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Ht20 (2087) Kubota Repower

large frame ht20 kubota diesel

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#1 MCAFJO OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2014 - 02:17 PM

Hey guys !

 

Now that I have my Sundstrand Hydro repaired and working good, I feel it is time to bring the motor up-to-date !!!

 

I found a nice little Kubota D662-e, triple diesel engine, that might be a good canditate to be dropped in there...

 

Does any of you have advices on fitment or off-the-shelf parts to help out with this transplant (flywheel adapters, PTO pulleys, engine mounts...) ???

 

I also would like to know your thoughts about that kind of repower : Should I stick to the K523, and rebuild it, or go forward and make this tractor a real beast ???

 

Thank you for your opinions !

 

I also attached a picture of the front rollers I added to the 54" mower deck, to prevent it from diggind in the ground on uneven ground...

Attached Thumbnails

  • 20140510_104702.jpg
  • D662-1.jpg
  • 20140514_072434.jpg

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#2 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2014 - 02:39 PM

Welcome to GTtalk MFAFJO!  I'm moving this post to the diesel repower forum.  

  As to the question to repower or not, I'd say go diesel!  But if your tractor runs the hydro off the flywheel as I figure, then you'll need to drive the hydro off the water pump end of the engine for proper rotation unless your hydro rotation can be reversed.   I'll add more when time allows.  If you decide to rebuild your gas engine & stay with it, then you can start a new thread about that in the Bolens forum.


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#3 boyscout862 ONLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2014 - 03:31 PM

Your HT20 looks real good. The repower would be cool but may be alot more work and cost than rebuilding the Kohler. Either way post pics and Good Luck, Rick
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#4 TomLGT195 OFFLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2014 - 05:08 PM

Nice job on the wheels on the deck. A lot of things to weigh on the repower,but biggest thing IMO would be cost an time. Definitely would be a beast with diesel though. Of course cool factor too .
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#5 olcowhand ONLINE  

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Posted May 14, 2014 - 05:15 PM

I have done 2 diesel repowers, and yes, it is a lot of work, head scratching, and takes some time.  BUT, in the end it is all worth it.  You already have the most expensive item needed, the diesel engine, and complete with radiator.  So at this point, it's more a matter of time, or more importantly, if you have enough of it.

  The driveshaft adapters aren't that hard to make IF you have access to a lathe, or a friend who does.


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#6 MCAFJO OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2014 - 12:09 PM

Thanks guys !

 

I bought the running Kubota diesel for 300$ this morning !!! So it looks like the main issue won't be the $$$ !!!

 

I'll most likely do it this winter, as I need the HT to mow my lawn... From the little I know in hydraulics, I could probably reverse the hydro by switching the pump stages back and forwth, but I feel more confident in connecting the hydro on the water pump side anyways, as this tiny end of the crankshaft would be weaker than flywheel side. IMO the PTO is jerking and stressing the CS a lot more than hydro is...

 

So far, my main concern is where to put the battery and fuel tank, in order to keep good airflow to the radiator... I was thinking about using a smaller fuel tank, and relocating the battery unduer the seat somehow. Your thoughts ???


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#7 Texas Deere and Horse OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2014 - 01:34 PM

Most Hydro GT's are set up just that way with the PTO on the Flywheel end and the hydro driven off the water pump end. You can locate the battery and fuel tank anywhere you like as the cables can run anywhere and the engine uses a fuel pump.


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#8 twostep ONLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2014 - 02:37 PM

Wow, good price on that engine and fine looking HT20. So is the original engine shot?



#9 Cvans ONLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2014 - 02:49 PM

Keep in mind that your fuel consumption is going to be a LOT less so your tank can be smaller. You should have no concerns about running the drive shaft off of the front of the engine. As long as everything is balanced with no binding it will work just fine. I've installed diesels in two larger Bolens tractors and have been very happy with the results. Without seeing the tractor in person I would guess your going to have to lengthen the frame and the hood in order to accommodate the engine and the radiator. That being said there is nothing like the feeling of having completed a successful diesel conversion. :thumbs:

You have a really nice looking tractor there and if you do decide to do the conversion we will try and help you as much as possible. Here's something to maybe help you get started.

  http://gardentractor...ersion-started/


Edited by Cvans, May 15, 2014 - 04:19 PM.

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#10 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2014 - 10:10 PM

Welcome to GTtalk MFAFJO!  I'm moving this post to the diesel repower forum.  

