - 08:56 PM

You need to wire nut 3 wires together inside motor junction box to make each line.
#1 blue + #5 black + sealtite lead, to form LINE A
#4 yellow + #8 red + sealtite lead, to form LINE B
Then:
LINE A goes to l1 at bottom of starter.
LINE B goes to l2 at bottom of starter.
You only need two of the 3 starter lines for single phase.

#203 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2011 - 09:10 PM

The picture of the diagram for the starter box didn't turn out the best but it shows the L1/T1 being looped up around to come back down the L3/T3 and then to the motor for single phase.

Does it matter which pole the red or black go in at the top of the starter box? I would have to pull the cover back off of the electrical panel to see which side which one is on, although I don't think it really matters since they are both hot legs?

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#204 RailmanB110 OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2011 - 09:39 PM

It doesn't matter which leg is matched to the sealtite leads at the top of the starter, or electric panel. They both are the same, only 180' out of phase on the current phasing.

I don't usually mess with starters on single phase stuff. All of my big stuff is 3 PH, & it's is actually simpler. On 3ph, all you do to reverse is switch 2 lead wires.

It looks like you have the single phase jumper figured out, but to be honest, I can't say for sure. Just be real sure your looking at the diagram right. The problem with this kind of stuff is that most electricians are very afraid to offer advice due to liabilities. It also seems to be SOP just to say: Hire an electrician!
I did go to Eatons web site, & they do have technical drawings for what your single ph application is.

#205 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2011 - 09:42 PM

Hire an electrician!


That thought has already crossed my mind. Which I will probably do. I will get all of the wiring ran through the sealtite and call one to come out. Even if it would take them an hour at $60 an hour it would be worth it.

#206 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2011 - 10:01 PM

I haven't chimed in on the wiring, as my contactors are a little different and I don't want to tell you anything wrong. Your motor is a bit different too with reversing. Mine almost all have 2 extra wires in the motor to be tied together...which depending on direction desired, then the line connections.

#207 MH81 ONLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2011 - 10:06 PM

George, if you are unsure of yourself, be safe & do the Yellow Pages thing.
I believe you can do this... I'm sure this is within your capabilities, but if You don't think so, don't try it.
Nervous people sweat + nervous people make more mistakes + saltwater is a very good conductor = News @ 11.

#208 thecoater OFFLINE  

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Posted February 28, 2011 - 11:22 PM

it may only confuse you but I figured it may help aswell
this is single phase wiring in my box- the only difference is brand I can take better pics tomorrow if it will help save you some cash


the blue wire you see running up the back was from when this was 3 phase that wire was removed and a ground was put in its place-the picture is from when I bought it my brother was talking me through it on the phone and I was taking pictures and checking the poo twice LOL

actually a ground bar and 2 grounds were -not sure if you have ever felt the zap from a 10 hp motor I have and ever since I ground everything LOL

tools 006.jpg

#209 WQDL753 OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 02:49 AM

Looks like you've got enugh input for the wiring, so I just wanted to remind you about the plumbing.

1- drip leggs, and plan for the unexpeced future expanstion.

2- use large enugh pipe to handle more than the maximum cfm of the biggest toy you wish you had...

3- minimum of 25 feet of pipe between the tank and the first regulator/filter/point of use. I didn't need this much to get where I needed to be, so I made a tight
zigzag pattern to get that distance, making it easy to put a small fan pulling air across the pipe like a radiator/poor mans air chiller. It works great! (let me know
if you want a pic and I'll get one when I don't need a boat to get to the barn)

4- Plumb the air intake out of your work space. Outside or in the attic, it don't matter. This will help your filters last longer, and you'd be surprised how much of the noise comes from it sucking air through the filter.

#210 NUTNDUN OFFLINE  

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Posted March 01, 2011 - 06:35 AM

The problem is I feel confident on the wiring going through the starter to the motor. The problem I am having is the wiring for the switch/relay. I am not sure how to tie the pressure switch and the start/stop switch together. I am not going to worry about wiring in the low oil switch for now as I can just keep an eye on the oil level.

I am going to call a couple friends and see if there are any electricians in the friendship circle LOL




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