  As to the question to repower or not, I'd say go diesel!  But if your tractor runs the hydro off the flywheel as I figure, then you'll need to drive the hydro off the water pump end of the engine for proper rotation unless your hydro rotation can be reversed.   I'll add more when time allows.  If you decide to rebuild your gas engine & stay with it, then you can start a new thread about that in the Bolens forum.

If the HT 20 is set up like my HT23, the drive shaft runs off the back of the engine, so it won't be as much work to set it up as far as that goes.

 

Smitth


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#11 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted May 15, 2014 - 10:12 PM

You may not need to lengthen the frame.

 

Another member of the forum--Old Buzzard???? posted pics on how Bolens made a factory diesel application by squeezing a 3 cylinder MItsubishi K3 engine into a large frame by making an extension plate for the battery and fuel tank and lengthening the hood. 


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#12 MCAFJO OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2014 - 07:13 AM

Wow, good price on that engine and fine looking HT20. So is the original engine shot?

 

 

Bah, not so sure, but the previous owner did screw me with the transaxle already, and I realised by cleaning it off that he had unplugged the engine oil pressure switch because it turns on at idle... I guess it's got some wear on the bearings  or an oil pump issue.

 

I'm gonna diagnose it anyways, as I need it to run until fall shows up ( It's not even warming up yet here, so it's got a long way to go !!!)

 

We'll see !



#13 MCAFJO OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2014 - 07:47 AM

You may not need to lengthen the frame.

 

Another member of the forum--Old Buzzard???? posted pics on how Bolens made a factory diesel application by squeezing a 3 cylinder MItsubishi K3 engine into a large frame by making an extension plate for the battery and fuel tank and lengthening the hood. 

 

 

Yeah, that's an interesting way to go ...

 

I was even thinking about mounting the rad almost hrizontaly, over the engine with an electric fan and louvers in the hood. The d662 is about 1/2" shorter than the k532, flywheel to front output shaft, so other than the rad, I don't see room being an issue.

I like it when things look original !

 

I had the Kubota running last night, it ran GREAT ! Sounds really nice too...

 

Francis



#14 Utah Smitty OFFLINE  

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Posted May 16, 2014 - 09:38 AM

Bah, not so sure, but the previous owner did screw me with the transaxle already, and I realised by cleaning it off that he had unplugged the engine oil pressure switch because it turns on at idle... I guess it's got some wear on the bearings  or an oil pump issue.

 

I'm gonna diagnose it anyways, as I need it to run until fall shows up ( It's not even warming up yet here, so it's got a long way to go !!!)

 

We'll see !

Sounds like he was a Low-Information Owner.  Hopefully the engine is okay.

 

You can adjust the oil pressure on these engines.  It should be 45-50 psi at 2,000 rpm IIRC. There's a lock screw on the right side of the engine (as you're sitting in the tractor) at the very bottom. It's kind of hard to get to, but you tighten it in to raise the oil pressure.

 

I bought a 2" oil pressure guage that read in 5 psi increments, and plumbed it in to the port for the idiot light. If you want to keep the light, just use a "T" connection. You'll need to get a tach--one of the slickest ones I've seen is digital, and costs under $20 on eBay. It isn't hard-wired into the engine--to use it you put a piece of reflective tape (supplied-or even masking tape or a white paint spot) on the drive line or some other rotating part of the engine, and then point the tach at it to read the rpms.

 

Here's a link:

 

http://www.ebay.com/...fee9830&vxp=mtr

 

The engine repair manual gives you the procedure.  You can download it from this website in the Manuals Section.

 

Regards,

 

Smitty


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#15 OldBuzzard OFFLINE  

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Posted May 20, 2014 - 06:47 PM

... So far, my main concern is where to put the battery and fuel tank, in order to keep good airflow to the radiator... I was thinking about using a smaller fuel tank, and relocating the battery unduer the seat somehow. Your thoughts ???

 

Like Utah Smitty said, when Bolens built the HDT1000 instead of lengthening the frame, they just used apiece of plate to help support the battery and fuel tank, and lengthened the hood.  Here's a pic of the plate.

 

100_4777.JPG
 
As  for airflow to the radiator, Bolens didn't seem to be too concerned with that as there is very little clearance, maybe 1", between the battery/fuel tank and the radiator:
 
100_4414.JPG
 
 
The fuel tank is 3.4 gal.

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